ARIZONA 

SKETCHE 

BY  J  A-MUNK 


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Digitized  by  the  Internet  Archive 

in  2007  with  funding  from 

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http://www.archive.org/details/arizonasketchesOOmunkrich 


ARIZONA     SKETCHES 


nature's  masonry,  grand  canon  of  ARIZONA. 


ARIZONA 
SKETCHES 


BY  JOSEPH  A  MUNK,  M.D 


ILLUSTRATED 


THE    GRAFTON    PRESS 
PUBLISHERS  NEW     YORK 


1 


{Ci  OJ 


Copyright  igoj  by 
THE  GRAFTON   PRESS 


CONTENTS 


Chapter  page 

I.  A  ROMANTIC  LAND 11 

II.  MY  FIRST  TRIP  TO  ARIZONA 27 

III.  THE  OPEN  RANGE 39 

IV.  RANCH  LIFE 55 

V.  THE  ROUND-UP *  .  65 

VI.  RANCH  HAPPENINGS .78 

VII.  A  MODEL  RANCH    .         .         : 90 

VIII.  SOME  DESERT  PLANTS 102 

IX.  HOOKER'S  HOT  SPRINGS 121 

X.  CANON  ECHOES 130 

XL  THE  METEORITE  MOUNTAIN 153 

XII.  THE  CLIFF  DWELLERS              167 

XIIL  THE  MOQUI  INDIANS 181 

XIV.  A  FINE  CLIMATE '  .         .        .212 


ILLUSTRATIONS 

PAGE 

Nature's  Masonry,  Grand  Canon  of  Arizona,  Frontispiece.  . 

San  Xavier  Church 10 

Sculptured   Butte,   Canon   de  Chelly 13 

Petrified  Tree 13 

C  as  A  Grande  Ruin 17 

Soil  Erosion  in  the  Petrified  Forest 17 

An  Arizona  Bouquet 21 

An  Arizona  Landscape 21 

Apache  Pass 26 

PiNALENO    Spring 26 

Apache  Indians  Traveling  on  the  San  Carlos  Road 29 

Fort  Bowie .  29 

PiNALENO    Ranch 35 

The  Siesta 35 

Cattle  Feeding  on  the  Open  Range 41 

Leaving  the  Water  Trough 41 

An  Arizona  Pastoral  Scene 45 

An  Open  Range  Pasture 45 

In  a  Quandary 49 

A  "Stag  Camp" 54 

PiNALENO  Ranch  Herd 54 

Ranch  Cabin 57 

Cowboy  Sport , . .  . 57 

Roping  a  Maverick 64 

The  Round-up •  • 64 

In  Close  Quarters » 67 

A  Cattle  Drive .,._,,-  .^ 67 

Loading  Cattle,  Willcox , 71 

WiLLCox  Shipping  Pens 71 

Guarding  the  Herd 75 

Kicking  up  a  Dust 75 

Dave  Drew 79 

Dos  Cabezas  Mountains 79 

Shopping  at  San  Carlos S3 

(Vii) 


viii  ILLUSTRATIONS 

PAGE 

Among  the  Hills 83 

A  Sierra  Bonita  Ranch  Herd 91 

Col.  Hooker  and  His  Dogs 91 

Lake  on  the  Sierra  Bonita  Ranch 95 

The  Gila  River 95 

A  Bunch  of  Hooker  Horses 99 

A  Study  in  Faces 99 

WiLLcox,  Arizona 103 

On  the  Verdi  River 103 

Yucca 107 

A  Mescal  Field 107 

Spanish  Bayonet ., Ill 

Saguaro Ill 

Palo  Verde 115 

Coconino  Forest 115 

Ocotillo 119 

Mesquite  Forest  near  Tucson 119 

A  Hot  Water  Draught 123 

Hooker's   Hot  Springs 123 

The  Morning  Bath 127 

A  Quiet  Nook 127 

On  the  Grand  View  Trail 131 

In  the  Coconino  Forest 131 

Grand  View  Hotel 135 

Thurber's  Stage  Camp 135 

Sunset  Mountain 139 

Looking  into  the  Grand  Canon 139 

Captain  John  Hance  and  His  Cabin 145 

Aravaipa  Canon 145 

Western  Slope  of  the  Meteorite  Mountain 152 

Eastern  Slope  of  the  Meteorite  Mountain 152 

"The  Crater,"   Meteorite   Mountain 155 

White  Sand  on  the  Meteorite  Mountain 155 

Casa  Blanca,  Ca^on  de  Chelly 159 

VoLz's  Ranch,  Ca^on  Diablo 163 

Cliff  Houses,  Canon  del  Muerto 163 

Cliff  Ruins,  Cai^on  del  Muerto 169 

Canon  del  Muerto 169 

Exploring  the  Cai^on 173 

On  the  Rim  Trail 173 

Our  Camp  in  Canon  de  Chelly 177 

Chin  Lee,  CaIJon  de  Chelly 177 


ILLUSTRATIONS  ix 

PAGE 

MoQUi  Girl,   Oraibi 183 

Water  Carrier,  Wal'-pi 183 

Wal'-pi 187 

Ream's  Caxon  School 187 

Mesa  Trail  Worn  by  Moccasined  Feet 191 

MoQUi  Cornfield,  Wal'-pi  in  the  Distance 191 

Notice  on  Snake  Kiva,  Requesting  Visitors  to  Behave 195 

Snake  Priests,  Oraibi 195 

The  Snake  Dance  at  Oraibi 199 

Washing  Ceremony,  after  the  Snake  Dance 199 

Taking  the  Emetic 203 

MoQui  Girls  Prepared  to  Sprinkle  the  Sacred  Meal 203 

Tom  Polaki 207 

On  the  Moqui  Trail 207 

San  Francisco  Mountain 213 

Camping  on  the  Colorado  Plateau 213 

Depot  Hotel,  Yuma 217 

Lava  Beds 217 

Navajo  Shepherd 221 

A  Navajo  Courier 221 

WHINNER  OF  THE   FoOT  RaCE 225 

Street  Scene  in  Old  Tucson 225 


SAN  XAVIER  CHURCH. 


ARIZONA    SKETCHES 


CHAPTER  I 


A    ROMANTIC    LAND 


A  STRANGER  on  first  entering  Arizona  is  impressed 
with  the  newness  and  wildness  that  surrounds  him. 
-  Indeed,  the  change  is  so  great  that  it  seems  Hke  going 
to  sleep  and  waking  up  in  a  new  world.  Everything  that  he 
sees  is  different  from  the  familiar  objects  of  his  home,  and 
he  is  filled  with  wonder  and  amazement  at  the  many  curious 
things  that  are  brought  to  his  notice.  Judging  the  country 
by  what  is  common  back  east,  the  average  man  is  disappointed 
and  prejudiced  against  what  he  sees  ;  but,  estimated  on  its 
merits,  it  is  found  to  be  a  land  of  many  attractions  and  great 
possibilities. 

A  hasty  trip  through  the  country  by  rail  gives  no  adequate 
idea  of  its  intrinsic  value,  as  such  a  limited  view  only  affords 
a  superficial  glimpse  of  what  should  be  leisurely  and  care- 
fully examined  to  be  properly  understood  or  appreciated.  At 
the  first  glance  it  presents  the  appearance  of  a  desert,  but  to 
one  who  is  acquainted  with  its  peculiarities  it  is  by  no  means 
desolate.  It  furnishes  a  strong  contrast  to  the  rolling  wood- 
lands of  the  far  east,  and  to  the  boundless  prairies  of  the 


12  ARIZONA  SKETCHES 

middle  west  ;  and,  though  it  may  never  develop  on  the  plan 
of  the  older  states,  like  California,  it  has  an  individuality  and 
charm  of  its  own  ;  and  its  endowment  of  natural  wealth  and 
beauty  requires  no  borrowing  from  neighbors  to  give  it  char- 
acter or  success. 

It  has  grand  scenery,  a  salubrious  climate,  productive  soil, 
rich  mineral  deposits  and  rare  archaeological  remains.  It 
also  has  a  diversified  fauna  and  flora.  The  peccary,  Gila 
monster,  tarantula,  centipede,  scorpion  and  horned  toad  are 
specimens  of  its  strange  animal  life  ;  and,  the  numerous 
species  of  cacti,  yucca,  maguey,  palo  verde  and  mistletoe  are 
samples  of  its  curious  vegetation.  It  is,  indeed,  the  scien- 
tist's Paradise  where  much  valuable  material  can  be  found  to 
enrich  almost  every  branch  of  natural  science. 

Hitherto  its  growth  has  been  greatly  retarded  by  its  re- 
mote position  in  Uncle  Sam's  domain ;  but,  with  the  com- 
paratively recent  advent  of  the  railroad,  the  influx  of  capital 
and  population,  and  the  suppression  of  the  once  dreaded  and 
troublesome  Apache,  a  new  life  has  been  awakened  that  is 
destined  to  redeem  the  country  from  its  ancient  lethargy  and 
make  it  a  land  of  promise  to  many  home  seekers  and  set- 
tlers. 

When  the  Spaniards  under  Coronado  first  entered  the  land 
more  than  three  hundred  and  fifty  years  ago  in  search  of  the 
seven  cities  of  Cibola,  they  found  upon  the  desert  sufficient 
evidence  of  an  extinct  race  to  prove  that  the  land  was  once 
densely  populated  by  an  agricultural  and  prosperous  people. 
When  or  how  the  inhabitants  disappeared  is  unknown  and 
may  never  be  known.  It  is  even  in  doubt  who  they  were, 
but,  presumably,  they  were  of  the  Aztec  or  Toltec  race ;  or, 
perhaps,  of  some  civiUzation  even  more  remote. 

The  Pueblo  Indians  are  supposed  to  be  their  descendants, 
but,  if  so,  they  were,  when  first  found,  as  ignorant  of  their 


SCULPTURED    BUTTE,    CAXON   DE    CHELLY. 


PETRIFIED    TREE. 


A  ROMANTIC  LAND  15 

ancestors  as  they  were  of  their  discoverers.  When  questioned 
as  to  the  past  they  could  give  no  intelUgent  answer  as  to  their 
antecedents,  but  claimed  that  what  the  white  man  saw  was 
the  work  of  Montezuma.  All  that  is  known  of  this  ancient 
people  is  what  the  ruins  show,  as  they  left  no  written  record 
or  even  tradition  of  their  life,  unless  it  be  some  inscriptions 
consisting  of  various  hieroglyphics  and  pictographs  that  are 
found  painted  upon  the  rocks,  which  undoubtedly  have  a 
meaning,  but  for  lack  of  interpretation  remain  a  sealed  book. 
The  deep  mystery  in  which  they  are  shrouded  makes  their 
history  all  the  more  interesting  and  gives  unlimited  scope 
for  speculation. 

Arizona  is  a  land  that  is  full  of  history  as  well  as  mystery 
and  invites  investigation.  It  has  a  fascination  that  every 
one  feels  who  crosses  its  border.  Paradoxical  as  it  may  seem 
it  is  both  the  oldest  and  newest  portion  of  our  country — the 
oldest  in  ancient  occupation  and  civilization  and  the  nev,^est 
in  modern  progress.  In  natural  wonders  it  boasts  of  the 
Grand  Canon  of  Arizona,  the  painted  desert,  petrified  forest, 
meteorite  mountain,  natural  bridge,  Montezuma's  well  and 
many  other  marvels  of  nature.  There  are  also  ruins  galore, 
the  cave  and  cliff  dwellings,  crumbled  pueblos,  extensive 
acequias,  painted  rocks,  the  casa  grande  and  old  Spanish  mis- 
sions. Anyone  who  is  in  search  of  the  old  and  curious,  need 
not  go  to  foreign  lands,  but  can  find  right  here  at  home  in 
Arizona  and  the  southwest,  a  greater  number  and  variety  of 
curiosities  than  can  be  found  in  the  same  space  anywhere 
else  upon  the  globe. 

Arizona  is  a  land  of  strong  contrasts  and  constant  surprises, 
where  unusual  conditions  prevail  and  the  unexpected  frequently 
happens. 

From  the  high  Colorado  plateau  of  northern  Arizona  the 
land  slopes  toward  the  southwest  to  the  Gulf  of  California. 


16  ARIZONA  SKETCHES 

Across  this  long  slope  of  several  hundred  miles  in  width, 
numerous  mountain  ranges  stretch  from  the  northwest  to  the 
southeast.  Through  the  middle  of  the  Territory  from  east  to 
west,  flows  the  Gila  river  to  its  confluence  with  the  Colorado. 
This  stream  marks  the  dividing  line  between  the  mountains 
which  descend  from  the  north  and  those  that  extend  south, 
which  increase  in  altitude  and  extent  until  they  culminate  in 
the  grand  Sierra  Madres  of  Mexico. 

The  traveler  in  passing  through  the  country  never  gets 
entirely  out  of  the  sight  of  mountains.  They  rise  up  all  about 
him  and  bound  the  horizon  near  and  far  in  every  direction. 
In  riding  along  he  always  seems  to  be  approaching  some  dis- 
tant mountain  barrier  that  ever  recedes  before  him  as  he 
advances.  He  is  never  clear  of  the  encirchng  mountains 
for,  as  often  as  he  passes  out  of  one  inclosure  through  a  gap 
in  the  mountains,  he  finds  himself  hemmed  in  again  by  a 
new  one.  The  peculiarity  of  always  being  in  the  midst  of 
mountains  and  yet  never  completely  surrounded,  is  due  to 
an  arrangement  of  dovetailing  or  overlapping  in  their 
formation.  His  winding  way  leads  him  across  barren 
wastes,  through  fertile  valleys,  among  rolling  hills  and  into 
sheltered  parks,  which  combine  an  endless  variety  of  at- 
tractive scenery. 

An  Arizona  landscape,  though  mostly  of  a  desert  type,  is 
yet  full  of  interest  to  the  lover  of  nature.  It  presents  a 
strangely  fascinating  view,  that  once  seen,  will  never  be  for- 
gotten. It  stirs  a  rapture  in  the  soul  that  only  nature  can 
inspire. 

Looking  out  from  some  commanding  eminence,  a  wide 
spreading  and  diversified  landscape  is  presented  to  view. 
Though  hard  and  rugged,  the  picture,  as  seen  at  a  distance, 
looks  soft  and  smooth  and  its  details  of  form  and  color  make 
an  absorbing  study. 


^...1^;  i^ 


■  ••  ^^' 


CASA   GRAXDE    RUIN. 


SOIL  EROSION  IN  THE  PETRIFIED  FOREST. 


A  ROMANTIC  LAND  19 

The  eye  is  quick  to  note  the  different  hues  that  appear  in 
the  field  of  vision  and  readily  selects  five  predominating 
colors,  namely,  gray,  green,  brown,  purple  and  blue,  which 
mingle  harmoniously  in  various  combinations  with  almost 
every  other  color  that  is  known.  The  most  brilliant  lights, 
sombre  shadows,  exquisite  tints  and  delicate  tones  are  seen 
which,  if  put  on  canvas  and  judged  by  the  ordinary,  would 
be  pronounced  exaggerated  and  impossible  by  those  unfamil- 
iar with  the  original. 

The  prevailing  color  is  gray,  made  by  the  dry  grass  and 
sandy  soil,  and  extends  in  every  direction  to  the  limit  of  vision. 
The  gramma  grass  of  the  arid  region  grows  quickly  and  turns 
gray  instead  of  brown,  as  grasses  usually  do  when  they 
mature.  It  gives  to  the  landscape  a  subdued  and  quiet  color, 
which  is  pleasing  to  the  eye  and  makes  the  ideal  background 
in  a  picture. 

Into  this  warp  of  gray  is  woven  a  woof  of  green,  spreading 
in  irregular  patches  in  all  directions.  It  is  made  by  the 
chaparral,  which  is  composed  of  a  variety  of  desert  plants 
that  are  native  to  the  soil  and  can  live  on  very  little  water. 
It  consists  of  live  oak,  pinon,  mesquite,  desert  willow,  grease 
wood,  sage  brush,  palmilla,  maguey,  yucca  and  cacti  and  is 
mostly  evergreen. 

The  admixture  of  gray  and  green  prevails  throughout  the 
year  except  during  the  summer  rainy  season,  when,  if  the 
rains  are  abundant,  the  gray  disappears  almost  entirely,  and 
the  young  grass  springs  up  as  by  magic,  covering  the  whole 
country  with  a  carpet  of  living  green.  In  the  midst  of  the 
billowy  grass  myriads  of  wild  flowers  bloom,  and  stand  single 
or  shoulder  to  shoulder  in  masses  of  solid  color  by  the 
acre. 

Upon  the  far  mountains  is  seen  the  sombre  brown  in  the 
bare   rocks.     The  whole   region  was  at   one  time  violently 


20  ARIZONA  SKETCHES 

disturbed  by  seismic  force  and  the  glow  of  its  quenched  fires 
has  even  yet  scarcely  faded  away.  Large  masses  of  igneous 
rocks  and  broad  streams  of  vitrified  lava  bear  mute  testimony 
of  the  change,  when,  by  some  mighty  subterranean  force,  the 
tumultuous  sea  was  rolled  back  from  its  pristme  bed  and,  in 
its  stead,  lofty  mountains  hfted  their  bald  heads  above  the 
surrounding  desolation,  and  stand  to-day  as  they  have  stood 
in  massive  grandeur  ever  since  the  ancient  days  of  their 
upheaval.  Rugged  and  bleak  they  tower  high,  or  take  the 
form  of  pillar,  spire  and  dome,  in  some  seemingly  well-con- 
structed edifice  erected  by  the  hand  of  man.  But  the  moun- 
tains are  not  all  barren.  Vast  areas  of  fertile  soil  flank  the 
bare  rocks  where  vegetation  has  taken  root,  and  large  fields 
of  forage  and  extensive  forests  of  oak  and  pine  add  value  and 
beauty  to  the  land. 

The  atmosphere  is  a  striking  feature  of  the  country  that  is 
as  pleasing  to  the  eye  as  it  is  invigorating  to  the  body.  Over 
all  the  landscape  hangs  a  veil  of  soft,  purple  haze  that  is  be- 
witching. It  gives  to  the  scene  a  mysterious,  subtle  some- 
thing that  is  exquisite  and  holds  the  senses  in  a  magic  spell 
of  enchantment. 

Distance  also  is  deceptive  and  cannot  be  estimated  as 
under  other  skies.  The  far-off  mountains  are  brought  near 
and* made  to  glow  in  a  halo  of  mellow  light.  Manifold  ocular 
illusions  appear  in  the  mirage  and  deceive  the  uninitiated.  An 
indefinable  dreamy  something  steals  over  the  senses  and  en- 
thralls the  soul. 

Arching  heaven's  high  dome  is  a  sky  of  intense  blue  that 
looks  so  wonderfully  clear  and  deep  that  even  far-famed  Italy 
cannot  surpass  it.  The  nights  are  invariably  clear  and  the 
moon  and  stars  appear  unusually  bright.  The  air  is  so  pure 
that  the  stars  seem  to  be  advanced  in  magnitude  and  can  be 
seen  quite  low  down  upon  the  horizon. 


AX  ARIZOXA  BOUQUET. 


AN  ARIZONA  LANDSCAPE. 


^ 


A  ROMANTIC  LAND  23 

The  changing  Hghts  that  flash  in  the  sky  transform  both 
the  sunrise  and  sunset  into  marvels  of  beauty.  In  the  mellow 
afterglow  of  the  sunset,  on  the  western  sky,  stream  long 
banners  of  light,  and  fleecy  clouds  of  gold  melt  away  and 
fade  in  the  twilight. 

At  midday  in  the  hazy  distance,  moving  slowly  down  the 
valley,  can  be  seen  spiral  columns  of  dust  that  resemble 
pillars  of  smoke.  They  ascend  perpendicularly,  incline  like 
Pisa's  leaning  tower,  or  are  bent  at  various  angles,  but  always 
retaining  the  columnar  form.  They  rise  to  great  heights 
and  vanish  in  space.  These  spectral  forms  are  caused  by 
small  local  whirlwinds  when  the  air  is  otherwise  calm,  and  are, 
apparently,  without  purpose,  unless  they  are  intended  merely 
to  amuse  the  casual  observer. 

A  cloudy  day  is  rare  and  does  not  necessarily  signify  rain. 
Usually  the  clouds  are  of  the  cumulus  variety  and  roll 
leisurely  by  in  billowy  masses.  Being  in  a  droughty  land 
the  clouds  always  attract  attention  viewed  either  from  an 
artistic  or  utilitarian  standpoint.  When  out  on  parade  they 
float  lazily  across  the  sky,  casting  their  moving  shadows  be- 
low. The  figures  resemble  a  mammoth  pattern  of  crazy 
patchwork  in  a  state  of  evolution  spread  out  for  inspection. 

The  impression  that  is  made  while  looking  out  upon  such 
a  scene  is  that  of  deep  silence.  Everything  is  hushed  and 
still ;  but,  by  listening  attentively,  the  number  of  faint  sounds 
that  reach  the  ear  in  an  undertone  is  surprising.  The  soft 
soughing  of  the  wind  in  the  trees  ;  the  gentle  rustle  of  the 
grass  as  it  is  swayed  by  the  passing  breeze  ;  the  musical 
ripple  of  water  as  it  gurgles  from  the  spring ;  the  piping  of 
the  quail  as  it  calls  to  its  mate ;  the  twitter  of  little  birds 
flitting  from  bush  to  bough  ;  the  chirp  of  the  cricket  and 
drone  of  the  beetle  are  among  the  sounds  that  are  heard  and 
fall  soothingly  upon  the  ear. 


24  ARIZONA  SKETCHES 

The  trees  growing  upon  the  hillside  bear  a  striking  resem- 
blance to  an  old  orchard  and  are  a  reminder  of  home  where 
in  childhood  the  hand  delighted  to  pluck  luscious  fruit  from 
drooping  boughs.  A  walk  among  the  trees  makes  it  easy  to 
imagine  that  you  are  in  some  such  familiar  but  neglected 
haunt,  and  instinctively  you  look  about  expecting  to  see  the 
old  house  that  was  once  called  home  and  hear  the  welcome 
voice  and  footfall  of  cherished  memory.  It  is  no  little  dis- 
appointment to  be  roused  from  such  a  reverie  to  find  the 
resemblance  only  a  delusion  and  the  spot  deserted.  Forsaken 
as  'it  has  been  for  many  years  by  the  native  savage  Indians 
and  prowling  wild  beasts,  the  land  waits  in  silence  and  patience 
the  coming  of  the  husbandman. 


APACHE    PASS. 


PINALENO    SPRING. 


MY  FIRST  TRIP  TO  ARIZONA 


CHAPTER  II 


MY  FIRST  TRIP  TO  ARIZONA 


I  RECALL  with  vivid  distinctness  my  first  trip  to  Ari- 
zona and  introduction  to  ranch  Hfe  in  the  spring  of 
1884.  The  experience  made  a  deep  impression  and 
has  led  me  to  repeat  the  visit  many  times  since  then,  with 
increased  interest  and  pleasure. 

During  the  previous  year  my  brother  located  a  cattle  ranch 
for  us  in  Railroad  Pass  in  southeastern  Arizona.  The  gap 
is  one  of  a  series  of  natural  depressions  in  a  succession  of 
mountain  chains  on  the  thirty-second  parallel  route,  all  the 
way  from  New  Orleans  to  San  Francisco  over  a  distance  of 
nearly  twenty-five  hundred  miles.  The  Southern  Pacific 
Railroad  is  built  upon  this  route  and  has  the  easiest  grade  of 
any  transcontinental  line. 

Railroad  Pass  is  a  wide  break  between  two  mountain  ranges 
and  is  a  fine  grazing  section.  It  is  handsomely  bounded  and 
presents  a  magnificent  view.  To  the  north  are  the  Pinaleno 
mountains,  with  towering  Mt.  Graham  in  their  midst,  that 
are  nearly  eleven  thousand  feet  high  and  lie  dark  in  the 
shadows  of  their  dense  pine  forests.  Far  to  the  south  rise 
the  rugged  Chiricahuas,  and  near  by  stands  bald  Dos  Cabezas, 
whose  giant  double  head  of  granite  can  be  seen  as  a  conspic- 
uous landmark  over  a  wide  scope  of  country.     The  distance 


28  ARIZONA  SKETCHES 

across  the  Pass  as  the  crow  flies  is,  perhaps,  fifty  miles. 
Beyond  these  peaks  other  mountains  rise  in  majestic  grandeur 
and  bound  the  horizon  in  every  direction. 

At  the  time  that  the  ranch  was  located  the  Pass  country 
was  considered  uninhabitable  because  of  the  scarcity  of  water 
and  the  presence  of  hostile  Indians.  No  permanent  spring 
nor  stream  of  water  was  known  to  exist  in  that  whole  region, 
but  fine  gramma  grass  grew  everywhere.  Its  suitability  as 
a  cattle  range  was  recognized  and  caused  it  to  be  thoroughly 
prospected  for  water,  which  resulted  in  the  discovery  of 
several  hidden  springs.  All  of  the  springs  found,  but  one, 
were  insignificant  and  either  soon  went  dry  or  fluctuated 
with  the  seasons  ;  but  the  big  spring,  known  as  Pinaleno, 
was  worth  finding,  and  flows  a  constant  stream  of  pure,  soft 
water  that  fills  a  four-inch  iron  pipe. 

When  the  spring  was  discovered  not  a  drop  of  water  was 
visible  upon  the  surface,  and  a  patch  of  willows  was  the  only 
indication  of  concealed  moisture.  By  sinking  a  shallow  well 
only  a  few  feet  deep  among  the  willows,  water  was  struck  as 
it  flowed  through  coarse  gravel  over  a  buried  ledge  of  rock 
that  forced  the  water  up  nearly  to  the  surface  only  to  sink 
again  in  the  sand  without  being  seen.  A  ditch  was  dug  to 
the  well  from  below  and  an  iron  pipe  laid  in  the  trench,  through 
which  the  water  is  conducted  into  a  reservoir  that  supplies 
the  water  troughs. 

Again,  when  the  ranch  was  opened  the  Indians  were  bad 
in  the  vicinity  and  had  been  actively  hostile  for  some  time. 
The  ranch  is  on  a  part  of  the  old  Chiricahua  reservation  that 
was  once  the  home  and  hunting  grounds  of  the  tribe  of 
Chiricahua  Apaches,  the  most  bold  and  warlike  of  all  the 
southwest  Indians.  Cochise  was  their  greatest  warrior,  but 
he  was  only  one  among  many  able  Apache  chieftains.  He 
was  at  one  time  the  friend  of  the  white  man,  but  treachery 


APACHE  INDIANS  TRAVELING   ON  THE  SAN   CARLOS  ROAD. 


FORT    BOWIE. 


MY  FIRST  TRIP  TO  ARIZONA  31 

aroused  his  hatred  and  caused  him  to  seek  revenge  on  every 
white  man  that  crossed  his  path. 

His  favorite  haunt  was  Apache  Pass,  a  convenient  spot 
that  was  favorable  for  concealment,  where  he  lay  in  wait  for 
weary  travelers  who  passed  that  way  in  search  of  water  and 
a  pleasant  camp  ground.  If  attacked  by  a  superior  force,  as 
sometimes  happened,  he  invariably  retreated  across  the  Sul- 
phur Spring  valley  into  his  stronghold  in  the  Dragoon 
mountains. 

Because  of  the  many  atrocities  that  were  committed  by 
the  Indians,  white  men  were  afraid  to  go  into  that  country 
to  settle.  Even  as  late  as  in  the  early  eighties  when  that 
prince  of  rascals,  the  wily  Geronimo,  made  his  bloody  raids 
through  southern  Arizona,  the  men  who  did  venture  in  and 
located  ranch  and  mining  claims,  lived  in  daily  peril  of  their 
lives  which,  in  not  a  few  instances,  were  paid  as  a  forfeit  to 
their  daring. 

The  Butterfield  stage  and  all  other  overland  travel  to  Cali- 
fornia by  the  southern  route  before  the  railroads  were  built, 
went  through  Apache  Pass.  Although  it  was  the  worst 
Indian  infested  section  in  the  southwest,  travelers  chose  that 
dangerous  route  in  preference  to  any  other  for  the  sake  of 
the  water  that  they  knew  could  always  be  found  there. 

The  reputation  of  Apache  Pass,  finally  became  so  notori- 
ously bad  because  of  the  many  murders  committed  that  the 
Government,  late  in  the  sixties,  built  and  garrisoned  Ft.  Bowie 
for  the  protection  of  travelers  and  settlers.  The  troops 
stationed  at  the  post  endured  much  hardship  and  fought 
many  bloody  battles  before  the  Indians  were  conquered. 
Many  soldiers  were  killed  and  buried  in  a  little  graveyard 
near  the  fort.  When  the  fort  was  abandoned  a  few  years 
ago,  their  bodies  were  disinterred  and  removed  to  the  Na- 
tional cemetery  at  Washington. 


32  ARIZONA  SKETCHES 

Railroad  Pass  is  naturally  a  better  wagon  road  than  Apache 
Pass,  but  is  without  water.  It  was  named  by  Lieut.  J.  G. 
Parke  in  1855  while  engaged  in  surveying  for  the  Pacific 
Railroad,  because  of  its  easy  grade  and  facility  for  railroad 
construction. 

I  timed  my  visit  to  correspond  with  the  arrival  at  Bowie 
station  on  the  Southern  Pacific  Railroad,  of  a  consignment  of 
ranch  goods  that  had  been  shipped  from  St.  Louis.  I  was 
met  at  the  depot  by  the  ranch  force,  who  immediately  pro- 
ceeded to  initiate  me  as  a  tenderfoot.  I  inquired  of  one 
of  the  cowboys  how  far  it  was  to  a  near-by  mountain.  He 
gave  a  quieii  sabe  shrug  of  the  shoulder  and  answered 
me  in  Yankee  fashion  by  asking  how  far  I  thought  it  was. 
Estimating  the  distance  as  in  a  prairie  country  I  replied, 
"  Oh,  about  a  mile."  He  laughed  and  said  that  the  mountain 
was  fully  five  miles  distant  by  actual  measurement.  I  had 
unwittingly  taken  my  first  lesson  in  plainscraft  and  pru- 
dently refrained  thereafter  from  making  another  sure  guess. 

The  deception  was  due  to  the  rarefied  atmosphere,  which 
is  peculiar  to  the  arid  region.  It  not  only  deceives  the  eye 
as  to  distance,  but  also  as  to  motion.  If  the  eye  is  steadily 
fixed  upon  some  distant  inanimate  object,  it  seems  to  move 
in  the  tremulous  light  as  if  possessed  of  life,  and  it  is  not 
always  easy  to  be  convinced  to  the  contrary.  However,  by 
putting  the  object  under  inspection  in  line  with  some  further 
object,  it  can  readily  be  determined  whether  the  object  is 
animate  or  still  by  its  remaining  on  or  moving  off  the  line. 

Another  peculiarity  of  the  country  is  that  objects  do  not 
always  seem  to  stand  square  with  the  world.  In  approaching 
a  mountain  and  moving  on  an  up  grade  the  plane  of  incline 
is  suddenly  reversed  and  gives  the  appearance  and  sensation 
of  going  downhill.  In  some  inexplicable  manner  sense  and 
reason  seem  to  conflict  and  the  discovery  of  the  disturbed 


MY  FIRST  TRIP  TO  ARIZONA  33 

relation  of  things  is  startling.  You  know  very  well  that  the 
mountain  ahead  is  above  you,  but  it  has  the  appearance  of 
standing  below  you  in  a  hollow ;  and  the  water  in  the  brook 
at  your  feet,  which  runs  down  the  mountain  into  the  valley, 
seems  to  be  running  uphill.  By  turning  squarely  about  and 
looking  backwards,  the  misplaced  objects  become  righted,  and 
produces  much  the  same  sensation  that  a  man  feels  who  is 
lost  and  suddenly  finds  himself  again. 

We  immediately  prepared  to  drive  out  to  the  ranch,  which 
was  ten  miles  distant  and  reached  by  a  road  that  skirted  the 
Dos  Cabezas  mountains.  The  new  wagon  was  set  up  and 
put  in  running  order  and  lightly  loaded  with  suppHes.  All 
of  the  preliminaries  being  completed,  the  horses  were  har- 
nessed and  hooked  to  the  wagon.  The  driver  mounted  his 
seat,  drew  rein  and  cracked  his  whip,  but  we  didn't  go.  The 
horses  were  only  accustomed  to  the  saddle  and  knew  nothing 
about  pulling  in  harness.  Sam  was  a  condemned  cavalry 
horse  and  Box  was  a  native  bronco,  and  being  hitched  to  a 
wagon  was  a  new  experience  to  both.  The  start  was  unpro- 
pitious,  but,  acting  on  the  old  adage  that  "  necessity  is  the 
mother  of  invention,"  which  truth  is  nowhere  better  exem- 
plified than  on  the  frontier  where  conveniences  are  few  and 
the  most  must  be  made  of  everything,  after  some  delay  and 
considerable  mmeuvering  we  finally  got  started. 

The  road  for  some  distance  out  was  level  and  smooth  and 
our  progress  satisfactory.  As  we  drove  leisurely  along  I 
improved  the  opportunity  to  look  about  and  see  the  sights. 
It  was  a  perfect  day  in  April  and  there  never  was  a  brighter 
sky  nor  balmier  air  than  beamed  and  breathed  upon  us.  The 
air  was  soft  and  tremulous  with  a  magical  light  that  produced 
startling  phantasmagoric  effects. 

It  was  my  first  sight  of  a  mirage  and  it  naturally  excited 
my  curiosity.     It  seemed  as  if  a  forest  had  suddenly  sprung 


34  ARIZONA  SKETCHES 

up  in  the  San  Simon  valley  where  just  before  had  appeared 
only  bare  ground.  With  every  change  in  the  angle  of  vision 
as  we  journeyed  on,  there  occurred  a  corresponding  change 
in  the  scene  before  us  that  produced  a  charming  kaleidoscopic 
effect.  The  rough  mountain  was  transformed  into  a  symmet- 
rical city  and  the  dry  valley  into  a  lake  of  sparkling  water, — 
all  seeming  to  be  the  work  of  magic  in  some  fairyland  of 
enchantment. 

In  a  ledge  of  granite  rock  by  the  wayside  were  cut  a  num- 
ber of  round  holes  which  the  Indians  had  made  and  used  as 
mills  for  grinding  their  corn  and  seeds  into  meal.  Nearby 
also,  were  some  mescal  pits  used  for  baking  the  agave,  a 
native  plant  that  is  in  great  demand  as  food  by  the  Indians. 
The  spot  was  evidently  an  old  rendezvous  where  the  maraud- 
ing Apaches  were  accustomed  to  meet  in  council  to  plan 
their  bloody  raids,  and  to  feast  on  mescal  and  pinole  in  honor 
of  some  successful  foray  or  victory  over  an  enemy. 

We  next  crossed  several  well-worn  Indian  trails  which  the 
Apaches  had  made  by  many  years  of  travel  to  and  fro  between 
their  rancherias  in  the  Mogollon  mountains  and  Mexico.  The 
sight  of  these  trails  brought  us  back  to  real  life  and  a  con- 
scious sense  of  danger,  for  were  we  not  in  an  enemy's  country 
and  in  the  midst  of  hostile  Indians  ?  Nearly  every  mile  of 
road  traveled  had  been  at  some  time  in  the  past  the  scene  of 
a  bloody  tragedy  enacted  by  a  savage  foe.  Even  at  that  very 
time  the  Apaches  were  out  on  the  warpath  murdering  people, 
but  fortunately  we  did  not  meet  them  and  escaped  unmo- 
lested. 

The  road  now  crossed  a  low  hill,  which  was  the  signal  for 
more  trouble.  The  team  started  bravely  up  the  incline,  but 
soon  stopped  and  then  balked  and  all  urging  with  whip  and 
voice  failed  to  make  any  impression.  After  several  ineffect- 
ual attempts  to  proceed  it  was  decided  not  to  waste  any  more 


PINALENO    RANCH. 


^gf^ 


THE  SIESTA. 


MY  FIRST  TRIP  TO  ARIZONA  37 

time  in  futile  efforts.  The  horses  were  unhitched  and  the 
wagon  partly  unloaded,  when  all  hands  by  a  united  pull  and 
push  succeeded  in  getting  the  wagon  up  the  hill.  After  re- 
loading no  difficulty  was  experienced  in  making  a  fresh  start 
on  a  down  grade,  but  a  little  farther  on  a  second  and  larger 
hill  was  encountered,  when' the  failure  to  scale  its  summit  was 
even  greater  than  the  first.  No  amount  of  coaxing  or  urg- 
ing budged  the  horses  an  inch.  They  simply  were  stubborn 
and  would  not  pull. 

Night  was  approaching  and  camp  was  yet  some  distance 
ahead.  The  driver  suggested  that  the  best  thing  to  do  under 
the  circumstances  was  for  the  rest  of  us  to  take  the  led 
horses  and  ride  on  to  camp,  while  he  would  remain  with  the 
wagon  and,  if  necessary,  camp  out  all  night.  We  reluctantly 
took  his  advice,  mounted  our  horses  and  finished  our  journey 
in  the  twilight.  Aaron,  who  was  housekeeper  at  the  ranch, 
gave  us  a  hearty  welcome  and  invited  us  to  sit  down  to  a 
bountiful  supper  which  he  had  prepared  in  anticipation  of  our 
coming.  Feeling  weary  after  our  ride  we  retired  early  and 
were  soon  sound  asleep.  The  only  thing  that  disturbed  our 
slumbers  during  the  night  was  a  coyote  concert  which,  as  "  a 
concord  of  sweet  sounds  "  was  a  dismal  failure,  but  as  a  med- 
ley of  discordant  sounds  was  a  decided  success.  The  bark 
of  the  coyote  is  particularly  shrill  and  sharp  and  a  single 
coyote  when  in  full  cry  sounds  like  a  chorus  of  howling  curs. 

We  were  all  up  and  out  early  the  next  morning  to  witness 
the  birth  of  a  new  day.  The  sunrise  was  glorious,  and  bright 
colors  in  many  hues  flashed  across  the  sky.  The  valley 
echoed  with  the  cheerful  notes  of  the  mocking  bird  and  the 
soft  air  was  filled  with  the  fragrance  of  wild  flowers.  The 
scene  was  grandly  inspiring  and  sent  a  thrill  of  pleasure 
through  every  nerve. 

While  thus  absorbed  by  the  beauties  of  nature  we  heard 


38  ARIZONA  SKETCHES 

an  halloo,  and  looking  down  the  road  in  the  direction  of  the 
driver's  bivouac  we  saw  him  coming  swinging  his  hat  in  the 
air  and  driving  at  a  rapid  pace  that  soon  brought  him  to  the 
ranch  house.  In  answer  to  our  inquiries  as  to  how  he  had 
spent  the  night  he  reported  that  the  horses  stood  quietly  in 
their  tracks  all  night  long,  while  he  slept  comfortably  in  the 
wagon.  In  the  morning  the  horses  started  without  undue 
urging  as  if  tired  of  inaction  and  glad  to  go  in  the  direction 
of  provender.  They  were  completely  broken  by  their  fast 
and  after  that  gave  no  further  trouble. 

After  a  stay  of  four  weeks,  learning  something  of  the  ways 
of  ranch  life  and  experiencing  not  a  few  exciting  adventures, 
I  returned  home  feeling  well  pleased  with  my  first  trip  to  the 
ranch. 


THE  OPEN  RANGE  39 


CHAPTER  HI 


THE  OPEN  RANGE 


A  RIZONA  is  in  the  arid  belt  and  well  adapted  to  the 
/-\  range  cattle  industry.  Its  mild  climate  and  limited 
■^  -^  water  supply  make  it  the  ideal  range  country.  In- 
deed, to  the  single  factor  of  its  limited  water  supply,  perhaps, 
more  than  anything  else  is  its  value  due  as  an  open  range. 
If  water  was  abundant  there  could  be  no  open  range  as  then 
the  land  would  all  be  farmed  and  fenced. 

Arizona  is  sometimes  spoken  of  as  belonging  to  the  plains, 
but  it  is  not  a  prairie  country.  Mountains  are  everywhere, 
but  are  separated  in  many  places  by  wide  valleys.  The 
mountains  not  only  make  fine  scenery,  but  are  natural  bound- 
aries for  the  ranches  and  give  shade  and  shelter  to  the 
cattle. 

There  are  no  severe  storms  nor  blizzard  swept  plains  where 
cattle  drift  and  perish  from  cold.  The  weather  is  never  ex- 
tremely cold,  the  mercury  seldom  falling  to  more  than  a  few 
degrees  below  freezing,  except  upon  the  high  plateaus  and 
mountains  of  northern  Arizona.  If  it  freezes  during  the  night 
the  frost  usually  disappears  the  next  day  ;  and,  if  snow  flies, 
it  lies  only  on  the  mountains,  but  melts  as  fast  as  it  falls  in 
the  valleys.  There  are  but  few  cloudy  or  stormy  days  in  the 
year  and  bright,  warm  sunshine  generally  prevails.     There 


40  ARIZONA  SKETCHES 

has  never  been  any  loss  of  cattle  from  cold,  but  many  have 
died  from  drought  as  a  result  of  overstocking  the  range. 

The  pastures  consist  of  valley,  mesa  and  mountain  lands 
which,  in  a  normal  season,  are  covered  by  a  variety  of  nutri- 
tious grasses.  Of  all  the  native  forage  plants  the  gramma 
grass  is  the  most  abundant  and  best.  It  grows  only  in  the 
summer  rainy  season  when,  if  the  rains  are  copious,  the  gray 
desert  is  converted  into  a  vast  green  meadow. 

The  annual  rainfall  is  comparatively  light  and  insufficient 
to  grow  and  mature  with  certainty  any  of  the  cereal  crops. 
When  the  summer  rains  begin  to  fall  the  rancher  is  "jubi- 
lant "  and  the  "  old  cow  smiles."  Rain  means  even  more  to 
the  ranchman  than  it  does  to  the  farmer.  In  an  agricultural 
country  it  is  expected  that  rain  or  snow  will  fall  during  every 
month  of  the  year,  but  on  the  range  rain  is  expected  only 
in  certain  months  and,  if  it  fails  to  fall  then,  it  means  failure, 
in  a  measure,  for  the  entire  year. 

Rain  is  very  uncertain  in  Arizona.  July  and  August  are 
the  rain  months  during  which  time  the  gramma  grass  grows. 
Unless  the  rain  falls  daily  after  it  begins  it  does  but  little 
good,  as  frequent  showers  are  required  to  keep  the  grass  grow- 
ing after  it  once  starts.  A  settled  rain  of  one  or  more  days' 
duration  is  of  rare  occurrence.  During  the  rainy  season  and, 
in  fact,  at  all  times,  the  mornings  are  usually  clear.  In  the 
forenoon  the  clouds  begin  to  gather  and  pile  up  in  dark  bil- 
lowy masses  that  end  in  showers  during  the  afternoon  and 
evening.  But  not  every  rain  cloud  brings  rain.  Clouds  of 
this  character  often  look  very  threatening,  but  all  their  dis- 
play of  thunder  and  lightning  is  only  bluff  and  bluster  and 
ends  in  a  fizzle  with  no  rain.  After  such  a  demonstration 
the  clouds  either  bring  wind  and  a  disagreeable  dust  storm, 
or,  if  a  little  rain  starts  to  fall,  the  air  is  so  dry  that  it  eva- 
porates in  mid  air,  and  none  of  it  ever  reaches  the  earth.     In 


CATTLE  FEEDING  OX  THE  OPEN  RANGE. 


LEAVING  THE  WATER  TROUGH, 


THE  OPEN  RANGE  43 

this  fashion  the  clouds  often  threaten  to  do  great  things,  only 
to  break  their  promise  ;  and  the  anxious  rancher  stands  and 
gazes  at  the  sky  with  longing  eyes,  only  to  be  disappointed 
again  and  again. 

As  a  rule  water  is  scarce.  A  long  procession  of  cloudless 
days  merge  into  weeks  of  dry  weather ;  and  the  weeks  glide 
into  months  during  which  time  the  brazen  sky  refuses  to 
yield  one  drop  of  moisture  either  of  dew  or  rain  to  the  parched 
and  thirsty  earth.  Even  the  rainy  season  is  not  altogether 
reliable,  but  varies  considerably  one  year  with  another  in  the 
time  of  its  appearance  and  continuance. 

The  soil  is  sandy  and  porous  and  readily  absorbs  water, 
except  where  the  earth  is  tramped  and  packed  hard  by  the 
cattle.  One  peculiarity  of  the  country  as  found  marked 
upon  the  maps,  and  that  exists  in  fact,  is  the  diminution  and 
often  complete  disappearance  of  a  stream  after  it  leaves  the 
mountains.  If  not  wholly  lost  upon  entering  the  valley  the 
water  soon  sinks  out  of  sight  in  the  sand  and  disappears  and 
reappears  at  irregular  intervals,  until  it  loses  itself  entirely 
in  some  underground  channel  and  is  seen  no  more. 

Many  a  pleasant  valley  in  the  range  country  is  made 
desolate  by  being  destitute  of  any  surface  spring  or  running 
brook,  or  water  that  can  be  found  at  any  depth.  Occa- 
sionally a  hidden  fountain  is  struck  by  digging,  but  it  is  only 
by  the  merest  chance.  Wells  have  been  dug  to  great  depths 
in  perfectly  dry  ground  in  an  eager  search  for  water  without 
finding  it,  and  such  an  experience  is  usually  equivalent  to  a 
failure  and  the  making  of  a  useless  bill  of  expense. 

A  never-failing  spring  of  good  water  in  sufficient  quantity 
to  supply  the  needs  of  a  ranch  in  the  range  country  is  of 
rare  occurrence,  considering  the  large  territory  to  be  sup- 
plied. Only  here  and  there  at  long  intervals  is  such  a  spring 
found,  and  it  is  always  a  desirable  and  valuable  property. 


44  ARIZONA  SKETCHES 

It  makes  an  oasis  in  the  desert  that  is  an  agreeable  change 
from  the  surrounding  barrenness,  and  furnishes  its  owner,  if 
properly  utilized,  a  comfortable  subsistence  for  himself  and 
herds.  His  fields  produce  without  fail  and  the  increase  of 
his  flocks  and  herds  is  sure. 

The  isolated  rancher  who  is  well  located  is  independent. 
He  is  in  no  danger  of  being  crowded  by  his  neighbors  nor  his 
range  becoming  over  stocked  with  stray  cattle.  His  water 
right  gives  him  undisputed  control  of  the  adjacent  range,  even 
though  he  does  not  own  all  the  land,  which  is  an  unwritten 
law  of  the  range  and  respected  by  all  cattlemen. 

Because  of  the  scarcity  of  water  the  range  country  is 
sparsely  settled  and  always  will  be  until  more  water  is  pro- 
vided by  artificial  means  for  irrigation.  Even  then  a  large 
portion  of  the  land  will  be  worthless  for  any  other  purpose 
than  grazing,  and  stock-growing  on  the  open  range  in  Ari- 
zona will  continue  to  be  a  staple  industry  in  the  future  as  it 
has  been  in  the  past. 

The  range  is  practically  all  occupied  and,  in  many  places, 
is  already  over  stocked.  Where  more  cattle  are  run  on  a 
range  than  its  grass  and  water  can  support  there  is  bound  to 
be  some  loss.  In  stocking  a  range  an  estimate  should  be 
made  of  its  carrying  capacity  in  a  bad  year  rather  than  in  a 
good  one,  as  no  range  can  safely  carry  more  cattle  than  it 
can  support  in  the  poorest  year  ;  like  a  chain,  it  is  no  stronger 
than  its  weakest  link. 

A  good  range  is  sometimes  destroyed  by  the  prairie  dog. 
Wherever  he  establishes  a  colony  the  grass  soon  disappears. 
He  burrows  in  the  ground  and  a  group  of  such  holes  is  called 
a  dog  town.  Like  the  jack-rabbit  he  can  live  without  water 
and  is  thus  able  to  keep  his  hold  on  the  desert.  The  only 
way  to  get  rid  of  him  is  to  kill  him,  which  is  usually  done  by 
the  wholesale  with  poison.     His  flesh  is  fine  eating,  which  the 


^^>    ^       ^^^^a^-w 

w     ^f^B 

I™*i^»  •■•■  -■"• "  --"5iiF"  A 

&-K|tt 

AN  ARIZONA  PASTORAL  SCENE. 


AN  OPEN  RANGE  PASTURE. 


THE  OPEN  RANGE  47 

Navajo  knows  if  the  white  man  does  not.  The  Navajo  con- 
siders him  a  dainty  morsel  which  is  particularly  reUshed  by 
the  sick.  If  a  patient  can  afford  the  price,  he  can  usually 
procure  a  prairie  dog  in  exchange  for  two  sheep. 

The  Navajo  is  an  adept  at  capturing  this  little  animal.  The 
hunter  places  a  small  looking-glass  near  the  hole  and,  in 
concealment  near  by,  he  patiently  awaits  developments. 
When  the  prairie  dog  comes  out  of  his  hole  to  take  an  airing 
he  immediately  spies  his  reflection  in  the  glass  and  takes  it 
for  an  intruder.  In  an  instant  he  is  ready  for  a  fight  and 
pounces  upon  his  supposed  enemy  to  kill  or  drive  him  away. 
While  the  prairie  dog  is  thus  engaged  wrestling  with  his 
shadow  or  reflection  the  hunter  shoots  him  at  close  range  with 
his  bow  and  arrow — never  with  a  gun,  for  if  wounded  by  a 
bullet  he  is  sure  to  drop  into  his  hole  and  is  lost,  but  the 
arrow  tranfixes  his  body  and  prevents  him  from  getting  away. 
He  has  been  hunted  so  much  in  the  Navajo  country  that  he 
has  become  very  scarce.* 

Much  of  the  range  country  in  southern  Arizona  is  destitute 
of  trees,  and  shade,  therefore,  is  scarce.  Upon  the  high 
mountains  and  plateaus  of  northern  Arizona  there  are  great 
forests  of  pine  and  plenty  of  shade.  But  few  cattle  range 
there  in  comparison  to  the  large  numbers  that  graze  on  the 
lower  levels  further  south.  What  little  tree  growth  there  is 
on  the  desert  is  stunted  and  supplies  but  scant  shade.  In 
the  canons  some  large  Cottonwood,  sycamore  and  walnut  trees 
can  be  found  ;  upon  the  foot  hills  the  live  oak  and  still  higher 
up  the  mountain  the  pine.  Cattle  always  seek  the  shade  and 
if  there  are  no  trees  they  will  lie  down  in  the  shade  of  a  bush 
or  anything  that  casts  a  shadow.  The  cattle  are  so  eager  for 
shade  that  if  they  can  find  nothing  better  they  will  crowd 

*  This  statement  is  made  on  the  authority  of  Mr.  F.  W.  Volz,  who  lives  at 
Canon  Diablo,  and  is  familiar  with  the  customs  of  the  Navajos. 


48  ARIZONA  SKETCHES 

into  the  narrow  ribbon  of  shade  that  is  cast  by  a  columnar 
cactus  or  telegraph  pole  and  seem  to  be  satisfied  with  ever 
so  little  if  only  shade  is  touched. 

Twenty  years  ago  before  there  were  many  cattle  on  the 
southwestern  range,  the  gramma  grass  stood  knee  high  every- 
where all  over  that  country  and  seemed  to  be  an  inexhaustible 
supply  of  feed  for  an  unlimited  number  of  cattle  during  an 
indefinite  term  of  years.  It  was  not  many  years,  however, 
after  the  large  herds  were  turned  loose  on  the  range  until 
the  grass  was  all  gone  and  the  ground,  except  in  a  few  fa- 
vored spots,  left  nearly  as  bare  of  grass  as  the  traveled  road. 
At  the  present  time  whatever  grass  there  is  must  grow  each 
year  which,  even  in  a  favorable  year,  is  never  heavy.  If  the 
summer  rains  fail,  no  grass  whatever  can  grow  and  the  cattle 
are  without  feed.  The  grass  about  the  springs  and  water 
holes  is  first  to  disappear  and  then  the  cattle  must  go  farther 
and  farther  from  water  to  find  any  grass.  When  cattle  are 
compelled  to  travel  over  long  distances  in  going  from  grass 
to  water,  they  naturally  grow  thin  from  insufficient  food  and 
are  worn  out  by  the  repeated  long  journeys.  A  cow  that  is 
thin  and  weak  will  postpone  making  the  trip  as  long  as  pos- 
sible— two,  three  and  even  four  days  in  the  hottest  weather 
she  will  wait  before  attempting  the  trip.  At  last,  when  the 
poor  creature  reaches  water,  she  is  so  famished  from  thirst 
that  she  drinks  too  much.  In  her  feeble  condition  she  is 
unable  to  carry  the  enormous  load  of  water  which  she  drinks 
and  lies  down  by  the  side  of  the  friendly  water  trough  to  die 
from  exhaustion. 

If  cattle  are  turned  loose  upon  a  new  range  they  act  strange 
and  are  inclined  to  scatter.  Until  they  become  accustomed 
to  the  change  they  should  be  close  herded,  but  after  they 
are  once  located  they  are  not  liable  to  stray  very  far. 

As  they  are  only  worked  by  men  on  horseback  they  are 


IN    A    QUANDARY. 


THE  OPEN  RANGE  51 

not  frightened  at  the  sight  of  a  horse  and  rider ;  but  let  a 
stranger  approach  them  on  foot,  in  a  moment  after  he  is 
sighted  every  head  is  I'aised  in  surprise  and  alarm  and  the 
pedestrian  is,  indeed,  fortunate  if  the  herd  turns  tail  and 
scampers  off  instead  of  running  him  down  and  tramping  him 
under  foot  in  a  wild  stampede. 

Nowhere  else  can  be  found  a  finer  sight  than  is  witnessed 
in  the  range  country.  In  every  direction  broad  meadows 
stretch  away  to  the  horizon  where  numberless  cattle  roam 
and  are  the  embodiment  of  bovine  happiness  and  content- 
ment. Scattered  about  in  irregular  groups  they  are  seen  at 
ease  lying  down  or  feeding,  and  frisking  about  in  an  overflow 
of  exuberant  life.  Cow  paths  or  trails  converge  from  every 
point  of  the  compass,  that  lead  to  springs  and  water  holes, 
on  which  the  cattle  travel. 

It  is  an  interesting  sight  to  watch  the  cattle  maneuver  as 
they  form  in  line,  single  file,  ready  for  the  march.  They 
move  forward  in  an  easy,  deliberate  walk  one  behind  the  other 
and  may  be  seen  coming  and  going  in  every  direction.  They 
make  their  trips  with  great  regularity  back  and  forth  from 
grass  to  water,  and  vice  versa,  going  to  water  in  the  morning 
and  back  to  the  feeding  grounds  at  night. 

Cows  have  a  curious  fashion,  sometimes,  of  hiding  out 
their  calves.  When  a  cow  with  a  young  calf  starts  for 
water  she  invariably  hides  her  calf  in  a  bunch  of  grass  or 
clump  of  bushes  in  some  secluded  spot,  where  it  Hes  down 
and  remains  perfectly  quiet  until  the  mother  returns.  I 
have  many  times  while  riding  the  range  found  calves  thus 
secreted  that  could  scarcely  be  aroused  or  frightened  away, 
which  behavior  was  so  different  from  their  usual  habit  of 
being  shy  and  running  off  at  the  sHghtest  provocation.  The 
calf  under  such  circumstances  seems  to  understand  that  it 
is  "  not  at  home,"  and  cannot  be  seen. 


52  ARIZONA  SKETCHES 

At  another  time  a  lot  of  calves  are  left  in  charge  of  a 
young  cow  or  heifer  that  seems  to  understand  her  responsi- 
bility and  guards  her  charge  carefully.  The  young  calves 
are  too  weak  to  make  the  long  trip  to  water  and  thus,  through 
the  maternal  instinct  of  the  mother  cow,  she  provides  for  the 
care  of  her  offspring  almost  as  if  she  were  human. 

After  viewing  such  a  large  pasture  as  the  open  range  pre- 
sents, which  is  limitless  in  extent,  the  small  fenced  field  or 
pasture  lot  of  a  few  acres  on  the  old  home  farm  back  east, 
that  looked  so  large  to  boyish  eyes  in  years  gone  by,  dwindles 
by  comparison  into  insignificance  and  can  never  again  be  re- 
stored to  its  former  greatness. 


A     "stag     camp." 


PINALENO    RANCH    HERD. 


RANCH  LIFE  55 


CHAPTER   IV 


RANCH    LIFE 


RANCH  life  on  the  open  range  may  be  somewhat 
wild  and  lonely,  but  it  is  as  free  and  independent  to 
the  rancher  as  it  is  to  his  unfettered  cattle  that 
roam  at  will  over  a  thousand  hills.  As  a  place  of  residence 
for  a  family  of  women  and  children  it  is  undesirable  because 
of  its  isolation  and  lack  of  social  and  educational  privileges  ; 
but  for  a  man  who  cares  to  "  rough  it "  it  has  a  rare  fascina- 
tion. Its  freedom  may  mean  lonesomeness  and  its  indepen- 
dence monotony,  yet  it  is  very  enjoyable  for  a  season.  Like 
anything  else  it  may  become  wearing  and  wearisome  if  con- 
tinued too  long  without  a  change,  but  its  novelty  has  a  charm 
that  is  irresistible. 

Ranch  life  is  untrammeled  by  social  conventionalities  and 
is  not  burdened  by  business  cares,  but  is  an  easy,  natural  life 
that  is  free  from  all  kinds  of  pressure.  It  relieves  the  ten- 
sion of  an  artificial  existence,  and  worry  and  vexation  are 
forgotten.  Time  loses  its  rapid  flight  and  once  more  jogs 
on  at  an  easy  pace  ;  and  its  complete  isolation  and  quiet 
gives  nature  a  chance  to  rest  and  recuperate 

"  Away  from  the  dwellings  of  careworn  men." 

The  environment  of  ranch  life  is  highly  conducive  to  good 


56  ARIZONA  SKETCHES 

health.  The  scenery  is  delightful,  the  air  pure  and  bracing, 
the  food  wholesome  and  nutritious,  the  couch  comfortable 
and  the  sleep  refreshing.  Walking  and  riding  furnish  the 
necessary  exercise  that  nature  demands.  Indeed,  there  is 
no  better  exercise  to  be  found  than  riding  horseback  to 
stimulate  sluggish  organs,  or,  excite  to  healthy  action  the 
bodily  functions.  It  stirs  the  liver,  causes  deep  breathing, 
strengthens  the  heart  and  circulation,  tones  the  nerves  and 
makes  an  appetite  that  waits  on  good  digestion.  An  out- 
door life  is  often  better  than  medicine  and  is  a  panacea  for 
the  "  ills  that  human  flesh  is  heir  to." 

The  ranchman,  if  he  is  in  tune  with  his  surroundings,  finds 
a  never-failing  spring  of  pleasure.  If  he  is  company  for  him- 
self he  is  well  entertained  and  if  he  is  a  lover  of  nature  he 
finds  interesting  subjects  for  study  upon  every  hand.  I^is 
wants  are  few  and  simple  and  the  free  life  that  he  lives  de- 
velops in  him  a  strong  and  sturdy  manhood.  He  is  the  pic- 
ture of  health  and  is  happy  and  contented  as  the  day  is  long. 

However,  such  a  life  does  not  suit  everyone,  as  individual 
tastes  differ.  Prejudice  also  exerts  an  influence  and  is  apt 
to  estimate  all  western  life  as  crude  and  undesirable,  being 
in  a  transition  state  of  change  from  savagery  to  civilization. 
Be  it  even  so  ;  for,  if  the  savage  had  never  existed  to  furnish 
the  ancestry  that  civilized  man  boasts,  civilization  would  not 
have  been  possible.  It  is  only  natural  that  this  should  be  so 
as,  in  the  order  of  nature,  evolution  begins  at  the  bottom  and 
works  up. 

There  is  perhaps  no  condition  in  life  that  can  be  called 
perfect,  yet  of  the  two  extremes  we  choose  to  believe  that 
civilization  is  preferable  to  barbarism  ;  but  an  intermediate 
state  has  the  advantage  over  both  extremes  by  avoiding 
native  crudeness  upon  the  one  hand  and  excessive  refinement 
uDon  the  other,  both  being  equally  undesirable. 


RANCH    CABIN. 


COWBOY   SPORT. 
Photo,  by  C.  S.  Fly. 


RANCH  LIFE  59 

Happiness,  which  we  all  profess  to  seek,  exists  in  some  de- 
gree everywhere,  but  we  are  always  striving  to  acquire  some- 
thing more.  In  our  constant  struggle  for  improvement, 
progress  undoubtedly  is  made  in  the  right  direction.  With 
refinement  comes  increased  sensibility  and  an  enlarged  capa- 
city for  enjoyment.  But,  such  a  state  in  itself  is  not  one  of 
unalloyed  bliss,  as  might  be  supposed,  since  it  is  marred  by 
its  antithesis,  an  increased  amount  of  sickness  and  suffering, 
which  is  the  inevitable  penalty  of  civilization.  In  such  a 
progression  the  pleasures  of  life  become  more,  but  the  acute- 
ness  of  suffering  is  also  increased.  The  mistake  lies  in  the 
fact  that  in  our  eager  pursuit  after  the  artificial  we  forget  na- 
ture and  not  until  we  acquire  a  surfeit  of  that  which  is  arti- 
ficial and  grow  weary  of  the  shams  and  deceits  of  the  world 
do  we  stop  and  think  or  turn  again  to  nature  to  find  the 
truth. 

In  the  early  days  the  frontier  was  the  rendezvous  for  rough 
and  lawless  characters  of  every  description.  That  time  has 
gone  by  never  to  return  in  the  history  of  the  nation,  as  the 
rustlers  have  either  reformed  and  become  good  citizens  or 
long  ago  left  the  country  by  the  lead  or  hemp  routes.  The 
change  in  the  times  has  been  such  that  never  again  will  it 
be  possible  to  return  to  the  conditions  that  existed  in  the 
early  settlement  of  the  west  which  gave  to  desperadoes  a 
safe  hiding  place. 

The  people  now  living  on  what  is  left  of  the  frontier  will, 
as  a  class,  compare  favorably  with  those  of  any  other  com- 
munity. There  may  be  small  surface  polish,  as  the  world 
goes,  but  there  is  much  genuine  gold  of  true  character  that 
needs  only  a  little  rubbing  to  make  it  shine. 

The  population  being  sparse  there  is  comparatively  little 
opportunity  or  inclination  for  wrongdoing.  Whatever  any- 
body does  is  noticed  at  once  and  everything  that  happens  is 


60  ARIZONA  SKETCHES 

immediately  found  out.  The  favorite  haunt  of  vice  and  crime 
is  not  in  a  sparsely  settled  community,  public  opinion  to  the 
contrary  notwithstanding,  but  in  the  centers  of  population,  in 
our  large  cities  where  temptation  to  do  evil  is  strong  and  dark 
deeds  find  ready  concealment  in  the  mingling  and  confusion 
of  the  throng. 

The  ranchman  deserves  to  be  correctly  judged  by  his  true 
character  and  not  by  any  false  standard  that  is  artfully  designed 
to  misrepresent  him  or  to  unjustly  bring  him  into  contempt. 
He  may  have  a  rough  exterior,  not  intending  to  pose  in  a 
model  fashion  plate,  but  in  real  life  where  he  is  tried  there  is 
found  under  his  coarse  garb  a  heart  that  is  honest  and  true 
which  responds  with  sympathy  and  kindness  for  anyone  in 
distress  ;  and  his  generosity  and  hospitality  are  proverbial  and 
stand  without  a  rival.  Men  from  every  position  in  Hfe,  in- 
cluding college  graduates  and  professional  men,  are  engaged 
in  ranching  and  whoever  takes  them  to  be  a  lot  of  toughs 
and  ignoramuses  is  egregiously  mistaken. 

The  strength,  virtue  and  intelligence  of  the  nation  is  found 
in  its  large  middle  class  of  laboring  people  that  is  largely 
composed  of  farmers  and  mechanics,  men  who  work  with  their 
hands  and  live  natural  lives  and  are  so  busy  in  some  useful 
occupation  that  they  have  no  time  to  think  of  mischief.  In 
this  favored  land  of  freedom  all  of  our  great  men  have  been 
of  the  common  people  and  struggled  up  from  some  humble 
position.  A  life  of  toil  may  seem,  to  be  hard,  but  it  conforms 
to  nature  and  natural  laws  and  favors  the  development  of  the 
best  that  is  in  man  ;  and  he  who  shirks  toil  misses  his  oppor- 
tunity. Whatever  tends  to  wean  men  from  work  only  weakens 
them.  Luxury  and  indolence  travel  on  the  downward  road 
of  degeneracy.  They  may  make  pleasant  temporary  indul- 
gence, but  are  fatal  to  ultimate  success. 

Locomotion  on  a  ranch  consists  almost  entirely  of  horse- 


RANCH   LIFE  61 

back  riding,  as  walking  is  too  slow  and  tiresome  and  wheeled 
conveyance  is  often  inconvenient  or  impossible  for  cross-coun- 
try driving.  When  the  ranchman  mounts  his  horse  in  the 
morning  to  make  his  daily  rounds  he  has  a  clear  field  before 
him.  He  is  "  monarch  of  all  he  surveys  "  and  practically 
owns  the  earth,  since  his  neighbors  live  many  miles  away  and 
his  road  leads  in  any  direction  clear  to  the  horizon. 

The  average  ranch  is  not  intended  to  furnish  luxuries,  but 
to  serve  the  best  interests  of  the  business  in  hand,  that  of 
growing  cattle.  It  is  usually  a  "  stag  camp  "  composed  en- 
tirely of  men  who  occupy  a  rude  cabin  near  some  convenient 
spring  or  stream  of  water,  where  they  keep  house  in  ranch 
style  and  live  after  a  fashion.  No  money  is  ever  expended 
in  unnecessary  improvements,  but  every  dollar  spent  in  re- 
pairs is  put  where  it  will  do  the  most  good.  The  house  fur- 
nishings are  all  of  the  plainest  kind  and  intended  to  meet 
only  present  necessities.  The  larder  is  not  supplied  with 
luxuries  nor  is  the  cuisine  prolific  of  dainties,  but  there  is  al- 
ways on  hand  a  supply  of  the  necessaries  of  life. 

Every  man  has  his  particular  work  to  perform,  but  unless 
it  be  on  some  large  ranch  where  the  force  of  men  employed 
is  sufficiently  large  to  require  the  services  of  a  chef,  he  is 
also  expected  to  assist  in  keeping  house.  It  is  an  unwritten 
law  of  the  ranch  that  everybody  on  the  place  must  share  in 
this  work  and  if  anyone  shirks  his  duty  he  must  either 
promptly  mend  his  ways  or  else  quit  his  job.  It  is  seldom, 
however,  that  this  rule  has  to  be  enforced,  as  the  necessities 
of  the  case  require  that  every  man  shall  be  able  to  prepare  a 
meal  as  he  is  liable  to  be  left  alone  for  days  or  weeks  at  a 
time  when  he  must  either  cook  or  starve. 

The  equipment  of  the  cowboy  is  his  horse  and  reata. 
They  are  his  constant  companions  and  serve  his  every  pur- 
pose.    His  work  includes  much  hard  riding,  which  he  greatly 


62  ARIZONA  SKETCHES 

enjoys  if  no  accident  befalls  him.  But  dashing  on  in  heed- 
less speed  while  rounding  up  cattle  he  is  ever  liable  to  mis- 
haps, as  his  horse,  although  sure  footed,  may  at  any  time 
step  into  a  prairie  dogs'  hole  or  stumble  on  a  loose  rock  that 
is  liable  to  throw  both  horse  and  rider  to  the  ground  in  a 
heap.  He  is,  indeed,  fortunate  if  he  escapes  unhurt,  or  only 
receives  a  few  bruises  and  not  a  fractured  bone  or  broken  neck. 

His  work  consists  in  riding  over  the  range  and  marking 
the  condition  of  the  cattle  ;  line  riding  to  prevent  the  stock 
from  straying ;  looking  after  the  springs  and  water  holes  and 
keeping  them  clean  ;  branding  calves,  gathering  steers  for 
market  and  assisting  in  the  general  work  of  the  round-up. 
Every  day  has  its  duty  and  every  season  its  particular  work, 
yet  there  are  times  of  considerable  leisure  during  the  year. 
After  his  day's  work  is  done  he  repairs  to  the  ranch  house, 
or  to  some  outlying  camp,  whichever  happens  to  be  nearest 
when  night  overtakes  him,  for  every  large  ranch  has  one  or 
more  such  camps  posted  at  some  convenient  point  that  fur- 
nishes temporary  shelter  and  refreshment,  where  he  rests  and 
eats  his  frugal  meal  with  a  relish  that  only  health  and  rough 
riding  can  give. 

If  he  is  at  the  home  ranch  in  winter  he  spends  the  long 
evenings  before  an  open  hearth  fire  of  blazing  logs  and  by 
the  light  of  the  fire  and  the  doubtful  aid  of  a  tallow  dip 
lounges  the  hours  away  in  reading  and  cogitation  ;  or,  if  in 
the  company  of  congenial  companions,  engages  in  conversa- 
tion and  pleasantry  or  any  amusement  that  the  party  may 
select.  At  an  early  hour  he  turns  in  for  the  night  and  after 
a  sound  and  refreshing  sleep  is  up  and  out  with  the  dawn. 
After  breakfast  he  mounts  his  horse  and  in  his  striking  and 
characteristic  costume  of  broad  sombrero,  blue  flannel  shirt, 
fringed  chaperejos  and  jingling  spurs  he  rides  forth  to  his 
work  a  perfect  type  of  the  gallant  caballero. 


ROPING   A   MAVERICK. 


THE  ROUND-UP. 
Photo,  by  C.  S.  Fly. 


THE  ROUND-UP  65 


CHAPTER  V 


THE  ROUND-UP 


IN  the  range  cattle  business  it  is  important  for  every 
owner  of  live  stock  to  have  some  mark  by  which  he  can 
tell  his  own  cattle.  It  is  impossible  for  any  man  to  re- 
member and  recognize  by  natural  marks  every  animal  in  a 
large  herd.  On  the  open  range  there  are  no  fenced  pastures 
to  hold  the  cattle,  but  all  are  permitted  to  run  free  and  mix 
promiscuously.  To  distinguish  the  cattle  of  different  owners 
a  system  of  earmarks  and  brands  has  been  devised  by  which 
each  ranchman  can  identify  and  claim  his  own  stock. 

The  branding  is  usually  done  during  a  round-up  when 
every  calf  found  is  caught  and  branded  in  the  brand  of  its 
mother.  If  a  calf  remains  unbranded  until  after  it  is  weaned 
and  quits  its  mother,  it  becomes  a  maverick  and  is  Hable  to 
be  lost  to  its  owner.  A  calf,  if  left  to  itself,  will  follow  its 
mother  for  several  months  and  then  leave  her  to  seek  its  own 
living.  Occasionally  a  calf  does  not  become  weaned  when  it 
should  be,  but  continues  the  baby  habit  indefinitely.  If  a 
yearling  is  found  unweaned  it  is  caught  and  "blabbed  "  which 
is  done  by  fitting  a  peculiarly  shaped  piece  of  wood  into  its 
nose  that  prevents  it  from  sucking  but  does  not  interfere 
with  feeding. 

If  a  calf  loses  its  mother  while  very  young  it  is  called  a 


66  ARIZONA  SKETCHES 

"  leppy."  Such  an  orphan  calf  is,  indeed,  a  forlorn  and  forsaken 
little  creature.  Having  no  one  to  care  for  it,  it  has  a  hard  time 
to  make  a  living.  If  it  is  smart  enough  to  share  the  lacteal 
ration  of  some  more  fortunate  calf  it  does  very  well,  but  if  it 
cannot  do  so  and  has  to  depend  entirely  on  grazing  for  a  liv- 
ing its  life  becomes  precarious  and  is  apt  to  be  sacrificed  in 
the  "  struggle  for  the  survival  of  the  fittest." 

If  it  survives  the  ordeal  and  lives  it  bears  the  same  rela- 
tion to  the  herd  as  the  maverick  and  has  no  lawful  owner 
until  it  is  branded.  If  an  unbranded  calf  has  left  or  lost  its 
mother  it  has  lost  its  identity  as  well  and  finds  it  again 
only  after  being  branded,  although  it  may  have  swapped 
owners  in  the  process.  Theoretically,  a  maverick  belongs  to 
the  owner  of  the  range  on  which  it  runs,  but,  practically,  it 
becomes  the  property  of  the  man  who  first  finds  and  brands 
it. 

Although  the  branding  is  supposed  to  be  done  only  during 
a  round-up  there  is  nevertheless  some  branding  done  in  every 
month  of  the  year.  The  ranchman  is  compelled  to  do  so  to 
save  his  calves  from  being  stolen.  Therefore  early  brand- 
ing is  generally  practiced  as  it  has  been  found  to  be  the  best 
safeguard  against  theft.  Either  the  spring  or  fall  is  considered 
a  good  time  to  brand,  but  the  only  best  time  to  brand  a  calf 
is  when  you  find  it. 

Dishonest  men  are  found  in  the  cattle  business  the  same 
as  in  other  occupations  and  every  year  a  large  number  of  cattle 
are  misappropriated  and  stolen  from  the  range.  Cattle  have 
been  stolen  by  the  wholesale  and  large  herds  run  off  and 
illegally  sold  before  the  owner  discovered  his  loss.  Calf 
stealing,  however,  happens  more  frequently  than  the  stealing 
of  grown  cattle  and  many  ingenious  devices  have  been  in- 
vented to  make  such  stealing  a  success.  A  common  practice 
is  to  "  sleeper  "  a  calf  by  a  partial  earmark  and  a  shallow 


IN  CLOSE  QUARTERS. 


A    CATTLE    DRIVE. 


THE  ROUND-UP  69 

brand  that  only  singes  the  hair  but  does  not  burn  deep  enough 
to  leave  a  permanent  scar.  If  the  calf  is  not  discovered  as 
an  imperfect  or  irregular  brand  and  becomes  a  maverick,  it 
is  kept  under  surveillance  by  the  thief  until  he  considers  it 
safe  to  finish  the  job  when  he  catches  it  again  and  brands 
it  with  his  own  iron. 

Different  methods  are  employed  to  win  a  calf  and  fit  it  for 
unlawful  branding.  Sometimes  the  calf  is  caught  and  staked 
out  in  some  secluded  spot  where  it  is  not  liable  to  be  found 
and  away  from  its  mother  until  it  is  nearly  starved  when  it  is 
branded  by  the  thief  and  turned  loose ;  or,  the  calf's  tongue 
is  split  so  that  it  cannot  suck  and  by  the  time  that  the 
wounded  tongue  has  healed  the  calf  has  lost  its  mother,  and 
the  thief  brands  it  for  himself.  Again,  the  mother  cow  is 
shot  and  killed,  when  the  orphan  calf  is  branded  in  perfect 
safety  as  "the  dead  tell  no  tales." 

The  owner  of  cattle  on  the  open  range  must  be  constantly 
on  his  guard  against  losses  by  theft.  Usually  the  thief  is  a 
dishonest  neighbor  or  one  of  his  own  cowboys  who  becomes 
thrifty  at  his  employer's  expense.  Many  a  herd  of  cattle 
was  begun  without  a  single  cow,  but  was  started  by  branding 
surreptitiously  other  people's  property.  It  is  not  an  easy 
matter  to  detect  such  a  thief  or  to  convict  on  evidence  when 
he  is  arrested  and  brought  to  trial.  A  cattle  thief  seldom 
works  alone,  but  associates  himself  with  others  of  his  kind 
who  will  perjure  themselves  to  swear  each  other  clear. 

The  cow  ponies  that  are  used  in  range  work  are  small 
but  active  and  possessed  of  great  power  of  endurance.  They 
are  the  descendants  of  the  horses  that  were  brought  into 
Mexico  by  the  Spaniards,  some  of  which  escaped  into  the 
wilderness  and  their  increase  became  the  wild  horses  of  the 
plains.  They  are  known  by  the  various  names  of  mustang, 
bronco  and  cayuse  according  to  the  local  vernacular  of  the 


70  ARIZONA  SKETCHES 

country  in  which  they  roam.  They  are  wild  and  hard  to 
conquer  and  are  sometimes  never  fully  broken  even  under  the 
severest  treatment.  Bucking  and  pitching  are  their  peculiar 
tricks  for  throwing  a  rider  and  such  an  experience  invariably 
ends  in  discomfort  if  not  discomfiture,  for  if  the  rider  is  not 
unhorsed  he  at  least  receives  a  severe  shaking  up  in  the 
saddle. 

The  native  cattle,  like  the  horses,  are  small  and  wild,  but 
are  hardy  and  make  good  rustlers.  The  native  stock  has 
been  greatly  improved  in  recent  years  by  cross  breeding  with 
thoroughbred  Durham  and  Hereford  bulls.  Grade  cattle  are 
better  suited  for  the  open  range  than  are  pure  bred  animals, 
which  are  more  tender  and  fare  better  in  fenced  pastures. 
By  cross  breeding  the  quality  of  range  cattle  has  steadily  im- 
proved until  the  scrub  element  has  been  almost  bred  out. 

As  a  breeding  ground  Arizona  is  unsurpassed,  but  for  ma- 
turing beef  cattle  the  northern  country  is  preferable.  Thou- 
sands of  young  cattle  are  shipped  out  annually  to  stock  the 
ranges  of  Wyoming  and  Montana  and  to  fill  the  feed  lots  of 
Kansas,  Missouri  and  other  feeding  states.  A  dash  of  native 
blood  in  range  cattle  is  desirable  as  it  enables  them  to  endure 
hardships  without  injury  and  find  subsistence  in  seasons  of 
drought  and  scant  forage. 

The  general  round-up  occurs  in  the  fall,  just  after  the 
summer  rains,  when  there  is  plenty  of  grass  and  the  horses 
and  cattle  are  in  good  condition.  The  ranchmen  of  a  neigh- 
borhood meet  at  an  appointed  time  and  place  and  organize 
for  systematic  work.  A  captain  is  chosen  who  is  in  com- 
mand of  the  round-up  and  must  be  obeyed.  Each  cowboy 
has  his  own  string  of  horses,  but  all  of  the  horses  of  the  round- 
up not  in  use  are  turned  out  to  graze  and  herd  together.  A 
mess  wagon  and  team  of  horses  in  charge  of  a  driver,  who  is 
also  the  cook,  hauls  the  outfit  of  pots,  provisions  and  bedding. 


LOADING   CATTLE,   WILLCOX. 


WILLCOX    SHIPPING    PENS. 
Photos  by  E.  R.  Monk. 


THE  ROUND-UP  73 

The  round-up  moves  from  ranch  to  ranch  rounding  up  and 
marking  the  cattle  as  it  goes  and  is  out  from  four  to  six 
weeks,  according  to  the  number  of  ranches  that  are  included 
in  the  circuit. 

When  camp  is  made  and  everything  ready  for  work 
the  cowboys  ride  out  in  different  directions  and  drive  in  all 
the  cattle  they  can  find.  After  the  cattle  are  all  gathered 
the  calves  are  branded  and  the  cattle  of  the  several  owners 
are  cut  into  separate  herds  and  held  until  the  round-up  is 
finished  when  they  are  driven  home. 

Every  unbranded  calf  is  caught  and  branded  in  its  mother's 
brand.  In  a  mix-up  of  cattle  as  occurs  at  a  round-up,  a  calf 
sometimes  gets  separated  from  its  mother  so  that  when  caught 
its  identity  is  uncertain.  To  avoid  making  a  mistake  the  calf 
is  only  slightly  marked,  just  enough  to  hurt  it  a  little,  and  is 
then  turned  loose.  A  calf  when  it  is  hurt  is  very  much  like 
a  child,  in  that  it  cries  and  wants  its  mamma.  As  quick  as  it 
is  let  go  it  immediately  hunts  its  mother  and  never  fails  to 
find  her.  When  cow  and  calf  have  come  together  the  calf 
is  again  caught  and  the  branding  finished. 

The  pain  produced  by  the  hot  branding  iron  makes  the 
calf  bawl  lustily  and  struggle  to  free  itself.  The  mother 
cow  sometimes  resents  the  punishment  of  her  offspring  by 
charging  and  chasing  the  men  who  are  doing  the  branding ; 
or,  if  she  is  of  a  less  fiery  disposition,  shows  her  displeasure 
by  a  look  of  reproach  as  much  as  to  say,  "  You  bad  men, 
what  have  you  done  to  hurt  my  little  darling  ? " 

A  peculiarity  of  brands  is  that  they  do  not  all  grow  alike. 
Sometimes  a  brand,  after  it  is  healed,  remains  unchanged 
during  the  life  of  the  animal.  At  other  times  it  enlarges  to 
several  times  its  original  size.  Various  reasons  are  assigned 
to  account  for  this  difference.  Some  claim  that  the  brand 
only  grows  with  the  calf  ;  others  assert  that  it  is  due  to  deep 


74  ARIZONA  SKETCHES 

branding ;  and,  again,  it  is  ascribed  to  lunar  influence.  But, 
as  to  the  real  cause  of  the  difference,  no  explanation  has  been 
given  that  really  explains  the  phenomenon. 

The  cowboy's  work  is  nearly  all  done  in  the  saddle  and 
calls  for  much  hard  riding.  He  rides  like  a  Centaur,  but  is 
clumsy  on  his  feet.  Being  so  much  in  the  saddle  his  walk- 
ing muscles  become  weakened,  and  his  legs  pressing  against 
the  body  of  his  horse,  in  time,  makes  him  bowlegged.  In 
addition  he  wears  high-heeled  Mexican  boots  which  throw 
him  on  his  toes  when  he  walks  and  makes  his  already  sham- 
bling gait  even  more  awkward. 

A  cowboy's  life  has  little  in  it  to  inspire  him  with  high 
ideals  or  arouse  his  ambition  to  achieve  greatness.  He 
leads  a  hard  life  among  rough  men  and  receives  only  coarse 
fare  and  rougher  treatment.  His  life  is  narrow  and  he  works 
in  a  rut  that  prevents  him  from  taking  a  broad  view  of  life. 
All  that  he  has  is  his  monthly  wages,  and,  possibly,  a  hope 
that  at  some  future  day  he  may  have  a  herd  of  cattle  of  his 
own. 

Managing  a  herd  of  range  cattle  successfully  is  an  art  that 
can  only  be  acquired  by  long  practice,  and  it  is  surprising  how 
expert  men  can  become  at  that  business.  All  the  work  done 
among  cattle  is  on  horseback,  which  includes  herding,  driv- 
ing, cutting  and  roping.  The  trained  cow  pony  seemingly 
knows  as  much  about  a  round-up  as  his  master,  and  the  two, 
together,  form  a  combination  that  is  invincible  in  a  herd  of  wild 
cattle.  The  cow  or  steer  that  is  selected  to  be  roped  or  cut 
out  rarely  escapes.  While  the  horse  is  in  hot  pursuit  the 
rider  dexterously  whirls  his  reata  above  his  head  until,  at  a 
favorable  moment,  it  leaves  his  hand,  uncoiling  as  it  flies 
through  the  air,  and,  if  the  throw  is  successful,  the  noose 
falls  over  the  animal's  head.  Suddenly  the  horse  comes  to 
a  full  stop  and  braces  himself  for  the  shock.     When  the 


GUARDING      THE      HERD. 


KICKING  UP  A  DUST. 


THE  ROUND-UP  77 

animal  caught  reaches  the  end  of  the  rope  it  is  brought  to 
an  abrupt  halt  and  tumbled  in  a  heap  on  the  ground.  The 
horse  stands  braced  pulling  on  the  rope  which  has  been  made 
fast  to  the  horn  of  the  saddle  by  a  few  skillful  turns.  The 
cowboy  is  out  of  the  saddle  and  on  his  feet  in  a  jiffy.  He 
grasps  the  prostrate  animal  by  the  tail  and  a  hind  leg, 
throws  it  on  its  side,  and  ties  its  four  feet  together,  so  that 
it  is  helpless  and  ready  for  branding  or  inspection.  The  cow- 
boys have  tying  contests  in  which  a  steer  is  sometimes  caught 
and  tied  in  less  time  than  a  minute. 

It  is  a  comical  sight  to  see  an  unhorsed  cowboy  chase  his 
runaway  horse  on  foot  as  he  is  almost  sure  to  do  if  caught  in 
such  a  predicament.  He  ought  to  know  that  he  cannot  out- 
run his  fleet  steed  in  such  a  race,  but  seems  to  be  impelled 
by  some  strange  impulse  to  make  the  attempt.  After  he  has 
run  himself  out  of  breath  he  is  liable  to  realize  the  folly  of  his 
zeal  and  adopt  a  more  sensible  method  for  capturing  his  horse. 

The  cowboy  who  works  on  the  southwestern  range  has 
good  cause  to  fear  the  malodorous  hydrophobia  skunk.  At 
a  round-up  all  of  the  cowboys  sleep  on  the  ground.  During 
the  night,  while  they  are  asleep,  the  little  black  and  white 
cat-like  animal  forages  through  the  camp  for  something  to 
eat.  Without  provocation  the  skunk  will  attack  the  sleeper 
and  fasten  its  sharp  teeth  in  some  exposed  portion  of  his 
anatomy,  either  the  nose  or  a  finger  or  toe  and  will  not  let 
go  until  it  is  killed  or  forcibly  removed.  The  wound  thus 
made  usually  heals  quickly  and  the  incident  is,  perhaps,  soon 
forgotten ;  but  after  several  weeks  or  months  hydrophobia 
suddenly  develops  and  proves  fatal  in  a  short  time. 

The  only  known  cure  for  the  bite  of  the  skunk  is  the  Pas- 
teur treatment  and,  since  its  discovery,  as  soon  as  anyone  is 
bitten,  he  is  immediately  sent  to  the  Pasteur  Institute  in 
Chicago  for  treatment. 


78  ARIZONA  SKETCHES 


CHAPTER   VI 


RANCH    HAPPENINGS 


RANCH  life  is  often  full  of  thrilling  incidents  and 
adventures.  The  cowboy  in  his  travels  about  the 
country  looking  after  cattle,  hunting  wild  game  or, 
in  turn,  being  hunted  by  yet  wilder  Indians,  finds  plenty  of 
novelty  and  excitement  to  break  any  fancied  monotony  which 
might  be  considered  as  belonging  to  ranch  life.  In  a  number 
of  visits  to  the  range  country  during  the  past  twenty  years, 
the  writer  has  had  an  opportunity  to  observe  life  on  a  ranch, 
and  experience  some  of  its  exciting  adventures. 

One  day  in  the  summer  of  1891,  Dave  Drew,  our  foreman, 
Tedrow,  one  of  the  cowboys,  and  myself,  made  a  trip  into 
East  Canon  in  the  Dos  Cabezas  mountains,  in  search  of  some 
large  unbranded  calves  which  had  been  seen  running  there. 
We  rode  leisurely  along  for  some  time  and  passed  several 
small  bunches  of  cattle  without  finding  what  we  were  looking 
for.  As  we  neared  a  bend  in  the  canon,  Dave,  who  rode  in 
advance,  saw  some  cattle  lying  in  the  shade  of  a  grove  of 
live  oak  trees.  Instantly  he  spurred  his  horse  into  a  run  and 
chased  after  the  cattle  at  full  speed,  at  the  same  time  looking 
back  and  shouting  that  he  saw  two  mavericks  and  for  us  to 
hurry  up  and  help  catch  them.  It  was  a  bad  piece  of  ground 
to  cover  and  we  found  it  difficult  to  make  progress  or  to  even 


DAVE    DREW 


DOS    CABEZAS    MOUNTAINS. 


RANCH  HAPPENINGS  81 

keep  each  other  in  sight.  Tedrow  hurried  up  as  fast  as  he 
could  while  I  brought  up  the  rear. 

In  trying  to  get  through  in  the  direction  that  Dave  had 
gone,  we  tried  to  make  a  short  cut  in  order  to  gain  time,  but 
soon  found  our  way  completely  blocked  by  immense  boulders 
and  dense  thickets  of  cat-claw  bushes,  which  is  a  variety  of 
mesquite  covered  with  strong,  sharp,  curved  thorns.  We 
turned  back  to  find  a  better  road  and  after  some  time  spent 
in  hunting  an  opening  we  discovered  a  dim  trail  which  soon 
led  us  into  a  natural  park  of  level  ground  hidden  among  the 
foothills.  Here  we  found  Dave  who  alone  had  caught  and 
tied  down  both  the  calves  and  was  preparing  to  start  a  fire 
to  heat  the  branding  irons.  What  he  had  done  seemed  like 
magic  and  was  entirely  incomprehensible  to  an  inexperienced 
tenderfoot. 

Dave  explained  afterwards  that  to  be  successful  in  such  a 
race  much  depended  on  taking  the  cattle  by  surprise,  and 
then  by  a  quick,  bold  dash  start  them  running  up  the  moun- 
tain, when  it  was  possible  to  overtake  and  rope  them  ;  but  if 
once  started  to  running  down  hill  it  was  not  only  unsafe  to 
follow  on  horseback  but  in  any  event  the  cattle  were  certain 
to  escape.  Taking  them  by  surprise  seemed  to  bewilder 
them  and  before  they  could  collect  their  scattered  senses,  so 
to  speak,  and  scamper  off,  the  work  of  capture  was  done. 

Another  adventure,  which  did  not  end  so  fortunately  for 
me,  happened  in  the  fall  of  1887  when  the  country  was  yet 
comparatively  new  to  the  cattle  business.  I  rode  out  one 
day  in  company  with  a  cowboy  to  look  after  strays  and,  in- 
cidentally, to  watch  for  any  game  that  might  chance  to  cross 
our  path.  We  rode  through  seemingly  endless  meadows  of 
fine  gramma  grass  and  saw  the  sleek  cattle  feeding  on  plenty 
and  enjoying  perfect  contentment.  Game,  also,  seemed  to 
be  abundant  but  very  shy  and  as  we  were  not  particularly 


82  ARIZONA  SKETCHES 

hunting  that  kind  of  stock,  we  forebore  giving  chase  or  firing 
at  long  range. 

After  riding  about  among  the  hills  back  of  the  Pinaleno 
ranch  and  not  finding  anything  we  concluded  to  return  home. 
On  starting  back  we  separated  and  took  different  routes,  go- 
ing by  two  parallel  ravines  in  order  to  cover  more  ground  in 
our  search.  I  had  not  gone  far  until  I  found  the  cattle  we 
were  looking  for  going  to  water  on  the  home  trail.  Jogging 
on  slowly  after  them  and  enjoying  the  beauty  of  the  landscape, 
I  unexpectedly  caught  a  glimpse  of  a  deer  lying  down  under 
a  mesquite  tree  on  the  brow  of  a  distant  hill.  I  was  in  plain 
sight  of  the  deer,  which  was  either  asleep  or  heedless  of  dan- 
ger as  it  paid  no  attention  whatever  to  my  presence. 

Deer  and  antelope  soon  become  accustomed  to  horses  and 
cattle  and  often  mix  and  feed  familiarly  with  the  stock  graz- 
ing on  the  open  range.  The  deer  did  not  change  its  position 
as  I  quietly  rode  by  and  out  of  sight  behind  the  hill.  There 
I  dismounted  and  stalked  the  quarry  on  foot,  cautiously  mak- 
ing my  way  up  the  side  of  the  hill  to  a  point  where  I  would 
be  within  easy  shooting  distance.  As  I  stood  up  to  locate 
the  deer  it  jumped  to  its  feet  and  was  ready  to  make  off,  but 
before  it  could  start  a  shot  from  my  Winchester  put  a  bullet 
through  its  head,  and  it  scarcely  moved  after  it  fell.  The 
deer  was  in  good  condition  and  replenished  our  depleted 
ranch  larder  with  some  choice  venison  steaks.  The  head, 
also,  was  a  fine  one  the  horns  being  just  out  of  velvet  and 
each  antler  five  pointed,  was  saved  and  mounted. 

The  shot  and  my  lusty  halloo  soon  brought  my  cowboy 
friend  to  the  spot.  Together  we  eviscerated  the  animal  and 
prepared  to  pack  it  to  camp  on  my  horse.  As  we  were  lift- 
ing it  upon  his  back  the  bronco  gave  a  vicious  kick  which  hit 
me  in  the  left  knee  and  knocked  me  down.  The  blow,  though 
severe,  glanced  off  so  that  no  bone  was  broken.     What  made 


SHOPPING    AT   SAN    CARLOS. 


AMONG    THE    HILLS. 


RANCH  HAPPENINGS  85 

the  horse  kick  was  a  mystery  as  he  was  considered  safe  and 
had  carried  deer  on  other  occasions.  But  a  bronco,  like  a 
mule,  is  never  altogether  reliable,  particularly  as  to  the  ac- 
tion of  its  heels.  With  some  delay  in  getting  started  and  in 
somewhat  of  a  demoralized  condition  we  mounted  and  rode 
home. 

Soon  after  the  accident  I  had  a  chill  which  was  followed 
by  a  fever  and  there  was  much  pain  and  swelling  in  the  knee 
that  was  hit.  A  ranch  house,  if  it  happens  to  be  a  "  stag 
camp  "  as  ours  was,  is  a  cheerless  place  in  which  to  be  sick, 
but  everything  considered,  I  was  fortunate  in  that  it  was  not 
worse.  By  the  liberal  use  of  hot  water  and  such  other  simples 
as  the  place  afforded  I  was  soon  better  ;  but  not  until  after 
several  months'  treatment  at  home  did  the  injured  knee  fully 
recover  its  normal  condition. 

The  excitement  of  running  cattle  or  hunting  game  on  the 
open  range  in  those  days  was  mild  in  comparison  to  the  pan- 
icky feeling  which  prevailed  during  every  Indian  outbreak. 
The  experience  of  many  years  had  taught  the  people  of  Ari- 
zona what  to  expect  at  such  a  time  and  the  utter  diabolical 
wickedness  of  the  Apaches  when  out  on  the  warpath.  Dur- 
ing the  early  eighties  many  such  raids  occurred  which  were 
accompanied  by  all  the  usual  horrors  of  brutality  and  outrage 
of  which  the  Apaches  are  capable. 

When  it  became  known  in  the  fall  of  1885  that  Geronimo 
was  again  off  the  reservation  and  out  on  another  one  of  his 
bloody  raids  the  people  became  panic-stricken.  Some  left 
the  Territory  until  such  time  when  the  Indian  question  would 
be  settled  and  the  Government  could  guarantee  freedom  from 
Indian  depredations.  Those  who  remained  either  fled  to 
some  near  town  or  fort  for  protection,  or  prepared  to  defend 
themselves  in  their  own  homes  as  best  they  could. 

What  else  could  the  settlers  in  a  new  country  do  ?     They 


86  ARIZONA  SKETCHES 

had  everything  invested  in  either  mines  or  cattle  and  could 
not  afford  to  leave  their  property  without  making  some  effort 
to  save  it  even  if  it  had  to  be  done  at  the  risk  of  their  own 
lives.  They  had  no  means  of  knowing  when  or  where  the 
stealthy  Apaches  would  strike  and  could  only  wait  for  the 
time  in  uncertainty  and  suspense.  Many  who  were  in  this 
uncomfortable  predicament  managed  to  escape  any  harm,  but 
others  fell  victims  to  savage  hatred  whose  death  knell  was 
sounded  in  the  crack  of  the  deadly  rifle. 

Some  personal  experiences  may  help  to  illustrate  this  feel- 
ing of  panic,  as  I  happened  to  be  at  the  ranch  during  the  time 
and  know  how  it  was  myself. 

One  day  in  the  month  of  October,  1885,  while  Geronimo 
was  making  his  raid  through  southern  Arizona,  my  brother  and 
I  rode  through  Railroad  Pass  from  Pinaleno  ranch  to  the 
Lorentz  Place,  a  distance  of  fifteen  miles.  It  was  about  four 
o'clock  in  the  afternoon  that  we  ascended  to  the  top  of  a  hill 
to  take  observations  and  see  if  anything  was  happening  out 
of  the  ordinary.  We  saw  nothing  unusual  until  we  were 
about  to  leave  when  we  noticed  somewhat  of  a  commotion  on 
the  old  Willcox  and  Bowie  wagon  road  which  parallels  the 
Southern  Pacific  track.  The  distance  was  too  great  to  see 
distinctly  with  the  naked  eye,  but  looking  through  our  field 
glasses,  which  we  always  carried  when  out  riding,  we  could 
plainly  see  three  loaded  wagons  standing  in  the  road.  The 
drivers  had  evidently  unhitched  their  teams  and,  mounted  up- 
on the  horses'  backs,  were  riding  furiously  in  a  cloud  of  dust 
down  the  road  towards  Bowie. 

I  asked  the  Judge,  who  was  a  resident  and  supposed  to  be 
familiar  with  the  customs  of  the  country  while  I  was  only  a 
tenderfoot,  what  their  actions  meant.  He  admitted  that  he 
did  not  understand  their  conduct  unless  it  was  that  they  had 
concluded  that  they  could  not  make  Willcox  on  that  day  and 


RANCH  HAPPENINGS  87 

were  returning  to  some  favorable  camp  ground  which  they  had 
passed  on  their  way  up,  to  spend  the  night ;  but  the  manner 
of  their  going  was  certainly  peculiar.  After  watching  them 
disappear  down  the  road  we  rode  on  and  reached  our  destina- 
tion in  safety. 

The  incident  was  forgotten  until  a  few  days  later  when  we 
were  in  Willcox  a  friend  inquired  what  had  become  of  the 
Indians  which  had  lately  been  seen  on  our  range.  We  replied 
that  we  had  not  seen  any  Indians  nor  known  of  any  that  had 
been  there.  He  then  related  to  us  how  only  a  few  days  be- 
fore three  freighters  had  seen  two  Indians  ride  upon  a  hill 
and  halt.  The  sight  of  Indians  was  enough  and  their  only 
care  after  that  was  to  get  away  from  them.  They  quickly 
unhitched  their  horses  from  the  wagons  and  rode  ten  miles 
to  Bowie  where  they  gave  the  alarm  and  spent  the  night. 
The  next  morning,  having  heard  nothing  more  from  the 
Indians  during  the  night,  they  took  fresh  courage  and  ven- 
tured to  return  to  their  wagons,  which  they  found  as  they 
had  left  them  unmolested,  when  they  continued  their  journey. 

When  the  freighters  were  asked  why  they  did  not  stand 
off  the  Indians  they  said  that  they  only  had  one  gun  and  not 
knowing  how  many  more  redskins  there  might  be  decided 
that  to  retreat  was  the  better  part  of  valor.  It  was  my 
brother  and  I  whom  they  had  seen  and  mistaken  for  Indians. 

A  few  days  after  this  event  I  had  a  similar  scare  of  my  own 
and  after  it  was  over  I  could  sympathize  with  the  poor^ 
frightened  freighters.  I  was  alone  at  the  ranch  house  pack- 
ing up  and  preparing  to  leave  for  home.  While  thus  occupied 
I  chanced  to  go  to  the  open  door  and  looking  out,  to  my  dis- 
may, I  saw  Indians.  ''  My  heart  jumped  into  my  mouth  " 
and  for  a  moment  I  felt  that  my  time  had  surely  come.  Two 
men  were  seen  riding  horseback  over  the  foot  hills  followed 
by  a  pack  animal.     As  I  stood  watching  them  and  took  time 


88  ARIZONA  SKETCHES 

to  think,  it  occurred  to  me  that  I  might  be  mistaken,  and  that 
the  men  were  not  Indians  after  all.  As  they  drew  nearer  I 
saw  that  they  were  dressed  like  white  men  and,  therefore, 
could  not  be  Indians ;  but  my  scare  while  it  lasted  was  pain- 
fully real.  The  men  proved  to  be  two  neighboring  ranchmen 
who  were  out  looking  for  lost  cattle. 

In  this  raid,  the  Apaches,  after  leaving  their  reservation 
in  the  White  mountains,  traveled  south  along  the  Arizona 
and  New  Mexico  line,  killing  people  as  they  went,  until  they 
reached  Stein's  Pass.  From  there  they  turned  west,  crossed 
the  San  Simon  valley  and  disappeared  in  the  Chiricahua 
mountains.  When  next  seen  they  had  crossed  over  the 
mountains  and  attacked  Riggs'  ranch  in  Pinery  canon,  where 
they  wounded  a  woman,  but  were  driven  off. 

The  next  place  that  they  visited  was  the  Sulphur  Spring 
ranch  of  the  Chiricahua  Cattle  Company,  where  they  stole  a 
bunch  of  horses.  The  cowboys  at  the  ranch  had  received 
warning  that  there  were  Indians  about  and  had  brought  in 
the  horse  herd  from  the  range  and  locked  them  in  the  corral. 
The  Apaches  came  in  the  night  and  with  their  usual  adroit- 
ness and  cunning  stole  the  corral  empty.  The  first  intimation 
which  the  inmates  had  that  the  ranch  had  been  robbed  was 
when  the  cowboys  went  in  the  morning  to  get  their  horses 
they  found  them  gone. 

From  the  Sulphur  Spring  ranch  they  crossed  the  Sulphur 
Spring  valley  in  the  direction  of  Cochise's  stronghold  in  the 
Dragoon  mountains.  Before  reaching  the  mountains  they 
passed  Mike  Noonan's  ranch  where  they  shot  its  owner,  who 
was  a  lone  rancher  and  had  lived  alone  in  the  valley  many 
years.  He  was  found  dead  in  his  dooryard  with  a  bullet  hole 
in  the  back  of  his  head.  He  evidently  did  not  know  that  the 
Indians  were  near  and  was  seemingly  unconscious  of  any 
danger  when  he  was  killed. 


RANCH   HAPPENINGS  89 

The  Indians  were  not  seen  again  after  entering  the  strong- 
hold until  they  crossed  the  line  into  Mexico,  where  they  were 
pursued  by  United  States  soldiers.  After  a  long,  stern  chase 
Geronimo  surrendered  himself  and  followers  to  General  Miles, 
who  brought  them  back  to  Arizona.  As  prisoners  they  were 
all  loaded  into  cars  at  Bowie  and  taken  to  Florida.  The 
general  in  command  thought  it  best  to  take  them  clear  out 
of  the  country  in  order  to  put  an  effectual  stop  to  their 
marauding.  Later  they  were  removed  to  the  Indian  Terri- 
tory where  they  now  live. 

The  rest  of  the  Apaches  remain  in  Arizona  and  live  on  the 
San  Carlos  reservation  on  the  Gila  river  where  they  are  being 
inducted  into  civilization.  Since  the  disturbing  element 
among  them  has  been  removed  there  has  been  no  more 
trouble.  They  seem  to  have  settled  down  with  a  sincere 
purpose  to  learn  the  white  man's  way  and  are  quiet  and  peace- 
able. They  are  laborers,  farmers  and  stockmen  and  are  mak- 
ing rapid  progress  in  their  new  life. 


go  ARIZONA  SKETCHES 


CHAPTER  Vn 


A  MODEL  RANCH 


ANY  one  who  has  been  in  Arizona  and  failed  to  visit 
the  Sierra  Bonita  ranch  missed  seeing  a  model  ranch. 
^  Henry  C.  Hooker,  the  owner  of  this  splendid  prop- 
erty, was  born  in  New  England  and  is  a  typical  Yankee,  who 
early  emigrated  west  and  has  spent  most  of  his  life  on  the 
frontier. 

He  went  to  Arizona  at  the  close  of  the  Civil  War  and  en- 
gaged in  contracting  for  the  Government  and  furnishing  sup- 
plies to  the  army.  It  was  before  the  days  of  railroads  when 
all  merchandise  was  hauled  overland  in  wagons  and  cattle 
were  driven  through  on  foot.  He  outfitted  at  points  in 
Texas  and  on  the  Rio  Grande  and  drove  his  cattle  and  wagons 
over  hundreds  of  miles  of  desert  road  through  a  country  that 
was  infested  by  hostile  Indians. 

Such  a  wild  life  was  naturally  full  of  adventures  and  in- 
volved much  hardship  and  danger.  The  venture,  however, 
prospered  and  proved  a  financial  success,  notwithstanding 
some  losses  in  men  killed,  wagons  pillaged  and  cattle  driven 
off  and  lost  by  bands  of  marauding  Apaches. 

In  his  travels  he  saw  the  advantages  that  Arizona  offered 
as  a  grazing  country,  which  decided  him  to  locate  a  ranch 
and  engage  in  the  range  cattle  business. 


A    SIERRA    BONITA    RANCH    HERD. 


COL.    HOOKER   AND    HIS    DOGS. 


A  MODEL  RANCH  93 

The  ranch  derives  its  name  from  the  Graham  or  Pinaleno 
mountains,  which  the  Indians  called  the  Sierra  Bonita  because 
of  the  many  beautiful  wild  flowers  that  grow  there.  It  is 
twenty  miles  north  of  Willcox,  a  thriving  village  on  the 
Southern  Pacific  Railroad,  and  ten  miles  south  of  Ft.  Grant, 
that  nestles  in  a  grove  of  cotton  trees  at  the  foot  of  Mt. 
Graham,  the  noblest  mountain  in  southern  Arizona. 

The  Sierra  Bonita  ranch  is  situated  in  the  famous  Sulphur 
Spring  valley  in  Cochise  County,  Arizona,  which  is,  perhaps, 
the  only  all  grass  valley  in  the  Territory.  The  valley  is 
about  twenty  miles  wide  and  more  than  one  hundred  miles 
long  and  extends  into  Mexico.  Its  waters  drain  in  opposite 
directions,  part  flowing  south  into  the  Yaqui  river,  and  part 
running  north  through  the  Aravaipa  Canon  into  the  Gila  and 
Colorado  rivers,  all  to  meet  and  mingle  again  in  the  Gulf  of 
California, 

Fine  gramma  grass  covers  the  entire  valley  and  an  under- 
ground river  furnishes  an  inexhaustible  supply  of  good  water. 
In  the  early  days  of  overland  travel  before  the  country  was 
prospected  or  any  of  its  resources  were  known,  immigrants, 
who  were  bound  for  California  by  the  Southern  route  and 
ignorant  of  the  near  presence  of  water,  nearly  perished  from 
thirst  while  crossing  the  valley. 

The  water  rises  to  within  a  few  feet  of  the  surface  and, 
since  its  discovery,  numerous  wells  have  been  dug  and  wind- 
mills and  ranch  houses  dot  the  landscape  in  all  directions  ; 
while  thousands  of  cattle  feed  and  fatten  on  the  nutritious 
gramma  grass.  Its  altitude  is  about  four  thousand  feet  above 
the  sea  and  the  climate  is  exceptionally  fine. 

The  Sierra  Bonita  ranch  is  located  on  a  natural  cienega  of 
moist  land  that  has  been  considerably  enlarged  by  artificial 
means.  In  an  average  year  the  natural  water  supply  of  the 
ranch  is  sufficient  for  all  purposes  but,  to  guard  against  any 


94  ARIZONA  SKETCHES 

possible  shortage  in  a  dry  year,  water  is  brought  from  the 
mountains  in  ditches  that  have  been  constructed  at  great 
labor  and  expense  and  is  stored  in  reservoirs,  to  be  used  as 
needed  for  watering  the  cattle  and  irrigating  the  fields.  The 
effect  of  water  upon  the  desert  soil  is  almost  magical  and, 
even  though  the  rains  fail  and  the  earth  be  parched,  on  the 
moist  land  of  the  cienega  the  fields  of  waving  grass  and  grain 
are  perennially  green. 

The  owner  has  acquired  by  location  and  purchase,  title  to 
several  thousand  acres  of  land,  that  is  all  fenced  and  much 
of  it  highly  cultivated.  It  consists  of  a  strip  of  land  one 
mile  wide  and  ten  miles  long,  which  is  doubly  valuable  be- 
cause of  its  productiveness  and  as  the  key  that  controls  a 
fine  open  range. 

The  original  herd  of  cattle  that  pastured  on  the  Sierra 
Bonita  ranch  thirty  years  ago  was  composed  of  native  scrub 
stock  from  Texas  and  Sonora.  This  undesirable  stock  was 
sold  at  the  first  opportunity,  and  the  range  re-stocked  by  an 
improved  grade  of  Durham  cattle.  The  change  was  a  long 
stride  in  the  direction  of  improvement,  but,  later  on,  another 
change  was  made  to  Herefords,  and  during  recent  years  only 
whitefaces  have  been  bred  upon  the  ranch. 

Col.  Hooker  has  a  strong  personality,  holds  decided  opin- 
ions and  believes  in  progress  and  improvement.  He  has 
spent  much  time  and  money  in  experimental  work,  and  his 
success  has  demonstrated  the  wisdom  of  his  course.  Just 
such  men  are  needed  in  every  new  country  to  develop  its 
resources  and  prove  its  worth. 

He  saw  that  the  primitive  methods  of  ranching  then  in 
vogue  must  be  improved,  and  began  to  prepare  for  the  change 
which  was  coming.  What  he  predicted  came  to  pass,  and 
the  days  of  large  herds  on  the  open  range  are  numbered. 
Many  of  them  have  already  been   sold  or  divided  up,  and  it 


LAKE  OX  THE  SIERRA  BONITA  RANCH. 


THE  GILA  RIVER. 


A  MODEL  RANCH  97 

is  a  question  of  only  a  short  time  when  the  rest  will  meet 
the  same  fate. 

When  this  is  done  there  may  be  no  fewer  cattle  than  there 
are  now,  but  they  will  be  bunched  in  smaller  herds  and  bet- 
ter cared  for.  Scrubs  of  any  kind  are  always  undesirable, 
since  it  has  been  proved  that  quality  is  more  profitable  than 
quantity.  A  small  herd  is  more  easily  handled,  and  there  is 
less  danger  of  loss  from  straying  or  steaHng. 

The  common  method  of  running  cattle  on  the  open  range 
is  reckless  and  wasteful  in  the  extreme  and  entirely  inexcusa- 
ble. The  cattle  are  simply  turned  loose  to  rustle  for  them- 
selves. No  provision  whatever  is  made  for  their  welfare, 
except  that  they  are  given  the  freedom  of  the  range  to  find 
water,  if  they  can,  and  grass  that  often  affords  them  only 
scant  picking. 

Under  the  new  regime  the  cattle  are  carefully  fed  and 
watered,  if  need  be  in  a  fenced  inclosure,  that  not  only  gives  the 
cattle  humane  treatment  but  also  makes  money  for  the  owner. 
The  men  are  instructed  to  bring  in  every  sick  or  weak  ani- 
mal found  on  the  range  and  put  it  into  a  corral  or  pasture, 
where  it  is  nursed  back  to  life.  If  an  orphan  calf  is  found 
that  is  in  danger  of  starving  it  is  picked  up,  carried  home 
and  fed.  On  the  average  ranch  foundlings  and  weaklings 
get  no  attention  whatever,  but  are  left  in  their  misery  to 
pine  away  and  perish  from  neglect.  The  profit  of  caring  for 
the  weak  and  sick  animals  on  the  Sierra  Bonita  ranch  amounts 
to  a  large  sum  every  year,  which  the  owner  thinks  is  worth 
saving. 

Another  peculiarity  of  ranch  life  is  that  where  there  are 
hundreds  or,  perhaps,  thousands  of  cows  in  a  herd,  not  a 
single  cow  is  milked,  nor  is  a  cup  of  milk  or  pound  of  butter 
ever  seen  upon  the  ranch  table.  It  is  altogether  different 
on  Hooker's  ranch.     There  is  a  separate  herd  of  milch  cows 


98  ARIZONA  SKETCHES 

in  charge  of  a  man  whose  duty  it  is  to  keep  the  table  sup- 
plied with  plenty  of  fresh  milk  and  butter.  No  milk  ever 
goes  to  waste.  If  there  is  a  surplus  it  is  fed  to  the  calves, 
pigs  and  poultry. 

During  the  branding  season  the  work  of  the  round-up  is 
all  done  in  corrals  instead  of,  as  formerly,  out  upon  the  open 
range.  Each  calf  after  it  is  branded,  if  it  is  old  and  strong 
enough  to  wean,  is  taken  from  the  cow  and  turned  into  a 
separate  pasture.  It  prevents  the  weak  mother  cow  from 
being  dragged  to  death  by  a  strong  sucking  calf  and  saves 
the  pampered  calf  from  dying  of  blackleg  by  a  timely  change 
of  diet. 

Instead  of  classing  the  cattle  out  on  the  open  range  as  is 
the  usual  custom,  by  an  original  system  of  corrals,  gates  and 
chutes  the  cattle  are  much  more  easily  and  quickly  classified 
without  any  cruelty  or  injury  inflicted  upon  either  man  or 
beast.  Classing  cattle  at  a  round-up  by  the  old  method  is  a 
hard  and  often  cruel  process,  that  requires  a  small  army  of 
both  men  and  horses  and  is  always  rough  and  severe  on  the 
men,  horses  and  cattle. 

Besides  the  herds  of  sleek  cattle,  there  are  also  horses 
galore,  enough  to  do  all  of  the  work  on  the  ranch  as  well  as 
for  pleasure  riding  and  driving.  There  is  likewise  a  kennel 
of  fine  grayhounds  that  are  the  Colonel's  special  pride.  His 
cattle,  horses  and  dogs  are  all  of  the  best,  as  he  believes  in 
thoroughbreds  and  has  no  use  whatever  for  scrubs  of  either 
the  human  or  brute  kind. 

The  dogs  are  fond  of  their  master  and  lavish  their  caresses 
on  him  with  almost  human  affection.  In  the  morning  when 
they  meet  him  at  the  door  Ketchum  pokes  his  nose  into 
one  of  his  master's  half  open  hands  and  Killum  performs 
the  same  act  with  the  other  hand.  Blackie  nips  him  play- 
fully on  the  leg  while  Dash  and  the  rest  of  the  pack  race 


A    BUNCH    OF    HOOKER    HORSES. 


A    STUDY    IN    FACES. 


A  MODEL  RANCH  101 

about  like  mad,  trying  to  express  the  exuberance  of  their 
joy. 

In  the  bunch  is  little  Bob,  the  fox  terrier,  who  tries  hard 
but  is  not  always  able  to  keep  up  with  the  hounds  in  a  race. 
He  is  active  and  gets  over  the  ground  lively  for  a  small  dog, 
but  in  a  long  chase  is  completely  distanced  and  outclassed 
to  his  apparent  disgust.  Aside  from  the  fine  sport  that  the 
dogs  afford,  they  are  useful  in  keeping  the  place  clear  of  all 
kinds  of  "  varmints  "  such  as  coyotes,  skunks  and  wild  cats. 

How  much  Col.  Hooker  appreciates  his  dogs  is  best  illus- 
trated by  an  incident.  One  morning  after  greeting  the  dogs 
at  the  door,  he  was  heard  to  remark  sotto  voce. 

"  Well,  if  everybody  on  the  ranch  is  cross,  my  dogs  always 
greet  me  with  a  smile." 

There  appears  to  be  much  in  the  dog  as  well  as  in  the 
horse  that  is  human,  and  the  trio  are  capable  of  forming 
attachments  for  each  other  that  only  death  can  part. 

The  ranch  house  is  a  one-story  adobe  structure  built  in 
the  Spanish  style  of  a  rectangle,  with  all  the  doors  opening 
upon  a  central  court.  It  is  large  and  commodious,  is  ele- 
gantly furnished  and  supplied  with  every  modern  convenience. 
It  affords  every  needed  comfort  for  a  family  and  is  in  strik- 
ing contrast  with  the  common  ranch  house  of  the  range  that 
is  minus  every  luxury  and  often  barely  furnishes  the  neces- 
saries of  life. 


102  ARIZONA  SKETCHES 


CHAPTER  VIII 

SOME  DESERT  PLANTS 

MUCH  of  the  vegetation  that  is  indigenous  to  the 
southwest  is  unique  and  can  only  be  seen  at  its  best 
in  the  Gila  valley  in  southern  Arizona.  The  locality 
indicated  is  in  the  arid  zone  and  is  extremely  hot  and  dry. 
Under  such  conditions  it  is  but  natural  to  suppose  that  all 
plant  life  must  necessarily  be  scant  and  dwarfed,  but  such  is 
not  the  fact.  Upon  the  contrary  many  of  the  plants  that 
are  native  to  the  soil  and  adapted  to  the  climate  grow  luxuri- 
antly, are  remarkably  succulent  and  perennially  green. 

How  they  manage  to  acquire  so  much  sap  amidst  the  sur- 
rounding siccity  is  inexplicable,  unless  it  is  that  they  possess 
the  function  of  absorbing  and  condensing  moisture  by  an  un- 
usual and  unknown  method.  It  is,  however,  a  beneficent 
provision  of  nature  as  a  protection  against  famine  in  a 
droughty  land  by  furnishing,  in  an  acceptable  form,  refresh- 
ing juice  and  nutritious  pulp  to  supply  the  pressing  wants  of 
hungry  and  thirsty  man  and  beast  in  time  of  need. 

Another  peculiarity  of  these  plants  is  that  they  are  acana- 
ceous ;  covered  all  over  with  sharp  thorns  and  needles.  Spikes 
of  all  sorts  and  sizes  bristle  everywhere  and  admonish  the 
tenderfoot  to  beware.  Guarded  by  an  impenetrable  armor  of 
prickly  mail  they  defy  encroachment  and  successfully  repel 


WILLCOX,  ARIZONA. 


ON    THE    VERDI    RIVER. 


SOME  DESERT  PLANTS  105 

all  attempts  at  undue  familiarity.  To  be  torn  by  a  cat-claw 
thorn  or  impaled  on  a  stout  dagger  leaf  of  one  of  these  plants 
would  not  only  mean  painful  laceration  but,  perhaps,  serious 
or  even  fatal  injury.  Notwithstanding  their  formidable  and 
forbidding  appearance  they  are  nevertheless  attractive  and 
possess  some  Value  either  medicinal,  commercial  or  orna- 
mental. 

The  maguey,  or  American  aloe,  is  the  most  abundant  and 
widely  distributed  of  the  native  plants.  It  is  commonly 
known  as  mescal,  but  is  also  called  the  century  plant  from 
a  mistaken  notion  that  it  blossoms  only  once  in  a  hundred 
years.  Its  average  life,  under  normal  conditions,  is  about 
ten  years  and  it  dies  immediately  after  blossoming. 

It  attains  its  greatest  perfection  in  the  interior  of  Mexico 
where  it  is  extensively  cultivated.  It  yields  a  large  quantity 
of  sap  which  is,  by  a  simple  process  of  fermentation,  converted 
into  a  liquor  called  pulque  that  tastes  best  while  it  is  new  and  is 
consumed  in  large  quantities  by  the  populace.  Pulque  trains 
are  run  daily  from  the  mescal  plantations,  where  the  pulque 
is  made,  into  the  large  cities  to  supply  the  bibulous  inhabit- 
ants with  their  customary  beverage.  In  strength  and  effect 
it  resembles  lager  beer,  and  is  the  popular  drink  with  all  classes 
throughout  Mexico  where  it  has  been  in  vogue  for  centuries 
and  is  esteemed  as  "  the  only  drink  fit  for  thirsty  angels  and 
men." 

The  agave  is  capable  of  being  applied  to  many  domestic 
uses.  Under  the  old  dispensation  of  Indian  supremacy  it 
supplied  the  natives  their  principal  means  of  support.  Its 
sap  was  variously  prepared  and  served  as  milk,  honey,  vine- 
gar, beer  and  brandy.  From  its  tough  fiber  were  made 
thread,  rope,  cloth,  shoes  and  paper.  The  strong  flower 
stalk  was  used  in  building  houses  and  the  broad  leaves  for 
covering  them. 


106  ARIZONA  SKETCHES 

The  heart  of  the  maguey  is  saccharine  and  rich  in  nutriment. 
It  is  prepared  by  roasting  it  in  a  mescal  pit  and,  when  done, 
tastes  much  Hke  baked  squash.  It  is  highly  prized  by  the 
Indians,  who  use  it  as  their  daily  bread.  Before  the  Apaches 
were  conquered  and  herded  on  reservations  a  mescal  bake 
was  an  important  event  with  them.  It  meant  the  gathering 
of  the  clans  and  was  made  the  occasion  of  much  feasting  and 
festivity.  Old  mescal  pits  can  yet  be  found  in  some  of 
the  secluded  corners  of  the  Apache  country  that  were  once 
the  scenes  of  noisy  activity,  but  have  been  forsakeii  and  silent 
for  many  years. 

The  fiery  mescal,  a  distilled  liquor  that  is  known  to  the 
trade  as  aguardiente,  or  Mexican  brandy,  is  much  stronger 
than  pulque,  but  less  used.  Both  liquors  are  said  to  be  me- 
dicinal, and  are  reputed  to  possess  diuretic,  tonic  and  stimu- 
lant properties. 

Next  in  importance  to  the  mescal  comes  the  yucca.  There 
are  several  varieties,  but  the  palm  yucca  is  the  most  common, 
and  under  favorable  conditions  attains  to  the  proportions  of 
a  tree.  Fine  specimens  of  yucca  grow  on  the  Mojave  desert 
in  California  that  are  large  and  numerous  enough  to  form  a 
straggling  forest. 

The  tree  consists  of  a  light,  spongy  wood  that  grows  as  a 
single  stem  or  divides  into  two  or  more  branches.  Each 
branch  is  crowned  by  a  tuft  of  long,  pointed  leaves  that  grow 
in  concentric  circles.  As  the  new  leaves  unfold  on  top  the 
old  leaves  are  crowded  down  and  hang  in  loose  folds  about 
the  stem  like  a  flounced  skirt.  When  dry  the  leaves  burn 
readily,  and  are  sometimes  used  for  light  and  heat  by  lost  or 
belated  travelers.  White  threads  of  a  finer  fiber  are  de- 
tached from  the  margins  of  the  leaves  that  are  blown  by 
the  wind  into  a  fluffy  fleece,  in  which  the  little  birds  love  to 
nest. 


YUCCA, 


W^:^ 


A  MESCAL   FIELD. 


SOME  DESERT  PLANTS  109 

A  grove  of  yucca  trees  presents  a  grotesque  appearance. 
If  indistinctly  viewed  in  the  hazy  distance  they  are  easily 
mistaken  for  the  plumed  topknots  of  a  band  of  prowUng 
Apaches,  particularly  if  the  imagination  is  active  with  the 
fear  of  an  Indian  outbreak. 

The  wood  of  the  yucca  tree  has  a  commercial  value.  It 
is  cut  into  thin  sheets  by  machinery  which  are  used  for  sur- 
geon's splints,  hygienic  insoles,  tree  protectors  and  calen- 
dars. As  a  splint  it  answers  an  admirable  purpose,  being 
both  light  and  strong,  and  capable  of  being  molded  into 
any  shape  desired  after  it  has  been  immersed  in  hot  water. 
Its  pulp,  also,  makes  an  excellent  paper. 

Another  variety  of  yucca  is  the  amole,  or  soap  plant. 
Owing  to  the  peculiar  shape  of  its  leaves  it  is  also  called 
Spanish  bayonet.  Its  root  is  saponaceous,  and  is  pounded 
into  a  pulp  and  used  instead  of  soap  by  the  natives.  It 
grows  a  bunch  of  large  white  flowers,  and  matures  an  edible 
fruit  that  resembles  the  banana.  The  Indians  call  it  oosa, 
and  eat  it,  either  raw  or  roasted  in  hot  ashes. 

A  species  of  yucca  called  sotal,  or  saw-grass,  grows  plenti- 
fully in  places,  and  is  sometimes  used  as  food  for  cattle  when 
grass  is  scarce.  In  its  natural  state  it  is  inaccessible  to  cat- 
tle because  of  its  hard  and  thorny  exterior.  To  make  it 
available  it  is  cut  down  and  quartered  with  a  hoe,  when  the 
hungry  cattle  eat  it  with  avidity.  Where  the  plant  grows 
thickly  one  man  can  cut  enough  in  one  day  to  feed  several 
hundred  head  of  cattle. 

There  are  several  other  varieties  of  yucca  that  possess  no 
particular  value,  but  all  are  handsome  bloomers,  and  the  mass 
of  white  flowers  which  unfold  during  the  season  of  efflores- 
cence adds  much  to  the  beauty  of  the  landscape. 

The  prickly  pear  cactus,  or  Indian  fig,  of  the  genus  Opuntia 
is  a  common  as  well  as  a  numerous  family.     The  soil  and  cli- 


110  ARIZONA  SKETCHES 

mate  of  the  southwest  from  Texas  to  Cahfornia  seem  to  be 
just  to  its  Hking.  It  grows  rank  and  often  forms  dense 
thickets.  The  root  is  a  tough  wood  from  which,  it  is  said, 
the  best  Mexican  saddletrees  are  made. 

The  plant  consists  of  an  aggregation  of  thick,  flat,  oval 
leaves,  which  are  joined  together  by  narrow  bands  of  woody 
fiber  and  covered  with  bundles  of  fine,  sharp  needles.  Its 
pulp  is  nutritious  and  cattle  like  the  young  leaves,  but  will 
not  eat  them  after  they  become  old  and  hard  unless  driven 
to  do  so  by  the  pangs  of  hunger.  In  Texas  the  plant  is 
gathered  in  large  quantities  and  ground  into  a  fine  pulp  by 
machinery  which  is  then  mixed  with  cotton-seed  meal  and  fed 
to  cattle.  The  mixture  makes  a  valuable  fattening  ration  and 
is  used  for  finishing  beef  steers  for  the  market. 

The  cholla,  or  cane  cactus,  is  also  a  species  of  Opuntia,  but 
its  stem  or  leaf  is  long  and  round  instead  of  short  and  flat. 
It  is  thickly  covered  with  long,  fine,  silvery-white  needles 
that  glisten  in  the  sun.  Its  stem  is  hollow  and  filled  with  a 
white  pith  like  the  elder.  After  the  prickly  bark  is  stripped 
off  the  punk  can  be  picked  out  through  the  fenestra  with  a 
penknife,  which  occupation  affords  pleasant  pastime  for  a 
leisure  hour.  When  thus  furbished  up  the  unsightly  club 
becomes  an  elegant  walking  stick. 

The  cholla  is  not  a  pleasant  companion  as  all  persons  know 
who  have  had  any  experience  with  it.  Its  needles  are  not 
only  very  sharp,  but  also  finely  barbed,  and  they  penetrate 
and  cling  fast  like  a  burr  the  moment  that  they  are  touched. 
Cowboys  profess  to  believe  that  the  plant  has  some  kind  of 
sense  as  they  say  that  it  jumps  and  takes  hold  of  its  victim 
before  it  is  touched.  This  action,  however,  is  only  true  in 
the  seeming,  as  its  long  transparent  needles,  being  invisible, 
are  touched  before  they  are  seen.  When  they  catch  hold  of 
a  moving  object,  be  it  horse  or  cowboy,  an  impulse  is  im- 


SPANISH    BAYONET. 


SAGUARO. 


SOME  DESERT  PLANTS  113 

parted  to  the  plant  that  makes  it  seem  to  jump.  It  is  an  un- 
canny movement  and  is  something  more  than  an  ocular 
illusion,  as  the  victim  is  ready  to  testify. 

These  desert  plants  do  not  ordinarily  furnish  forage  for 
live  stock,  but  in  a  season  of  drought  when  other  feed  is 
scarce  and  cattle  are  starving  they  will  risk  having  their 
mouths  pricked  by  thorns  in  order  to  get  something  to  eat 
and  will  browse  on  mescal,  yucca  and  cactus  and  find  some 
nourishment  in  the  unusual  diet,  enough,  at  least,  to  keep 
them  from  dying.  The  plants  mentioned  are  not  nearly  as 
plentiful  now  as  they  once  were.  Because  of  the  prolonged 
droughts  that  prevail  in  the  range  country  and  the  overstock- 
ing of  the  range  these  plants  are  in  danger  of  being  exter- 
minated and,  if  the  conditions  do  not  soon  change,  of  be- 
coming extinct. 

The  saguaro,  or  giant  cactus,  is  one  of  nature's  rare  and 
curious  productions.  It  is  a  large,  round,  fluted  column  that 
is  from  one  to  two  feet  thick  and  sometimes  sixty  feet  high. 
The  trunk  is  nearly  of  an  even  thickness  from  top  to  bottom 
but,  if  there  is  any  difference,  it  is  a  trifle  thicker  in  the 
middle.  It  usually  stands  alone  as  a  single  perpendicular 
column,  but  is  also  found  bunched  in  groups.  If  it  has  any 
branches  they  are  apt  to  start  at  right  angles  from  about  the 
middle  of  the  tree  and  curve  upward,  paralleling  the  trunk, 
which  form  gives  it  the  appearence  of  a  mammoth  candela- 
brum. 

The  single  saguaro  pillar  bears  a  striking  resemblance  to 
a  Corinthian  column.  As  everything  in  art  is  an  attempt  to 
imitate  something  in  nature,  is  it  possible  that  Grecian  archi- 
tecture borrowed  its  notable  pattern  from  the  Gila  valley } 
Southern  Arizona  is  the  natural  home  and  exclusive  habitat 
of  this  most  singular  and  interesting  plant  and  is,  perhaps, 
the  only  thing  growing  anywhere  that  could  have  suggested 


114  ARIZONA  SKETCHES 

the  design.  Wherever  it  grows,  it  is  a  conspicuous  object 
on  the  landscape  and  has  been  appropriately  named  "  The 
Sentinel  of  the  Desert." 

Its  mammoth  body  is  supported  by  a  skeleton  of  wooden 
ribs,  which  are  held  in  position  by  a  mesh  of  tough  fibers  that 
is  filled  with  a  green  pulp.  Rows  of  thorns  extend  its  entire 
length  which  are  resinous  and,  if  ignited,  burn  with  a  bright 
flame.  They  are  sometimes  set  on  fire  and  have  been  used 
by  the  Apaches  for  making  signals.  The  cactus  tree,  like 
the  eastern  forest  tree,  is  often  found  bored  full  of  round 
holes  that  are  made  by  the  Gila  woodpecker.  When  the 
tree  dies  its  pulp  dries  up  and  blows  away  and  there  remains 
standing  only  a  spectral  figure  composed  of  white  slats  and 
fiber  that  looks  ghostly  in  the  distance. 

Its  fruit  is  delicious  and  has  the  flavor  of  the  fig  and  straw- 
berry combined.  It  is  dislodged  by  the  greedy  birds  which 
feed  on  it  and  by  arrows  shot  from  bows  in  the  hands  of  the 
Indians.  The  natives  esteem  the  fruit  as  a  great  delicacy 
and  use  it  both  fresh  and  dried  and  in  the  form  of  a  treacle 
or  preserve. 

The  ocotillo,  or  mountain  cactus,  is  a  handsome  shrub  that 
grows  in  rocky  soil  upon  the  foothills  and  consists  of  a  clus- 
ter of  nearly  straight  poles  of  brittle  wood  covered  with  thorns 
and  leaves.  It  blossoms  during  the  early  summer  and  each 
branch  bears  on  its  crest  a  bunch  of  bright  crimson  flowers. 

If  set  in  a  row  the  plant  makes  an  ornamental  hedge  and 
effective  fence  for  turning  stock.  The  seemingly  dry  sticks 
are  thrust  into  yet  drier  ground  where  they  take  root  and 
grow  without  water.  Its  bark  is  resinous  and  a  fagot  of  dry 
sticks  makes  a  torch  that  is  equal  to  a  pineknot. 

The  echinocactus,  or  bisnaga,  is  also  called  **  The  Well  of 
the  Desert."  It  has  a  large  barrel-shaped  body  which  is 
covered  with  long  spikes  that  are  curved  like  fishhooks.     It 


PALO    VERDE. 


COCONINO    FOREST. 


SOME  DESERT  PLANTS  117 

is  full  of  sap  that  is  sometimes  used  to  quench  thirst.  By 
cutting  off  the  top  and  scooping  out  a  hollow,  the  cup-shaped 
hole  soon  fills  with  a  sap  that  is  not  exactly  nectar  but  can 
be  drunk  in  an  emergency.  Men  who  have  been  in  danger 
of  perishing  from  thirst  on  the  desert  have  sometimes  been 
saved  by  this  unique  method  of  well  digging. 

Greasewood,  or  creasote  bush  as  it  is  sometimes  called  on 
account  of  its  pungent  odor,  grows  freely  on  the  desert,  but 
has  little  or  no  value  and  cattle  will  not  touch  it.  Like  many 
other  desert  plants  it  is  resinous  and  if  thrown  into  the  fire, 
the  green  leaves  spit  and  sputter  while  they  burn  like  hot 
grease  in  a  frying  pan. 

The  mesquite  tree  is  peculiarly  adapted  to  the  desert  and 
is  the  most  valuable  tree  that  grows  in  the  southwest.  As 
found  growing  on  the  dry  mesas  of  Arizona,  it  is  only  a  small 
bush,  but  on  the  moist  land  of  a  river  bottom  it  becomes  a 
large  forest  tree.  A  mesquite  forest  stands  in  the  Santa 
Cruz  valley  south  of  Tucson  that  is  a  fair  sample  of  its  growth 
under  favorable  conditions. 

Its  wood  is  hard  and  fine  grained  and  polishes  beautifully. 
It  is  very  durable  and  is  valuable  for  lumber,  fence  posts  and 
firewood.  On  the  dry  mesas  it  seems  to  go  mostly  to  root 
that  is  out  of  all  proportion  to  the  size  of  the  tree.  The 
amount  of  firewood  that  is  sometimes  obtained  by  digging 
up  the  root  of  a  small  mesquite  bush  is  astonishing. 

It  makes  a  handsome  and  ornamental  shade  tree,  having 
graceful  branches,  feathery  leaves  and  fragrant  flowers,  and 
could  be  cultivated  to  advantage  for  yard  and  park  purposes. 

Its  principal  value,  however,  lies  in  its  seed  pods,  which 
grow  in  clusters  and  look  like  string  beans.  The  mesquite 
bean  furnishes  a  superior  article  of  food  and  feeds  about 
everything  that  either  walks  or  flies  on  the  desert.  The 
Indians  make  meal  of  the  seed  and  bake  it  into  bread.     Cat- 


118  ARIZONA  SKETCHES 

tie  that  feed  on  the  open  range  will  leave  good  grass  to 
browse  on  a  mesquite  bush.  Even  as  carnivorous  a  creature 
as  the  coyote  will  make  a  full  meal  on  a  mess  of  mesquite 
beans  and  seem  to  be  satisfied.  The  tree  exudes  a  gum 
that  is  equal  to  the  gum  arable  of  commerce. 

The  palo  verde  is  a  tree  without  leaves  and  is  a  true  child 
of  the  desert.  No  matter  how  hot  and  dry  the  weather  the 
palo  verde  is  always  green  and  flourishing.  At  a  distance  it 
resembles  a  weeping  willow  tree  stripped  of  its  leaves.  Its 
numerous  long,  slender,  drooping  branches  gracefully  criss- 
cross and  interlace  in  an  intricate  figure  of  filigree  work.  It 
has  no  commercial  value,  but  if  it  could  be  successfully  trans- 
planted and  transported  it  would  make  a  desirable  addition  to 
green-house  collections  in  the  higher  latitudes. 

The  romantic  mistletoe  that  is  world  renowned  for  its 
magic  influence  in  love  affairs,  grows  to  perfection  in  southern 
Arizona.  There  are  several  varieties  of  this  parasitic  plant 
that  are  very  unlike  in  appearance.  Each  kind  partakes 
more  or  less  of  the  characteristics  of  the  tree  upon  which 
it  grows,  but  all  have  the  glossy  leaf  and  waxen  berry. 


OCOTILLO. 


MESQUITE  FOREST  NEAR  TUCSON. 


HOOKER'S  HOT  SPRINGS  121 


CHAPTER  IX 


HOOKER  S    HOT    SPRINGS 


A  RIZONA  has  several  hot  springs  within  her  borders 
/-\  but,  perhaps,  none  are  more  valuable  nor  pictur- 
-^  -^  esquely  located  than  Hooker's  hot  springs.  These 
springs  are  located  in  the  foothills  on  the  western  slope  of 
the  GaUura  mountains  in  southeastern  Arizona,  thirty-five 
miles  west  of  Willcox  on  the  Southern  Pacific  Railroad.  The 
spot  is  beautifully  situated,  commanding  an  extended  view  of 
valley  and  mountain  scenery. 

There  are  a  dozen  springs,  big  and  little,  in  the  group  and 
are  scattered  over  several  acres  of  hillside.  The  temperature 
of  the  water  is  1 30°  Fahrenheit  and  too  hot  to  drink  but,  if 
sipped  slowly,  it  makes  an  admirable  hot-water  draught. 
The  springs  evidently  have  their  source  deep  down  in  the 
earth  and  the  flow  of  water  never  varies.  When  the  water 
from  the  different  springs  is  all  united  it  forms  a  good  sized 
brook.  The  water  is  conducted  through  pipes  into  the  bath 
house,  where  it  supplies  a  row  of  bath-tubs  with  water  of  any 
desired  temperature.  The  surplus  water  flows  into  a  large 
earthern  tank  or  artificial  lake  and  is  used  for  irrigating  a 
small  farm  that  produces  grain,  fruits  and  vegetables. 

The  water  from  these  springs  is  in  great  demand  and  is 
not  only  sought  by  the  human  biped,  but  is  also  in  favor  with 


122  ARIZONA  SKETCHES 

the  equine  quadruped.  Every  morning  after  the  stable  doors 
are  thrown  open  and  the  horses  turned  loose  they  invariably, 
of  their  own  accord,  proceed  to  the  lake,  wade  out  into  shal- 
low water  and  take  a  bath.  They  lie  down  and  splash  the 
water  about  like  a  lot  of  schoolboys  taking  a  swim. 

The  water  from  all  the  springs  is  perfectly  soft  and  pure. 
It  cannot  be  called  a  mineral  water,  as  an  analysis  shows  that 
it  contains  only  a  trace  of  any  kind  of  mineral  matter.  This 
peculiarity  of  the  water  is  no  damage  to  the  springs,  since 
purity  is  the  best  recommendation  that  any  water  can  have. 
Water  that  is  heavily  mineralized  may  be  medicinal,  but  is 
not  necessarily  remedial,  or  even  wholesome,  notwithstand- 
ing the  popular  belief  to  the  contrary.  Water  that  is  charged 
with  much  mineral  is  spoiled  for  drinking.  Moderately  hard 
water  need  not  be  injurious  to  anybody,  but. is  especially  bene- 
ficial to  children.  The  assimilative  function  in  the  child  ap- 
propriates mineral  water  tardily  and  sometimes  absorbs  it 
altogether  too  slowly  for  the  child's  good.  Its  absence  in 
the  system  causes  a  disease  called  rickets,  in  which,  from  a 
lack  of  lime,  the  bones  of  the  child  become  soft  and  yield- 
ing. The  bones  of  a  rickety  child  will  bend  rather  than 
break.     It  is  slow  to  walk  and  inclines  to  become  bow-legged. 

It  is  entirely  different  in  old  age.  As  the  years  multiply 
the  system  absorbs  an  abnormal  and  ever  increasing  amount 
of  calcareous  matter.  The  bones  become  unduly  hard  and 
brittle  and  are  easily  broken.  Bony  matter  is  liable  to  be 
deposited  in  and  about  the  joints,  when  they  become  stiff 
and  painful.  It  also  lodges  in  the  various  soft  tissues  of  the 
body,  and  ossification  of  the  valves  of  the  heart  and  walls  of 
the  arteries  sometimes  happens.  It  weakens  the  blood  ves- 
sels so  that  they  easily  rupture,  which  causes  apoplexy,  paral- 
ysis and  death.  Calcareous  concretions  in  the  kidneys  and 
bladder,  also,  come  from  the  same  cause,  and  are  called  gravel. 


A   HOT   WATER   DRAUGHT. 


".^fe 


hooker's  hot  springs. 


HOOKER'S  HOT  SPRINGS  125 

Such  deposits  are  not  only  annoying  and  painful  to  the  pa- 
tient, but  in  time  may  prove  fatal  if  not  removed  by  surgery. 

Middle-aged  and  elderly  people  should  never  drink  any- 
thing but  soft  water.  If  a  natural  supply  of  soft  w^ater  can- 
not be  obtained  distilled  water  should  be  substituted.  If 
neither  natural  soft  water  nor  distilled  water  are  available, 
and  there  is  doubt  as  to  the  purity  of  the  water  that  is  being 
used,  it  should  be  boiled  and  then  let  stand  to  cool  and  set- 
tle. Boiling  not  only  destroys  and  renders  harmless  any  or- 
ganic germs  that  may  be  present,  but  also  precipitates  and 
eliminates  much  of  its  inorganic  salts. 

A  few  drops  of  a  weak  solution  of  nitrate  of  silver  added 
to  a  glass  of  water  will  quickly  determine  its  quality.  If  the 
water  that  is  being  tested  is  free  from  mineral  matter  no 
change  is  produced,  but  if  it  contains  mineral  it  turns  the 
water  opaque  or  milky. 

The  value  of  mineral  water  as  a  healthful  or  necessary 
drink  has  been  greatly  exaggerated.  While  it  may  do  good 
in  some  instances,  it  is  not  nearly  as  beneficial  as  is  com- 
monly supposed.  Instead  of  it  always  doing  good  the  con- 
trary is  often  true. 

If  a  mineral  water  is  desired  there  is  no  necessity  of  visit- 
ing a  mineral  spring  to  obtain  it,  as  it  can  be  made  artificially 
at  home  or  at  the  nearest  pharmacy  in  any  quantity  or  of  any 
quality  desired,  with  the  additional  advantage  of  having  it 
contain  exactly  the  ingredients  wanted.  There  are  nearly  as 
many  mineral  waters  on  the  market  as  there  are  patent  medi- 
cines, and  both  are  about  equally  misrepresented  and  de- 
ceiving. All  classes  of  people  would  undoubtedly  be  greatly 
benefited  in  health,  strength  and  longevity  if  more  attention 
was  given  to  the  quality  of  our  domestic  water  supply.  Any 
one  who  needs  a  change,  other  things  being  equal,  should 
seek  a  resort  that  furnishes  pure,   soft  water  rather  than 


126  ARIZONA  SKETCHES 

choose  a  spring  that  only  boasts  of  its  mineral  properties. 
Not  all  of  the  benefit  that  is  derived  from  a  course  at  a 
watering  place  is  due  to  the  virtues  of  the  water,  be  it  ever 
so  potent.  The  change  of  environment,  climate,  diet,  bath- 
ing, etc.,  are  each  factors  that  contribute  something  towards 
a  cure. 

Next  to  using  pure  water  as  a  beverage  it  is  important  to 
know  how  to  bathe  properly,  such  knowledge  being  simple  and 
plain  enough  if  only  common  sense  is  used.  Usually  the 
more  simply  a  bath  is  administered  the  better  are  the  results. 
Some  people  seem  to  think  that  in  order  to  derive  any  bene- 
fit from  a  bath  it  is  necessary  to  employ  some  unusual  or 
complicated  process.  Nothing  is  further  from  the  truth. 
The  plain,  tepid  bath  is  the  best  for  general  use.  It  thoroughly 
cleanses  the  body  and  produces  no  unpleasant  shock.  A  hot 
bath  is  rarely  needed  but,  if  it  is  used,  enough  time  should 
be  given  after  it  to  rest  and  cool  off  before  going  out  into 
the  open  air  in  order  to  avoid  taking  cold.  The  good  or 
harm  of  a  bath  must  be  judged  by  its  effects. 

A  bath  IS  only  beneficial  when  it  is  followed  by  a  healthy 
reaction,  which  is  indicated  by  an  agreeable  feeling  of  warmth 
and  comfort,  and  is  injurious  if  the  subject  feels  cold,  weak 
or  depressed.  A  bath  does  not  affect  all  people  alike  ;  what 
will  do  one  person  good  may  injure  another.  It  is  never 
wise  to  prescribe  a  stereotyped  treatment  for  every  patient. 
The  disease,  temperament  and  constitution  of  each  individual 
must  be  taken  into  account  and  the  temperature  and  frequency 
of  the  bath  must  be  determined  and  regulated  by  the  neces- 
sity and  idiosyncrasies  of  each  case.  The  amount  of  bathing 
that  a  strong,  full-blooded  person  could  endure  would  mop  out 
the  life  of  a  thin,  bloodless  weakling. 

Locally,  these  springs  have  become  famous  because  of  the 
remarkable  cures  they  have  effected,  and  are  sought  by  many 


THE  MORNING  BATH. 


A  QUIET    NOOK. 


HOOKER'S  HOT  SPRINGS  129 

sick  people  who  have  failed  to  find  relief  by  other  means. 
Before  the  white  man  came  the  Indians  used  the  water  for 
curing  their  sick.  The  water  is  curative  in  rheumatism, 
neuralgia,  dyspepsia,  blood  and  skin  disorders  and  kidney 
complaint.  The  water  cure  is  all  right  even  if  it  does  not  al- 
ways fulfill  every  expectation. 

Hooker's  hot  springs  is  a  pleasant  place  to  visit  for  people 
who  are  not  invalids.  It  is  off  the  beaten  path  of  travel  and 
is  an  ideal  spot  for  the  tired  man  who  needs  a  rest.  It  has 
not  yet  been  overrun  by  the  crowd,  but  retains  all  of  the 
natural  charm  of  freshness  which  the  old  resorts  have  lost. 
Here  nature  riots  in  all  of  her  wild  beauty  and  has  not  yet 
been  perceptibly  marred  by  the  despoiling  hand  of  man. 

Aside  from  the  luxury  of  the  baths  which  the  place  affords 
the  visitor  can  find  a  great  deal  to  please  him.  The  climate 
is  healthful  and  the  weather  pleasant  during  most  of  the  year. 
In  the  near  vicinity  much  can  be  found  in  nature  that  is  in- 
teresting. Never-failing  mountain  streams,  deep  canons  and 
dark  forests  wait  to  be  visited  and  explored,  while  curiosities 
in  animal  and  vegetable  life  abound.  Not  far  off  is  a  place 
where  perfect  geodes  of  chalcedony  are  found. 

Mining  and  ranching  are  the  leading  industries  of  the 
country  and  a  visit  to  some  neighboring  mine  or  cattle  ranch 
is  not  without  interest  to  the  novice.  But,  if  he  starts  out 
on  such  a  trip  he  must  decide  to  make  a  day  of  it,  as  the 
country  is  sparsely  settled  and  the  distances  long  between 
camps.  If  the  accommodations  where  he  stops  are  not  al- 
ways luxurious  the  welcome  is  cordial  and  the  entertainment 
comfortable.  The  new  experience  is  also  delightfully  roman- 
tic. 


130  ARIZONA  SKETCHES 


CHAPTER  X 

CANON  ECHOES 

THE  Colorado  Plateau,  in  northern  Arizona,  is  the 
union  of  the  Rocky  and  Sierra  Nevada  mountains 
in  their  southward  trend,  and  forms  the  southern 
rim  of  the  Great  Basin.  'This  depression  was  once  a  vast 
inland  sea,  of  which  nothing  remains  but  the  Salt  Lake  of 
Utah,  and  is  drained  by  the  Colorado  river.  The  entire 
plateau  region  is  remarkable  for  its  grand  scenery — abysmal 
chasms,  sculptured  buttes  and  towering  cliffs,  which  are 
"  brightly  colored  as  if  painted  by  artist  Gods,  not  stained 
and  daubed  by  inharmonious  hues  but  beautiful  as  flowers 
and  gorgeous  as  the  clouds."  The  plateau  is  an  immense 
woodland  of  pines  known  as  the  Coconino  Forest. 

The  San  Francisco  mountains,  nearly  thirteen  thousand 
feet  high,  stand  in  the  middle  of  the  plateau  which  is,  also, 
the  center  of  an  extensive  extinct  volcanic  field.  The  whole 
country  is  covered  with  cinders  which  were  thrown  from  ac- 
tive volcanoes  centuries  ago.  The  track  of  the  Santa  Fe 
Pacific  railroad,  clear  across  Arizona,  is  ballasted  with  cinders 
instead  of  gravel  that  were  dug  from  pits  on  its  own  right  of 
way. 

Near  the  southern  base  of  the  San  Francisco  mountains 
is  the  town  of  Flagstaff  built  in  a  natural  forest  of  pine  trees. 


ON  THE  GRAND  VIEW  TRAIL. 


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CANON  ECHOES  133 

It  is  sometimes  called  the  Skylight  City  because  of  its  high 
altitude,  rarefied  atmosphere  and  brilliant  sky.  It  is  said  to 
have  been  named  by  a  company  of  soldiers  who  camped  on 
the  spot  while  out  hunting  Indians,  when  the  country  was 
new.  It  happened  to  be  on  the  Fourth  of  July  and  they 
celebrated  the  day  by  unfurling  Old  Glory  from  the  top  of  a 
pine  tree,  which  was  stripped  of  its  branches  and  converted 
into  a  flagstaff.  Here  is  located  the  Lowell  Observatory, 
which  has  made  many  valuable  discoveries  in  astronomy.  It 
is  a  delightful  spot  and  offers  many  attractions  to  the  scientist, 
tourist  and  health  seeker. 

One  of  the  many  interesting  objects  of  this  locality  is  the 
Ice  Cave  situated  eight  miles  southwest  of  the  town.  It  not 
only  attracts  the  curious,  but  its  congealed  stores  are  also 
drawn  on  by  the  people  who  live  in  the  vicinity  when  the 
domestic  ice  supply  runs  short.  The  cave  is  entered  from 
the  side  of  a  ravine  and  its  opening  is  arched  by  lava  rock. 
How  the  ice  ever  got  there  is  a  mystery  unless  it  is,  as  Mr. 
Volz  claims,  glacial  ice  that  was  covered  and  preserved  by 
a  thick  coat  of  cinders  which  fell  when  the  San  Francisco 
peaks  were  in  active  eruption.  As  far  as  observed  the  ice 
never  becomes  more  nor  ever  gets  less,  except  what  is  re- 
moved by  mining. 

The  region  is  unusually  attractive  to  the  naturalist.  It  is 
the  best  field  for  the  study  of  entomology  that  is  knov/n. 
But  all  nature  riots  here.  Dr.  C.  Hart  Merriam,  in  his  re- 
port of  a  biological  survey  of  the  San  Francisco  mountains 
and  Painted  Desert,  states  that  there  are  seven  distinct  life 
zones  in  a  radius  of  twenty-five  miles  running  the  entire  gamut 
from  the  Arctic  to  the  Tropic*     The  variety  of  life  which 


*  Results  of  a  Biological  Survey  of  the  San  Francisco  Mountain  Region  and 
Painted  Desert  of  the  Little  Colorado,  Arizona.     1890. 


134  ARIZONA  SKETCHES 

he  found  and  describes  cannot  be  duplicated  in  the  same 
space  anywhere  else  upon  the  globe. 

But  the  greatest  natural  wonder  of  this  region  and,  it  is 
claimed  by  competent  judges  of  the  whole  world,  is  the  Grand 
Canon  of  Arizona,  which  is  seventy-two  miles  north  of  Flag- 
staff. Thurber's  stage  line,  when  it  was  running,  carried 
passengers  through  in  one  day,  but  after  the  railroad  was 
built  from  Williams  to  Bright  Angel  the  stage  was  abandoned. 
However  it  is  an  interesting  trip  and  many  people  make  it 
every  summer  by  private  conveyance  who  go  for  an  outing 
and  can  travel  leisurely.  It  is  a  good  natural  road  and  runs 
nearly  the  entire  distance  through  an  open  pine  forest. 

Two  roads  leave  Flagstaff  for  the  Canon  called  respectively 
the  summer  and  winter  roads.  The  former  goes  west  of  the 
San  Francisco  mountains  and  intersects  with  the  winter  road 
that  runs  east  of  the  peaks  at  Cedar  Ranch,  which  was  the  mid- 
way station  of  the  old  stage  line.  The  summer  road  is  the  one 
usually  travelled,  as  the  winter  road  is  almost  destitute  of 
water. 

The  road  ascends  rapidly  from  an  elevation  of  seven  thou- 
sand feet  at  Flagstaff  to  eleven  thousand  feet  at  the  summit, 
and  descends  more  gradually  to  Cedar  Ranch,  where  the  eleva- 
tion is  less  than  five  thousand  feet  and  in  distance  is  about  half 
way  to  the  Canon.  Here  cedar  and  pinon  trees  take  the  place 
of  the  taller  pines.  Cedar  Ranch  is  on  an  arm  of  the  Painted 
Desert,  which  stretches  away  towards  the  east  over  a  wide  level 
plain  to  the  horizon.  From  this  point  the  road  ascends  again  on 
an  easy  grade  until  it  reaches  an  elevation  of  eight  thousand  feet 
at  the  Canon. 

During  the  long  drive  through  the  pine  woods  the  appear- 
ance of  the  country  gives  no  hint  of  a  desert,  but  beautiful 
scenery  greets  the  eye  on  every  hand.  The  air  is  filled  with 
the  fragrance  of  pine  and  ozone  that  is  as  exhilaratmg  as 


GRAND   VIEW   HOTEL. 


THURBER  S  STAGE  CAMP. 


CANON  ECHOES  137 

wine.  No  signs  of  severe  windstorms  are  seen  in  broken 
branches  and  fallen  trees.  If  an  occasional  tree  is  found  ly- 
ing prostrate  it  was  felled  either  by  the  woodman's  ax  or  one 
of  nature's  destructive  forces,  fire  or  decay,  or  both.  But  the 
large  number  of  shattered  trees  which  are  encountered  dur- 
ing the  day  give  evidence  that  the  lightning  is  frequently 
very  destructive  in  its  work.  The  bark  of  the  pine  trees  is 
of  a  reddish  gray  color,  which  contrasts  brightly  with  the  green 
foliage. 

The  winter  road  furnishes  even  more  attractions  than  the 
summer  road  on  which  line  a  railroad  should  be  built  through 
to  the  Canon.  Soon  after  leaving  town  a  side  road  leads  to 
the  cliff  dwellings  in  Walnut  Canon.  Along  the  wayside  a 
signboard  points  the  direction  to  the  Bottomless  Pit,  which 
is  a  deep  hole  in  the  ground  that  is  only  one  of  many  such 
fissures  in  the  earth  found  on  the  Colorado  Plateau.  Four 
miles  east  of  Canon  Diablo  a  narrow  fissure  from  a  few  inches 
to  several  feet  wide  and  hundreds  of  feet  deep  has  been 
traced  in  a  continuous  line  over  one  hundred  miles. 

Further  on  a  group  of  cave  dwellings  can  be  seen  among 
the  rocks  upon  a  distant  hill.  A  turn  in  the  road  next  brings 
the  Sunset  Mountain  into  view.  Its  crest  glows  with  the 
colors  of  sunset,  which  unusual  effect  is  produced  by  colored 
rocks  that  are  of  volcanic  origin.  Black  cinders  cover  its 
steep  sides  and  its  brow  is  the  rim  of  a  deep  crater.  Between 
Sunset  Peak  and  O'Leary  Peak  is  the  Black  Crater  from 
which  flowed  at  one  time  thick  streams  of  black  lava  that 
hardened  into  rock  and  are  known  as  the  lava  beds.  Scores 
of  crater  cones  and  miles  of  black  cinders  can  be  seen  from 
Sunset  Mountain,  and  lava  and  cinders  of  this  region  look  as 
fresh  as  if  an  eruption  had  occurred  but  yesterday. 

A  peculiarity  of  the  pine  trees  which  grow  in  the  cinders 
is  that  their  roots  do  not  go  down  but  spread  out  upon  the 


138  ARIZONA  SKETCHES 

surface.  Some  of  the  roots  are  entirely  bare  while  others  are 
half  buried  in  cinders.  They  are  from  an  inch  to  a  foot  thick 
and  from  ten  to  fifty  feet  long,  according  to  the  size  of  the 
tree  which  they  support.  The  cause  of  the  queer  root  for- 
mation is  not  apparent. 

The  whole  plateau  country  is  scarce  of  water.  The  Grand 
Canon  drains  the  ground  dry  to  an  unusual  depth.  The 
nearest  spring  of  water  to  the  Canon  at  Grand  View  is  Cedar 
Spring,  forty  miles  distant.  Until  recently  all  the  water  used 
at  the  canon  was  either  packed  upon  burros  from  springs  down 
in  the  canon  or  caught  in  ponds  or  reservoirs  from  rains  or 
melted  snow.  Since  the  completion  of  the  railroad  the  water 
is  hauled  in  on  cars  constructed  for  that  purpose. 

The  watershed  of  the  canon  slopes  away  from  the  rim  and 
instead  of  the  storm  water  running  directly  into  the  river  it 
flows  in  the  opposite  direction.  Only  after  a  long  detour  of 
many  miles  does  it  finally  reach  the  river  by  the  Little  Col- 
orado or  Cataract  Creek. 

Now  that  the  Grand  Canon  is  made  accessible  by  rail  over 
a  branch  road  of  the  Santa  Fe  from  Williams  on  the  main 
line,  it  is  reached  in  comparative  ease  and  comfort.  But  to 
stop  at  the  Bright  Angel  Hotel  and  look  over  the  guard  rail 
on  the  cliff  down  into  the  canon  gives  merely  a  glimpse  of 
what  there  is  to  see.  A  brief  stay  of  one  day  is  better  than 
not  stopping  at  all,  but  to  get  even  an  inkling  of  its  greatness 
and  grandeur  days  and  weeks  must  be  spent  in  making  trips 
up  and  down  and  into  the  canon. 

After  having  seen  the  canon  at  Bright  Angel  the  next  move 
should  be  to  go  to  Grand  View  fourteen  miles  up  the  caiion. 
An  all  day's  stage  ride  from  Flagstaff  to  the  canon  was  tire- 
some, but  the  two  hours'  drive  through  the  pine  woods  from 
Bright  Angel  to  Grand  View  is  only  pleasant  recreation. 

Seeing  the  Grand  Canon  for  the  first  time  does  not  neces- 


SUNSET    MOUNTAIN. 


LOOKING  INTO  THE  GRAND  CANON. 


CANON  ECHOES  141 

sarily  produce  the  startling  and  lachrymose  effects  that  have 
been  described  by  some  emotional  writers,  but  the  first  sight 
never  disappoints  and  always  leaves  a  deep  and  lasting  im- 
pression. 

As  immense  as  is  the  great  chasm  it  is  formed  in  such 
harmonious  proportions  that  it  does  not  shock  the  senses. 
But  as  everything  about  the  canon  is  built  on  such  a  grand 
scale  and  the  eyes  not  being  accustomed  to  such  sights  it  is 
impossible  to  comprehend  it — to  measure  its  dimensions  cor- 
rectly or  note  every  detail  of  form  and  color  at  the  first  glance. 
As  the  guide  remarked,  "  God  made  it  so  d —  big  that  you 
can't  lie  about  it." 

To  comprehend  it  at  all  requires  time  to  re-educate  the 
senses  and  make  them  accustomed  to  the  new  order  of  things. 
But  even  a  cursory  view  will  always  remain  in  the  memory 
as  the  event  of  a  lifetime  in  the  experience  of  the  average 
mortal. 

Distance  in  the  canon  cannot  be  measured  by  the  usual 
standards.  There  are  sheer  walls  of  rocks  that  are  thousands 
of  feet  high  and  as  many  more  feet  deep,  but  where  the  bot- 
tom seems  to  be  is  only  the  beginning  of  other  chasms  which 
lie  in  the  dark  shadows  and  descend  into  yet  deeper  depths 
below.  The  canon  is  not  a  single  empty  chasm,  which  is  the 
universal  conception  of  a  canon,  but  consists  of  a  complex 
system  of  sub  and  side  canons  that  is  bewildering.  Out  of 
its  depths  rise  an  infinite  number  and  variety  of  castellated 
cliffs  and  sculptured  buttes  that  represent  every  conceivable 
variety  of  architecture.  They  have  the  appearance  of  a  res- 
urrected city  of  great  size  and  beauty  which  might  have  been 
built  by  an  army  of  Titans  then  buried  and  forgotten. 

A  trip  into  the  canon  down  one  of  the  trails  makes  its 
magnitude  even  more  impressive  than  a  rim  view.  The  dis- 
tance across  the  chasm  is  also  much  greater  than  what  it 


142  ARIZONA  SKETCHES 

seems  to  be,  which  is  demonstrated  by  the  blue  haze  that  fills 
the  canon.  The  nearby  buttes  are  perfectly  distinct,  but  as 
the  distance  increases  across  the  great  gorge  the  haze  grad- 
ually thickens  until  the  opposite  wall  is  almost  obscured  by 
the  mist. 

The  myriads  of  horizontal  lines  which  mark  the  different 
strata  of  rocks  have  the  appearance  of  a  maze  of  telegraph 
wires  strung  through  the  canon. 

A  ride  leisurely  on  horseback  along  the  rim  trail  from 
Thurber's  old  camp  to  Bissell's  Point,  seven  miles  up  the 
canon,  and  back  is  easily  made  in  a  day.  It  presents  a  pano- 
rama of  magnificent  views  all  along  the  rim,  but  Bissell's  is 
conceded  to  be  the  best  view  point  on  the  canon.  From  this 
point  about  thirty  miles  of  river  can  be  seen  as  it  winds  in 
and  out  deep  down  among  the  rocks.  The  Colorado  river  is 
a  large  stream,  but  as  seen  here  a  mile  below  and  several 
miles  out,  it  dwindles  into  insignificance  and  appears  no  larger 
than  a  meadow  brook.  The  river  looks  placid  in  the  distance, 
but  is  a  raging,  turbulent  torrent  in  which  an  ordinary  boat 
cannot  live  and  the  roar  of  its  wild  waters  can  be  distinctly 
heard  as  of  the  rushing  of  a  distant  train  of  cars. 

A  second  day  spent  in  riding  down  the  canon  to  Grand 
View  Point  and  back  is  equally  delightful.  Looking  across  a 
bend  in  the  canon  from  Grand  View  Point  to  Bissell's  Point  the 
distance  seems  to  be  scarcely  more  than  a  stone's  throw,  yet  it 
is  fully  half  the  distance  of  the  circuitous  route  by  the  rim 
trail. 

There  are  three  trails  leading  into  the  canon  and  down  to 
the  river,  the  Bright  Angel,  Grand  View  and  Hance  trails, 
which  are  at  intervals  of  eight  and  twelve  miles  apart.  They 
are  equally  interesting  and  comparatively  safe  if  the  trip  is 
made  on  the  back  of  a  trained  pony  or  burro  with  a  competent 
guide. 


CANON  ECHOES  143 

The  Hance  trail  is  a  loop  and  is  twenty  miles  long.  It  is 
seven  miles  down  to  the  river,  six  miles  up  the  stream  and 
seven  miles  back  to  the  rim.  It  was  built  single  handed  by- 
Captain  John  Hance,  who  has  lived  many  years  in  the  canon. 
The  trail  is  free  to  pedestrians,  but  yields  the  captain  a  snug 
income  from  horse  hire  and  his  own  services  as  guide  for 
tourists  who  go  over  the  trail. 

Captain  Hance  is  an  entertaining  raconteur  and  he  spins 
many  interesting  yarns  for  the  amusement,  if  not  the  edifica- 
tion, of  his  guests.  The  serious  manner  in  which  he  relates 
his  stories  makes  it  sometimes  hard  to  tell  whether  he  is  in 
jest  or  earnest.  His  acknowledged  skill  in  mountaineering, 
and  feUcity  in  romancing  has  won  for  him  more  than  a  local 
reputation  and  the  distinguished  title  of  Grand  Canon  Guide 
and  Prevaricator. 

He  relates  how  "  once  upon  a  time  "  he  pursued  a  band  of 
mountain  sheep  on  the  rim  of  the  canon.  Just  as  he  was 
about  to  secure  his  quarry  the  sheep  suddenly  turned  a  short 
corner  and  disappeared  behind  some  rocks.  Before  he  real- 
ized his  danger  he  found  himself  on  the  brink  of  a  yawning 
abyss  and  under  such  a  momentum  that  he  could  not  turn 
aside  or  stop  his  horse.  Together  they  went  over  the  cliff 
in  an  awful  leap.  He  expected  to  meet  instant  death  on  the 
rocks  below  and  braced  himself  for  the  shock.  As  the  fall 
was  greater  than  usual,  being  over  a  mile  deep  in  a  perpendicu- 
lar line,  it  required  several  seconds  for  the  descending  bodies 
to  traverse  the  intervening  space,  which  gave  him  a  few 
moments  to  think  and  plan  some  way  of  escape.  At  the 
critical  moment  a  happy  inspiration  seized  and  saved  him. 
On  the  instant  that  his  horse  struck  the  rock  and  was  dashed 
to  pieces,  the  captain  sprang  nimbly  from  the  saddle  to  his 
feet  unharmed.  To  prove  the  truth  of  his  statement  he 
never  misses  an  opportunity  to  point  out  to  the  tourist  the 


144  ARIZONA  SKETCHES 

spot  where  his  horse  fell,  and  shows  the  white  bones  of  his 
defunct  steed  bleaching  in  the  sun. 

At  Moran's  Point  there  is  a  narrow  cleft  in  the  rocks  which 
he  calls  the  Fat  Woman's  Misery.  It  received  its  name 
several  years  ago  from  a  circumstance  that  happened  while 
he  was  conducting  a  party  of  tourists  along  the  rim  trail.  To 
obtain  a  better  view  the  party  essayed  to  squeeze  through 
the  opening,  in  which  attempt  all  succeeded  except  one  fat 
women  who  stuck  fast.  After  vainly  trying  to  extricate  her 
from  her  uncomfortable  position  he  finally  told  her  that  there 
was  but  one  of  two  things  to  do,  either  remain  where  she  was 
and  starve  to  death  or  take  one  chance  in  a  thousand  of  being 
blown  out  alive  by  dynamite.  After  thinking  a  moment  she 
decided  to  try  the  "  one  chance  in  a  thousand "  experi- 
ment. 

A  charge  of  dynamite  was  procured  and  the  fuse  lighted. 
After  the  explosion  he  returned  to  the  spot  and  found  the 
result  satisfactory.  The  blast  had  released  the  woman,  who 
was  alive  and  sitting  upon  a  rock.  He  approached  her  cheer- 
fully and  said : 

"  Madam,  how  do  you  feel  ?  "  She  looked  up  shocked,  but 
evidently  very  much  relieved,  and  replied  "  Why,  sir,  I  feel 
first  rate,  but  the  jolt  gave  me  a  little  toothache." 

He  tells  another  story  of  how  he  once  took  a  drink  from 
the  Colorado  river.  The  water  is  never  very  clear  in  the 
muddy  stream  but  at  that  particular  time  it  was  unusually 
murky.  He  had  nothing  with  which  to  dip  the  water  and 
lay  down  on  the  bank  to  take  a  drink.  Being  very  thirsty 
he  paid  no  attention  to  the  quality  of  the  water,  but  only 
knew  that  it  tasted  wet.  The  water,  however,  grew  thicker 
as  he  drank  until  it  became  balled  up  in  his  mouth,  and  stuck 
fast  in  his  throat  and  threatened  to  choke  him.  He  tried  to 
bite  it  off  but  failed  because  his  teeth  were  poor.     At  last 


CAPTAIN    JOHN    HANCE    AND    HIS    CABIN. 


ARAVAIPA  CANON. 


CANON  ECHOES  147 

becoming  desperate,  he  pulled  his  hunting  knife  from  his 
belt  and  cut  himself  loose  from  his  drink. 

Different  theories  have  been  advanced  to  account  for  the 
origin  of  the  Grand  Canon,  but  it  is  a  question  whether  it  is 
altogether  due  to  any  one  cause.  Scientists  say  that  it  is  the 
work  of  water  erosion,  but  to  the  layman  it  seems  impossible. 
If  an  ocean  of  water  should  flow  over  rocks  during  eons  of 
ages  it  does  not  seem  possible  that  it  could  cut  such  a 
channel. 

Water  sometimes  does  queer  things,  but  it  has  never  been 
known  to  reverse  nature.  By  a  fundamental  law  of  hydro- 
statics water  always  seeks  its  level  and  flows  in  the  direction 
of  least  resistance.  If  water  ever  made  the  Grand  Canon  it 
had  to  climb  a  hill  and  cut  its  way  through  the  backbone  of 
the  Buckskin  mountains,  which  are  not  a  range  of  peaks  but 
a  broad  plateau  of  solid  rock.  Into  this  rock  the  canon  is 
sunk  more  than  a  mile  deep,  from  six  to  eighteen  miles  wide 
and  over  two  hundred  miles  long. 

In  order  to  make  the  theory  of  water  erosion  tenable  it  is 
assumed  that  the  Colorado  river  started  in  its  incipiency  like 
any  other  river.  After  a  time  the  river  bed  began  to  rise  and 
was  gradually  pushed  up  more  and  more  by  some  unknown 
subterranean  force  as  the  water  cut  deeper  and  deeper  into 
the  rock  until  the  Grand  Canon  was  formed. 

Captain  Hance  has  a  theory  that  the  canon  originated  in 
an  underground  stream  which  tunneled  until  it  cut  its  way 
through  to  the  surface.  As  improbable  as  is  this  theory  it 
is  as  plausible  as  the  erosion  theory,  but  both  theories  appear 
to  be  equally  absurd. 

At  some  remote  period  of  time  the  entire  southwest  was 
rent  and  torn  by  an  awful  cataclysm  which  caused  numerous 
fissures  and  seams  to  appear  all  over  the  country.  The  force 
that  did  the  work  had  its  origin  in  the  earth  and  acted  by 


148  ARIZONA  SKETCHES 

producing  lateral  displacement  rather  than  direct  upheaval. 
Whenever  that  event  occurred  the  fracture  which  marks  the 
course  of  the  Grand  Canon  was  made  and,  breaking  through 
the  inclosing  wall  of  the  Great  Basin,  set  free  the  waters 
of  an  inland  sea.  What  the  seismic  force  began  the  flood 
of  liberated  water  helped  to  finish,  and  there  was  born  the 
greatest  natural  wonder  of  the  known  world. 

There  are  canons  all  over  Arizona  and  the  southwest  that 
resemble  the  Grand  Canon,  except  that  they  were  made  on  a 
smaller  scale.  Many  of  them  are  perfectly  dry  and  appar- 
ently never  contained  any  running  water.  They  are  all  so 
much  alike  that  they  were  evidently  made  at  the  same  time 
and  by  the  same  cause.  Walnut  Canon  and  Canon  Diablo 
are  familiar  examples  of  canon  formation. 

The  rocks  in  the  canons  do  not  stand  on  end,  but  lie  in 
horizontal  strata  and  show  but  little  dip  anywhere.  Indeed, 
the  rocks  lie  so  plumb  in  many  places  that  they  resemble  the 
most  perfect  masonry. 

The  rim  rock  of  the  Mogollon  Mesa  is  of  the  same  charac- 
ter as  the  walls  of  the  Grand  Canon  and  is  an  important  part 
of  the  canon  system.  It  is  almost  a  perpendicular  cliff  from 
one  to  three  thousand  feet  high  which  extends  from  east  to 
west  across  central  Arizona  and  divides  the  great  northern 
plateau  from  the  southern  valleys.  It  is  one  side  of  an  im- 
mense vault  or  canon  wall  whose  mate  has  been  lost  or 
dropped  completely  out  of  sight. 

In  many  of  the  canons  where  water  flows  continuously,  ef- 
fects are  produced  that  are  exactly  the  opposite  of  those 
ascribed  to  water  erosion.  Instead  of  the  running  water  cut- 
ting deeper  into  the  earth  it  has  partly  filled  the  canon  with 
alluvium,  thereby  demonstrating  nature's  universal  leveling 
process.  Even  the  floods  of  water  which  pour  through  them 
during  every  rainy  season  with  an  almost  irresistible  force 


CANON  ECHOES  149 

carry  in  more  soil  than  they  wash  out  and  every  freshet  only 
adds  new  soil  to  the  old  deposits.  If  these  canons  were  all 
originally  made  by  water  erosion  as  is  claimed,  why  does  not 
the  water  continue  to  act  in  the  same  manner  now  but,  in- 
stead, completely  rev^erses  itself  as  above  stated  ?  There 
can  be  but  one  of  two  conclusions,  either  that  nature  has 
changed  or  that  scientists  are  mistaken. 

The  Aravaipa  in  southern  Arizona  is  an  interesting  canon 
and  is  typical  of  its  kind.  Its  upper  half  is  shallow  and 
bounded  by  low  rolling  foothills,  but  in  the  middle  it  suddenly 
deepens  and  narrows  into  a  box  canon,  which  has  high  per- 
pendicular walls  of  solid  rock  like  the  Grand  Canon.  It  is  a 
long,  narrow  valley  sunk  deep  into  the  earth  and  has  great 
fertility  and  much  wild  beauty.  It  measures  from  a  few  feet 
to  a  mile  in  width  and  drains  a  large  scope  of  rough  country. 
The  surface  water  which  filters  through  from  above  reappears 
in  numerous  springs  of  clear  cold  water  in  the  bottom  of  the 
canon.  In  the  moist  earth  and  under  the  shade  of  forest 
trees  grow  a  variety  of  rare  flowers,  ferns  and  mosses. 

Where  the  canon  begins  to  box  a  large  spring  of  pure 
cold  water  issues  from  the  sand  in  the  bottom  of  a  wash 
which  is  the  source  of  the  Aravaipa  creek.  It  flows  through 
many  miles  of  rich  alluvial  land  and  empties  into  the  San 
Predo  river.  The  valley  was  settled  many  years  ago  by  men 
who  were  attracted  to  the  spot  by  its  rare  beauty,  fertility  of 
soil  and  an  abundance  of  wood  and  water. 

The  land  is  moist  and  covered  by  a  heavy  growth  of  for- 
est trees,  which  will  average  over  one  hundred  feet  high. 
The  trees  are  as  large  and  the  foliage  as  dense  as  in  any 
eastern  forest.  Being  sunk  deep  in  the  earth  the  narrow 
valley  at  the  bottom  of  the  canon  can  only  be  seen  from 
above.  When  viewed  from  some  favorable  point  it  has  the 
appearance  of  a  long  green  ribbon  stretched  loosely  over  a 


150  ARIZONA  SKETCHES 

brown  landscape.  The  sight  of  it  is  a  pleasant  surprise  to 
the  weary  wayfarer  who,  after  traveling  over  many  miles  of 
dreary  desert  road,  finds  himself  suddenly  ushered  into  such 
pleasant  scenes. 

The  canons  of  Arizona  are  unrivaled  for  grandeur,  sub- 
limity and  beauty,  and  will  attract  an  ever  increasing  num- 
ber of  admirers. 


WESTERN  SLOPE  OF  THE  METEORITE  MOUNTAIN. 


EASTERN   SLOPE    OF   THE   METEORITE   MOUNTAIN. 


THE  METEORITE  MOUNTAIN  153 


CHAPTER    XI 


THE    METEORITE    MOUNTAIN 


TEN  miles  southeast  of  Canon  Diablo  station  on  the 
Santa  Fe  Pacific  Railroad,  stands  the  Meteorite 
Mountain  of  Arizona,  on  a  wide,  open  plain  of 
the  Colorado  Plateau.  It  is  two  hundred  feet  high  and,  as 
seen  at  a  distance,  has  the  appearance  of  a  low,  fiat  moun- 
tain. Its  top  forms  the  rim  of  an  immense,  round,  bowl- 
shaped  hole  in  the  ground  that  has  almost  perpendicular 
sides,  is  one  mile  wide  and  over  six  hundred  feet  deep.  The 
hole,  originally,  was  evidently  very  much  deeper  than  it  is  at 
the  present  time,  but  it  has  gradually  become  filled  with  de- 
bris to  its  present  depth.  The  bottom  of  the  hole  has  a  floor 
of  about  forty  acres  of  level  ground  which  merges  into  a 
talus. 

This  formation  is  sometimes  called  the  Crater,  because  of 
its  shape,  but  there  is  no  evidence  of  volcanic  action.  Lo- 
cally it  is  known  as  Coon  Butte,  which  is  a  misnomer  ;  but 
Meteorite  Mountain  is  a  name  with  a  meaning. 

It  is  not  known  positively  just  how  or  when  the  mountain 
was  formed,  but  the  weight  of  evidence  seems  to  favor  the 
meteorite  theory,  which  is  that  at  some  remote  period  of  time 
a  monster  meteorite  fell  from  the  sky  and  buried  itself  in  the 
earth. 


154  ARIZONA  SKETCHES 

Mr.  F.  W.  Volz,  who  has  Hved  in  the  country  twenty  years, 
and  is  an  intelligent  observer  of  natural  phenomena,  has  made 
a  careful  study  of  the  mountain,  and  it  is  his  opinion  that 
such  an  event  actually  occurred  and  that  a  falling  star  made 
the  mountain.  When  the  descending  meteorite,  with  its 
great  weight  and  terrific  momentum,  hit  the  earth  something 
had  to  happen.  It  buried  itself  deep  beneath  the  surface, 
and  caused  the  earth  to  heave  up  on  all  sides.  The  effect 
produced  is  aptly  illustrated,  on  a  small  scale,  by  throwing  a 
rock  into  thick  mud. 

The  impact  of  the  meteorite  upon  the  earth  not  only  caused 
an  upheaval  of  the  surface,  but  it  also  crushed  and  displaced 
the  rocks  beneath.  As  the  stellar  body  penetrated  deeper 
into  the  earth  its  force  became  more  concentrated  and  either 
compressed  the  rocks  into  a  denser  mass  or  ground  them  to 
powder. 

The  plain  on  which  the  mountain  stands  is  covered  by  a 
layer  of  red  sandstone  of  variable  thickness,  as  it  is  much 
worn  in  places  by  weather  erosion.  Below  the  top  covering 
of  red  sandstone  lie  three  hundred  feet  of  limestone  and  be- 
neath the  limestone  five  hundred  feet  more  of  white  sandstone. 
This  arrangement  of  the  rocks  is  plainly  seen  in  the  walls  of 
Canon  Diablo. 

The  displaced  strata  of  rocks  in  the  hole  are  tilted  and 
stand  outwards  and  great  boulders  of  red  sandstone  and  lime- 
stone lie  scattered  all  about.  If  the  hole  had  been  made  by 
an  explosion  from  below  large  pieces  of  rock  from  each  one 
of  the  different  rock  strata  would  have  been  thrown  out ;  but, 
while  as  just  stated,  there  are  plenty  of  huge  blocks  of  red 
sandstone  and  limestone,  there  are  no  large  pieces  of  white 
sandstone.  After  the  superficial  layers  of  rock  had  been 
broken  up  and  expelled  en  masse,  the  deeper  rock  of  white 
sandstone,  being  more  confined,  could  not  reach  the  surface 


"the  crater,"  meteorite  mountain. 


^  \,    ^   90     »•!* 


white  sand  on  the  meteorite  mountain. 


THE  METEORITE  MOUNTAIN  157 

in  the  shape  of  boulders,  but  had  first  to  be  broken  up  and 
ground  to  powder  before  it  could  escape.  Then  the  white 
sandstone,  in  the  form  of  fine  sand  was  blown  skywards  by 
the  collision  and  afterwards  settled  down  upon  the  mountain. 
The  mountain  is  covered  with  this  white  sand,  which  could 
only  have  come  out  of  the  big  hole  as  there  is  no  other  white 
sand  or  sandstone  found  anywhere  else  upon  the  entire 
plain. 

In  the  vicinity  of  the  mountain  about  ten  tons  of  meteor- 
ites have  been  found,  varying  in  size  from  the  fraction  of  an 
ounce  to  one  thousand  pounds  or  more.  Most  of  the  meteor- 
ites were  found  by  Mr.  Volz,  who  searched  diligently  every 
foot  of  ground  for  miles  around.  The  smaller  pieces  were 
picked  up  on  or  near  the  rim,  and  they  increased  in  size  in 
proportion  as  they  were  distant  from  the  mountain  until,  on 
a  circle  eight  miles  out,  the  largest  piece  was  found.  Meteor- 
ites were  found  upon  all  sides  of  the  mountain  but  they  seemed 
to  be  thickest  on  the  east  side. 

The  writer  first  visited  the  mountain  in  the  summer  of  1901 
and  it  was  the  greatest  surprise  of  his  six  weeks'  trip  sight- 
seeing in  northern  Arizona  where  are  found  many  natural 
wonders.  He  was  fortunate  enough  to  find  a  three  pound 
meteorite  within  five  minutes  after  arriving  on  the  rim,  which 
Mr.  Volz  said  was  the  first  specimen  found  by  anyone  in  over 
four  years. 

Professor  G.  K.  Gilbert  of  the  United  States  Geological 
Survey  visited  the  mountain  several  years  ago  to  investigate 
the  phenomenon  and,  if  possible,  to  determine  its  origin  by 
scientific  test.  He  gave  the  results  of  his  researches  in  a 
very  able  and  comprehensive  address,*  delivered  before  the 
Geological  Society  of  Washington,  D.  C.     The  existing  con- 

*  Tl^e  Origin  of  Hypotheses.     1895. 


158  ARIZONA  SKETCHES 

ditions  did  not  seem  to  fit  his  theories,  and  he  concluded 
bis  work  without  arriving  at  any  definite  conclusion. 

After  disposing  of  several  hypotheses  as  being  incompe- 
tent to  prove  the  origin  of  the  mountain  he  decided  to  try  the 
magnetic  test.  He  assumed  that  if  such  a  meteorite  was 
buried  there  the  large  mass  of  metallic  iron  must  indicate  its 
presence  by  magnetic  attraction.  By  means  of  the  latest 
scientific  apparatus  he  conducted  an  elaborate  magnetic  ex- 
periment which  gave  only  negative  results. 

He  discussed  at  length  the  various  hypotheses  which  might 
explain  the  origin  of  the  crater  and  concluded  his  notable  ad- 
dress as  follows  : 

"  Still  another  contribution  to  the  subject,  while  it  does 
not  increase  the  number  of  hypotheses,  is  nevertheless  im- 
portant in  that  it  tends  to  diminish  the  weight  of  the  magnetic 
evidence  and  thus  to  reopen  the  question  which  Mr.  Baker 
and  I  supposed  we  had  settled.  Our  fellow-member,  Mr. 
Edwin  E.  Howell,  through  whose  hands  much  of  the  meteoric 
iron  had  passed,  points  out  that  each  of  the  iron  masses,  great 
and  small,  is  in  itself  a  complete  individual.  They  have  none 
of  the  characters  that  would  be  found  if  they  had  been  broken 
one  from  another,  and  yet,  as  they  are  all  of  one  type  and  all 
reached  the  earth  within  a  small  district,  it  must  be  supposed 
that  they  were  originally  connected  in  some  way. 

"  Reasoning  by  analogy  from  the  characters  of  other 
meteoric  bodies,  he  infers  that  the  irons  were  all  included  in 
a  large  mass  of  some  different  material,  either  crystalline 
rock,  such  as  constitutes  the  class  of  meteorites  called  'stony,' 
or  else  a  compound  of  iron  and  sulphur,  similar  to  certain 
nodules  discovered  inside  the  iron  masses  when  sawn  in  two. 
Neither  of  these  materials  is  so  enduring  as  iron,  and  the  fact 
that  they  are  not  now  found  on  the  plain  does  not  prove  their 
original  absence.     Moreover,  the  plain  is  strewn  in  the  vicin- 


CASA   BLANCA,    CAXOX   DE   CHELLY. 


THE  METEORITE  MOUNTAIN  161 

ity  of  the  crater  with  bits  of  limonite,  a  mineral  frequently- 
produced  by  the  action  of  air  and  water  on  iron  sulphides, 
and  this  material  is  much  more  abundant  than  the  iron.  If 
it  be  true  that  the  iron  masses  were  thus  imbedded,  like  plums 
in  an  astral  pudding,  the  hypothetic  buried  star  might  have 
great  size  and  yet  only  small  power  to  attract  the  magnetic 
needle.  Mr.  Howell  also  proposes  a  quahfi cation  of  the  test 
by  volumes,  suggesting  that  some  of  the  rocks  beneath  the 
buried  star  might  have  been  condensed  by  the  shock  so  as  to 
occupy  less  space. 

*'  These  considerations  are  eminently  pertinent  to  the 
study  of  the  crater  and  will  find  appropriate  place  in  any  com- 
prehensive discussion  of  its  origin  ;  but  the  fact  which  is 
peculiarly  worthy  of  note  at  the  present  time  is  their  ability 
to  unsettle  a  conclusion  that  was  beginning  to  feel  itself  se- 
cure. This  illustrates  the  tentative  nature  not  only  of  the 
hypotheses  of  science,  but  of  what  science  calls  its  results. 

"  The  method  of  hypotheses,  and  that  method  is  the  method 
of  science,  founds  its  explanations  of  nature  wholly  on  ob- 
served facts,  and  its  results  are  ever  subject  to  the  limitations 
imposed  by  imperfect  observation.  However  grand,  however 
widely  accepted,  however  useful  its  conclusions,  none  is  so 
sure  that  it  cannot  be  called  into  question  by  a  newly  dis- 
covered fact.  In  the  domain  of  the  world's  knowledge  there 
is  no  infallibility." 

After  Prof.  Gilbert  had  finished  his  experiments,  Mr.  Volz 
tried  some  of  his  own  along  the  same  line.  He  found  upon 
trial  that  the  meteorites  in  his  possession  were  non-magnetic, 
or,  practically  so.  If  these,  being  pieces  of  the  larger  mete- 
orite which  was  buried  in  the  hole,  were  non-magnetic,  all  of 
it  must  be  non-magnetic,  which  would  account  for  the  failure 
of  the  needle  to  act  or  manifest  any  magnetic  attraction  in 
the  greater  test. 


162  ARIZONA  SKETCHES 

Mr.  Volz  also  made  another  interesting  discovery  in  this 
same  connection.  All  over  the  meteorite  zone  are  scattered 
about  small  pieces  of  iron  which  he  calls  "  iron  shale."  It 
is  analogous  to  the  true  meteorite,  but  is  "  burnt  "  or  "  dead." 
He  regards  these  bits  of  iron  as  dead  sparks  from  a  celestial 
forge,  which  fell  from  the  meteorite  as  it  blazed  through  the 
heavens. 

In  experimenting  with  the  stuff  he  found  that  it  was  not 
only  highly  magnetic,  but  also  possessed  polarity  in  a  marked 
degree  ;  and  was  entirely  different  from  the  true  meteorite. 
Here  was  a  curiosity,  indeed  ;  a  small,  insignificant  and  unat- 
tractive stone  possessed  of  strong  magnetic  polarity,  a  property 
of  electricity  that  is  as  mysterious  and  incomprehensible  as 
is  electricity  itself. 

Another  peculiarity  of  Canon  Diablo  meteorite  is  that  it 
contains  diamonds.  When  the  meteorite  was  first  discovered 
by  a  Mexican  sheep  herder  he  supposed  that  he  had  found  a 
large  piece  of  silver,  because  of  its  great  weight  and  luster, 
but  he  was  soon  informed  of  his  mistake.  Not  long  afterwards 
a  white  prospector  who  heard  of  the  discovery  undertook  to 
use  it  to  his  own  advantage,  by  claiming  that  he  had  found  a 
mine  of  pure  iron,  which  he  offered  for  sale.  In  an  attempt 
to  dispose  of  the  property  samples  of  the  ore  were  sent  east 
for  investigation.  Some  of  the  stone  fell  into  the  hands  of 
Dr.  Foote,  who  pronounced  it  to  be  meteorite  and  of  celestial 
origin. 

Sir  William  Crookes  in  discussing  the  theory  of  the  mete- 
oric origin  of  diamonds  *  says,"  the  most  striking  confirmation 
of  the  meteoric  theory  comes  from  Arizona.  Here,  on  a 
broad  open  plain,  over  an  area  about  five  miles  in  diameter, 
were  scattered  from  one  to  two  thousand  masses  of  metallic 
iron,  the  fragments  varying  in  weight  from  half  a  ton  to  a 

*  Diamonds.     Wm.  Crookes,  F.  R.  S.     Smithsonian  Report.     1897. 


VOLZ  S  RANCH,   CANON  DIABLO. 


CLIFF  HOUSES.  CANON  DEL  MUERTO. 


THE  METEORITE  MOUNTAIN  165 

fraction  of  an  ounce.  There  is  little  doubt  that  these  masses 
formed  part  of  a  meteorite  shower,  although  no  record  exists 
as  to  when  the  fall  took  place.  Curiously  enough,  near  the 
center,  where  most  of  the  meteorities  have  been  found,  is 
a  crater  with  raised  edges  three  quarters  of  a  mile  in  diam- 
eter and  about  six  hundred  feet  deep,  bearing  exactly  the 
appearance  which  would  be  produced  had  a  mighty  mass  of 
iron  or  falling  star  struck  the  ground,  scattering  in  all  direc- 
tions, and  buried  itself  deep  under  the  surface.  Altogether 
ten  tons  of  this  iron  have  been  collected,  and  specimens  of 
Canyon  Diablo  Meteorite  are  in  most  collectors'  cabinets. 

"  An  ardent  mineralogist,  the  late  Dr.  Foote,  in  cutting 
a  section  of  this  meteorite,  found  the  tools  were  injured  by 
something  vastly  harder  than  metallic  iron,  and  an  emery 
wheel  used  in  grinding  the  iron  had  been  ruined.  He  exam- 
ined the  specimen  chemically,  and  soon  after  announced  to 
the  scientific  world  that  the  Canyon  Diablo  Meteorite  con- 
tained black  and  transparent  diamonds.  This  startling  dis- 
covery was  afterwards  verified  by  Professors  Friedel  and 
Moissan,  who  found  that  the  Canyon  Diablo  Meteorite  con- 
tained the  three  varieties  of  carbon — diamond  (transparent 
and  black),  graphite  and  amorphous  carbon.  Since  this  reve- 
lation the  search  for  diamonds  in  meteorites  has  occupied  the 
attention  of  chemists  all  over  the  world. 

"  Here,  then,  we  have  absolute  proof  of  the  truth  of  the 
meteoric  theory.  Under  atmospheric  influences  the  iron 
would  rapidly  oxidize  and  rust  away,  coloring  the  adjacent 
soil  with  red  oxide  of  iron.  The  meteoric  diamonds  would 
be  unaffected  and  left  on  the  surface  to  be  found  by  explorers 
when  oxidation  had  removed  the  last  proof  of  their  celestial 
origin.  That  there  are  still  lumps  of  iron  left  in  Arizona  is 
merely  due  to  the  extreme  dryness  of  the  climate  and  the 
comparatively  short  time  that  the  iron  has  been  on  our  planet. 


166  ARIZONA  SKETCHES 

We  are  here  witnesses  to  the  course  of  an  event  which  may 
have  happened  in  geologic  times  anywhere  on  the  earth's  sur- 
face." 

About  a  year  ago  several  mineral  claims  were  located  in 
the  crater  by  a  company  of  scientific  and  moneyed  men.  The 
required  assessment  work  was  done  and  a  patent  for  the  land 
obtained  from  the  government.  The  object  of  the  enterprise 
is  for  a  double  purpose,  if  possible  to  solve  the  mystery  of 
the  mountain,  and  if  successful  in  finding  the  "hypothetic 
buried  star  "  to  excavate  and  appropriate  it  for  its  valuable 
iron. 

A  shaft  has  been  sunk  one  hundred  and  ninety-five  feet 
deep,  where  a  strong  flow  of  water  was  encountered  in  a  bed 
of  white  sand  which  temporarily  stopped  the  work.  A  gaso- 
line engine  and  drill  were  procured  and  put  in  operation  and 
the  drill  was  driven  down  forty  feet  further  when  it  stuck 
fast  in  white  quicksand.  It  is  the  intention  of  the  company 
to  continue  the  work  and  carry  it  on  to  a  successful  finish. 

Nothing  of  value  was  found  in  the  hole  dug,  but  some  of 
the  workmen  in  their  leisure  hours  found  on  the  surface  two 
large  meteorites  weighing  one  hundred  and  one  hundred  and 
fifty  pounds  respectively,  besides  a  number  of  smaller  frag- 
ments. 

The  Meteorite  Mountain  is  in  a  class  by  itself  and  is,  in  a 
way,  as  great  a  curiosity  as  is  the  Grand  Canon.  It  is  little 
known  and  has  not  received  the  attention  that  it  deserves. 
It  is,  indeed,  marvelous  and  only  needs  to  be  seen  to  be 
appreciated. 


THE  CLIFF  DWELLERS  167 


CHAPTER    Xn 


THE    CLIFF    DWELLERS 


IN  the  canons  of  the  Colorado  river  and  its  tributaries 
are  found  the  ruins  of  an  ancient  race  of  cHff  dwellers. 
These  ruins  are  numerous  and  are  scattered  over  a  wide 
scope  of  country,  which  includes  Arizona  and  portions  of 
Utah,  Colorado  and  New  Mexico.  Many  of  them  are  yet  in 
a  good  state  of  preservation,  but  all  show  the  marks  of  age 
and  decay.  They  are  not  less  than  four  hundred  years  old 
and  are,  in  all  probability,  much  older.  Their  preservation 
is  largely  due  to  their  sheltered  position  among  the  rocks  and 
an  exceptionally  dry  climate. 

The  houses  are  invariably  built  upon  high  cliffs  on  shelv- 
ing rocks  in  places  that  are  almost  inaccessible.  In  some 
instances  they  can  only  be  reached  by  steps  cut  into  the  solid 
rock,  which  are  so  old  and  worn  that  they  are  almost  obliter- 
ated. Their  walls  so  nearly  resemble  the  stratified  rocks 
upon  which  they  stand,  that  they  are  not  easily  distinguished 
from  their  surroundings. 

The  cliffs  are  often  sloping,  sometimes  overhanging,  but 
more  frequently  perpendicular.  The  weather  erosion  of 
many  centuries  has  caused  the  softer  strata  of  exposed  rocks 
in  the  cliffs  to  disintegrate  and  fall  away,  which  left  number- 
less caverns  wherein  this  ancient  and  mysterious  people  chose 


168  ARIZONA  SKETCHES 

to  build  their  eyrie  homes  to  Hve  with  the  eagles.  The  houses 
are  built  of  all  shapes  and  sizes  and,  apparently,  were  planned 
to  fit  the  irregular  and  limited  space  of  their  environment. 
Circular  watch  towers  look  down  from  commanding  heights 
which,  from  their  shape  and  position,  were  evidently  intended 
to  serve  the  double  purpose  of  observation  and  defense. 

In  the  search  for  evidence  of  their  antiquity  it  is  believed 
that  data  has  been  found  which  denotes  great  age.  In  the 
construction  of  some  of  their  houses,  notably  those  in  the 
Man  cos  Canon,  is  displayed  a  technical  knowledge  of  archi- 
tecture and  a  mathematical  accuracy  which  savages  do  not 
possess ;  and  the  fine  masonry  of  dressed  stone  and  superior 
cement  seem  to  prove  that  Indians  were  not  the  builders. 
On  the  contrary,  to  quote  a  recent  writer,  "  The  evidence 
goes  to  show  that  the  work  was  done  by  skilled  workmen 
who  were  white  masons  and  who  built  for  white  people  in  a 
prehistoric  age."  In  this  connection  it  is  singular,  if  not 
significant,  that  the  natives  when  first  discovered  believed  in 
a  bearded  white  man  whom  they  deified  as  the  Fair  God  of 
whose  existence  they  had  obtained  knowledge  from  some 
source  and  in  whose  honor  they  kept  their  sacred  altar  fires 
burning  unquenched. 

The  relics  that  have  been  found  in  the  ruins  are  principally 
implements  of  the  stone  age,  but  are  of  sufficient  variety  to 
indicate  a  succession  of  races  that  were  both  primitive  and 
cultured  and  as  widely  separated  in   time  as  in  knowledge. 

The  cliff  dwellings  were  not  only  the  abodes  of  their 
original  builders,  but  were  occupied  and  deserted  successively 
by  the  chipped  stone  implement  maker,  the  polisher  of  hard 
stone,  the  basket  maker  and  the  weaver. 

Among  the  relics  that  have  been  found  in  the  ruins  are 
some  very  fine  specimens  of  pottery  which  are  as  sym- 
metrical and  well   finished  as  if  they  had  been  turned  on 


CLIFF  RUINS,  CAXOX  DEL  MUERTO. 


CANON    DEL    MUERTO. 


THE  CLIFF  DWELLERS  171 

a  potter's  wheel,  and  covered  with  an  opaque  enamel  of 
stanniferous  glaze  composed  of  lead  and  tin  that  originated 
with  the  Phoenicians,  and  is  as  old  as  history.  Can  it  be 
possible  that  the  cliff  dwellers  are  a  lost  fragment  of  Egyptian 
civilization  ? 

The  cliff  ruins  in  Arizona  are  not  only  found  in  the  caftons 
of  the  Colorado  river,  but  also  in  many  other  places.  The 
finest  of  them  are  Montezuma's  Castle  on  Beaver  creek,  and 
the  Casa  Blanca  in  Canon  de  Chelly.  Numerous  other 
ruins  are  found  on  the  Rio  Verde,  Gila  river.  Walnut  Canon 
and  elsewhere. 

The  largest  and  finest  group  of  cliff  dwellings  are  those 
on  the  Mesa  Verde  in  Colorado.  They  are  fully  described 
in  the  great  work*  of  Nordenskiold,  who  spent  much  time 
among  them.  The  different  houses  are  named  after  some 
peculiarity  of  appearance  or  construction,  like  the  Cliff 
Palace,  which  contains  more  than  one  hundred  rooms.  Long 
House,  Balcony  House,  Spruce  Tree  House,  etc. 

He  obtained  a  large  quantity  of  relics,  which  are  also  fully 
described,  consisting  of  stone  implements,  pottery,  cotton 
and -feather  cloth,  osier  and  palmillo  mats,  yucca  sandals, 
weaving  sticks,  bone  awls,  corn  and  beans. 

Many  well-preserved  mummies  were  found  buried  in 
graves  that  were  carefully  closed  and  sealed.  The  bodies 
were  wrapped  in  a  fine  cotton  cloth  of  drawn  work,  which 
was  covered  by  a  coarser  cloth  resembling  burlap,  and  all  in- 
closed in  a  wrapping  of  palmillo  matting  tied  with  a  cord 
made  of  the  fiber  of  cedar  bark.  The  hair  is  fine  and  of  a 
brown  color,  and  not  coarse  and  black  like  the  hair  of  the 
wild  Indians.  Mummies  have  been  exhumed  that  have  red 
or  light  colored  hair  such  as  usually  goes  with  a  fair  skin. 

*  The  Cliff  Dwellers  of  the  Mesa  Verde,  by  F.  Nordenskiold,  Stockholm. 
1893- 


172  ARIZONA  SKETCHES 

This  fact  has  led  some  to  believe  that  the  cliff  dwellers  be- 
longed to  the  white  race,  but  not  necessarily  so,  as  this 
quality  of  hair  also  belongs  to  albinos,  who  doubtless  lived 
among  the  cliff  dwellers  as  they  do  among  the  Moquis  and 
Zunis  at  the  present  day,  and  explains  the  peculiarity  of  hair 
just  mentioned. 

These  remains  may  be  very  modern,  as  some  choose  to  be- 
lieve, but,  in  all  probability,  they  are  more  ancient  than  mod- 
ern. Mummies  incased  in  wood  and  cloth  have  been  taken 
from  the  tombs  of  Egypt  in  an  almost  perfect  state  of  pres- 
ervation which  cannot  be  less  than  two  thousand  years  old, 
and  are,  perhaps,  more  than  double  that  age.  As  there  is  no 
positive  knowledge  as  to  when  the  cliff  dwellers  flourished, 
one  man's  guess  on  the  subject  is  as  good  as  another's. 

An  important  discovery  was  recently  made  near  Mancos, 
Colorado,  where  a  party  of  explorers  found  in  some  old  cliff 
dwellings  graves  beneath  graves  that  were  entirely  different 
from  anything  yet  discovered.  They  were  egg-shaped,  built 
of  stone  and  plastered  smoothly  with  clay.  They  contained 
mummies,  cloth,  sandals,  beads  and  various  other  trinkets. 
There  was  no  pottery,  but  many  well-made  baskets,  and  their 
owners  have  been  called  the  basket  makers.  There  was  also 
a  difference  in  the  skulls  found.  The  cliff  dwellers'  skull  is 
short  and  flattened  behind,  while  the  skulls  that  were  found 
in  these  old  graves  were  long,  narrow  and  round  on  the 
back.* 

Rev.  H.  M.  Baum,  who  has  traveled  all  over  the  south- 
west and  visited  every  large  ruin  in  the  country,  considers 
that  Canon  de  Chelly  and  its  branch,  del  Muerto,  is  the  most 
interesting  prehistoric  locality  in  the  United  States.  The 
Navajos,  who  now  live  in  the  canon,  have  a  tradition  that  the 

*  An  Elder  Brother  of  the  Cliff  Dwellers,  by  T.  M.  Prudden,  M.  D.  Har- 
per's Magazine,  June,  1897. 


EXPLORING  THE  CANON. 


pp 

4 

iiJHII^B^Silnr#9HH 

L^'^t'  iiHr'As, 

^^^  -jfe. .  ^i'^B 

^HK'**.        ^ 

ON    THE    RIM    TRAIL. 


THE  CLIFF  DWELLERS  175 

people  who  occupied  the  old  cliff  houses  were  all  destroyed 
in  one  day  by  a  wind  of  fire.*  The  occurrence,  evidently, 
was  similar  to  what  happened  recently  on  the  island  of  Mar- 
tinique, when  all  the  inhabitants  of  the  village  of  St.  Pierre 
perished  in  an  hour  by  the  eruption  of  Mont  Pelee. 

Contemporaneous  with  the  cliff  dwellers  there  seems  to 
have  lived  a  race  of  people  in  the  adjoining  valleys  who  built 
cities  and  tilled  the  soil.  Judged  by  their  works  they  must 
have  been  an  industrious,  intelligent  and  numerous  people. 
All  over  the  ground  are  strewn  broken  pieces  of  pottery  that 
are  painted  in  bright  colors  and  artistic  designs  which,  after 
ages  of  exposure  to  the  weather,  look  as  fresh  as  if  newly 
made.  The  relics  that  have  been  taken  from  the  ruins  are 
similar  to  those  found  in  the  cliff  houses,  and  consist  mostly 
of  stone  implements  and  pottery. 

In  the  Gila  valley,  near  the  town  of  Florence,  stands  the 
now  famous  Casa  Grande  ruin,  which  is  the  best  preserved 
of  all  these  ancient  cities.  It  was  a  ruin  when  the  Spaniards 
first  discovered  it,  and  is  a  type  of  the  ancient  communal 
house.  Its  thick  walls  are  composed  of  a  concrete  adobe 
that  is  as  hard  as  rock,  and  its  base  lines  conform  to  the 
cardinal  points  of  the  compass.  It  is  an  interesting  relic  of 
a  past  age  and  an  extinct  race  and,  if  it  cannot  yield  up  its 
secrets  to  science,  it  at  least  appeals  to  the  spirit  of  ro- 
mance and  mystery. 

Irrigating  ditches  which  were  fed  from  reservoirs  supplied 
their  fields  and  houses  with  water.  Portions  of  these  old 
canals  are  yet  in  existence  and  furnish  proof  of  the  diligence 
and  skill  of  their  builders.  The  ditches  were  located  on  levels 
that  could  not  be  improved  upon  for  utilizing  the  land  and 
water  to  the  best  advantage.     Modern  engineers  have  not 

*  Pueblo  and  Cliff  Dwellers  of  the  Southwest.     Records  of  the  Past,   De- 
cember, 1902. 


176  ARIZONA  SKETCHES 

been  able  to  better  them  and  in  many  places  the  old  levels 
are  used  in  new  ditches  at  the  present  time. 

Whatever  may  have  been  the  fate  of  this  ancient  people 
their  destruction  must  be  sought  in  natural  causes  rather  than 
by  human  warfare.  An  adverse  fate  probably  cut  off  their 
water  supply  and  laid  waste  their  productive  fields.  With 
their  crops  a  failure  and  all  supplies  gone  what  else  could  the 
people  do  but  either  starve  or  move,  but  as  to  the  nature  of 
the  exodus  history  is  silent. 

Just  how  ancient  these  works  are  might  be  difficult  to  prove, 
but  they  are  certainly  not  modern.  The  evidence  denotes 
that  they  have  existed  a  long  time.  Where  the  water  in 
a  canal  flowed  over  solid  rock  the  rock  has  been  much 
worn.  Portions  of  the  old  ditches  are  filled  with  lava  and 
houses  lie  buried  in  the  vitreous  flood.  It  is  certain  that  the 
country  was  inhabited  prior  to  the  last  lava  flow  whether  that 
event  occurred  hundreds  or  thousands  of  years  ago. 

It  is  claimed  that  the  Pueblo  Indians  and  cliff  dwellers  are 
identical  and  that  the  latter  were  driven  from  their  peaceful 
valley  homes  by  a  hostile  foe  to  find  temporary  shelter  among 
the  rocks,  but  such  a  conclusion  seems  to  be  erroneous  in  view 
of  certain  facts. 

The  cliff  dwellings  were  not  temporary  camps,  as  such  a 
migration  would  imply,  but  places  of  permanent  abode.  The 
houses  are  too  numerous  and  well  constructed  to  be  accounted 
for  on  any  other  hypothesis,  A  people  fleeing  periodically 
to  the  cliffs  to  escape  from  an  enemy  could  not  have  built 
such  houses.  Indeed,  they  are  simply  marvelous  when  con- 
sidered as  to  location  and  construction.  The  time  that  must 
necessarily  have  been  consumed  in  doing  the  work  and  the 
amount  of  danger  and  labor  involved — labor  in  preparing  and 
getting  the  material  into  place  and  danger  in  scaling  the  dizzy 
heights  over  an  almost  impassible  trail,  it  seems  the  boldest 


OUR    CAMP    IN    CANON    DE    CHELLY. 


CHIN    LEE,    CANON    DE    CHELLY. 


THE  CLIFF  DWELLERS  179 

assumption  to  assert  that  the  work  was  done  by  a  fleeing  and 
demoralized  mob. 

Again,  it  would  be  a  physical  impossibility  for  a  people  who 
were  only  accustomed  to  agricultural  pursuits  to  suddenly 
and  completely  change  their  habits  of  life  such  as  living  among 
the  rocks  would  necessitate.  Only  by  native  instinct  and 
daily  practice  from  childhood  would  it  be  possible  for  any 
people  to  follow  the  narrow  and  difficult  paths  which  were 
habitually  traveled  by  the  cliff  dwellers.  It  requires  a  clear 
head  and  steady  nerves  to  perform  the  daring  feat  in  safety — 
to  the  truth  of  which  statement  modern  explorers  can  tes- 
tify who  have  made  the  attempt  in  recent  years  at  the  peril 
of  life  and  limb  while  engaged  in  searching  for  archaeological 
treasures. 

Judged  by  the  everyday  life  that  is  familiar  to  us  it  seems 
incredible  that  houses  should  ever  have  been  built  or  homes 
established  in  such  hazardous  places,  or  that  any  people  should 
have  ever  lived  there.  But  that  they  did  is  an  established 
fact  as  there  stand  the  houses  which  were  built  and  occupied 
by  human  beings  in  the  midst  of  surroundings  that  might 
appall  the  stoutest  heart.  Children  played  and  men  and 
women  wrought  on  the  brink  of  frightful  precipices  in  a  space 
so  limited  and  dangerous  that  a  single  misstep  made  it  fatal. 

It  is  almost  impossible  to  conceive  of  any  condition  in  life, 
or  combination  of  circumstances  in  the  affairs  of  men,  that 
should  drive  any  people  to  the  rash  act  of  living  in  the  houses 
of  the  cliff  dwellers.  Men  will  sometimes  do  from  choice 
what  they  cannot  be  made  to  do  by  compulsion.  It  is  easier 
to  believe  that  the  cliff  dwellers,  being  free  people,  chose  of 
their  own  accord  the  site  of  their  habitation  rather  than  that 
from  any  cause  they  were  compelled  to  make  the  choice. 
Their  preference  was  to  live  upon  the  cliffs,  as  they  were 
fitted  by  nature  for  such  an  environment. 


180  ARIZONA  SKETCHES 

For  no  other  reason,  apparently,  do  the  Moquis  live  upon 
their  rocky  and  barren  mesas  away  from  everything  which 
the  civilized  white  man  deems  desirable,  yet,  in  seeming  con- 
tentment. The  Supais,  likewise,  choose  to  live  alone  at  the 
bottom  of  Cataract  Canon  where  they  are  completely  shut 
in  by  high  cliffs.  Their  only  road  out  is  by.  a  narrow  and 
dangerous  trail  up  the  side  of  the  canon,  which  is  little  traveled 
as  they  seldom  leave  home  and  are  rarely  visited. 

To  affirm  that  the  cliff  dwellers  were  driven  from  their 
strongholds  and  dispersed  by  force  is  pure  fiction,  nor  is 
there  any  evidence  to  support  such  a  theory.  That  they  had 
enemies  no  one  doubts,  but,  being  in  possession  of  an  impreg- 
nable position  where  one  man  could  successfully  withstand  a 
thousand,  to  surrender  would  have  been  base  cowardice,  and 
weakness  was  not  a  characteristic  of  the  cliff  dwellers. 

The  question  of  their  subsistence  is  likewise  a  puzzle.  They 
evidently  cultivated  the  soil  where  it  was  practicable  to  do 
so  as  fragments  of  farm  products  have  been  found  in  their 
dwellings,  but  in  the  vicinity  of  some  of  the  houses  there  is 
no  tillable  land  and  the  inhabitants  must  have  depended  upon 
other  means  for  support.  The  wild  game  which  was,  doubt- 
less, abundant  furnished  them  with  meat  and  edible  seeds, 
fruits  and  roots  from  native  plants  like  the  pinon  pine  and 
mesquite  which  together  with  the  saguaro  and  mescal,  sup- 
plied them  with  a  variety  of  food  sufficient  for  their  subsist- 
ence as  they  do,  in  a  measure,  the  wild  Indian  tribes  of  that 
region  at  the  present  day. 


THE  MOQUI  INDIANS  181 


nr 


CHAPTER  XIII 

THE  MOQUI  INDIANS 

HE  Indians  of  Arizona  are,  perhaps,  the  most  in- 
■         teresting  of  any  of  the  American  aborigines.     They 

-■-  are  as  unique  and  picturesque  as  is  the  land  which 
they  inhabit ;  and  the  dead  are  no  less  so  than  the  living. 

The  Pueblo  Indians,  with  which  the  Moquis  are  classed, 
number  altogether  about  ten  thousand  and  are  scattered  in 
twenty-six  villages  over  Arizona  and  New  Mexico.  They  re- 
semble each  other  in  many  respects,  but  do  not  all  speak  the 
same  language.  They  represent  several  wholly  disconnected 
stems  and  are  classified  linguistically  by  Brinton  as  belonging 
to  the  Uto-Aztecan,  Kera,  Tehua  and  Zuni  stocks.  He  be- 
lieves that  the  Pueblo  civilization  is  not  due  to  any  one  un- 
usually gifted  lineage,  but  is  altogether  a  local  product, 
developed  in  independent  tribes  by  their  peculiar  environment, 
which  is  favorable  to  agriculture  and  sedentary  pursuits.* 

The  houses  are  constructed  of  stone  and  adobe,  are  several 
stories  high  and  contain  many  apartments.  None  of  the  ex- 
isting pueblos  are  as  large  as  some  that  are  in  ruins  which, 
judging  by  the  quantity  of  debris,  must  have  been  huge  af- 
fairs. Since  the  advent  of  the  Spaniard  the  style  of  building 
has  changed  somewhat  to  conform  to  modern  ideas,  so  that 

*The  American  Race,  by  D.  G.  Brinton,  1891. 


182  ARIZONA  SKETCHES 

now  some  families  live  in  separate  one-story  houses  having 
doors  and  windows,  instead,  as  formerly,  only  in  large  com- 
munal houses  that  were  built  and  conducted  on  the  communal 
plan. 

Their  manners  and  customs  are  peculiar  to  themselves  and 
make  an  interesting  study.  Their  civilization  is  entirely 
original,  though  modified  to  some  extent  by  centuries  of  con- 
tact with  the  whites.  They  understand  the  Spanish  language, 
but  have  not  forgotten  their  mother  tongue.  They  hold 
tenaciously  to  their  old  customs  and  have  not  changed  ma- 
terially during  the  past  four  hundred  years. 

During  that  time  the  Catholic  missionaries  endeavored  to 
convert  them  to  Christianity,  but  with  only  partial  success. 
While  they  appeared  to  acquiesce,  by  giving  formal  obedience 
to  the  requirements  of  the  new  religion,  they  yet  held  sacred 
their  old  beliefs  and  in  the  privacy  of  the  estufa  practiced  in 
secret  the  rites  and  ceremonies  of  their  ancient  faith. 

The  Spaniards  undertook  to  conquer  a  free  and  independent 
people  by  teaching  them  dependence  and  submission,  but 
signally  failed.  After  a  struggle  of  two  hundred  and  eighty 
years  Spanish  civilization  withdrew  and  left  the  Pueblo  civil- 
ization victorious. 

Under  successive  Spanish,  Mexican  and  American  rule  the 
Pueblo  has  preserved  itself  intact  which  fact  stamps  the  Pueblo 
people  as  being  eminently  valiant,  self-reliant  and  persevering. 
They  are  peaceable,  industrious  and  hospitable  and  are  said 
to  be  the  best  governed  people  in  the  world.  As  nearly  as 
can  be  ascertained  they  are  free  from  every  gross  vice  and 
crime  and  Mr.  C.  F.  Lummis,  who  knows  them  well,  believes 
them  to  be  a  crimeless  people. 

The  Moquis  of  Arizona  are  the  most  primitive  of  the  Pueblo 
Indians  and  are  worthy  representatives  of  their  race.  They 
are  of  the  Aztecan  branch  of  the  Shoshonean  family  and 


MOQUI    GIRL,     ORllBI. 


WATER  CARRIER,  WAL'  -PI. 


THE  MOQUI  INDIANS  185 

probably  the  lineal  descendants  of  the  cliff  dwellers.  Their 
home  is  on  the  Painted  Desert  in  northeastern  Arizona  where 
they  have  lived  for  many  centuries.  It  is  a  barren  and  des- 
olate spot  and  has  been  likened  to  Hades  with  its  fires  extin- 
guished. Nevertheless  it  is  an  exceedingly  interesting  region 
and  furnishes  many  attractions.  The  landscape  is  highly 
picturesque  and  the  phantasmagoric  effects  of  the  rarefied 
atmosphere  are  bewitching. 

In  the  early  Spanish  days  Moqui  land  was  designated  as 
the  Province  of  Tusayan  and  was  shrouded  in  mystery.  The 
seven  Moqui  towns  were  at  one  time  regarded  as  the  seven 
Cities  of  Cibola,  but  later  it  was  decided  that  Zufii  and  not 
Moqui  was  the  true  Cibola. 

When  Coronado,  at  the  head  of  his  intrepid  army,  marched 
through  the  land  in  the  year  1 5  40,  he  procured  native  guides 
to  aid  him  in  exploring  the  country,  hoping  to  find  fabulous 
wealth  which  failed  to  materialize.  He  heard  of  a  race  of 
giants  whom  he  wished  to  meet,  but  instead  of  finding  them 
discovered  a  river  with  banks  so  high  that  they  "  seemed  to 
be  raised  three  or  four  leagues  into  the  air."  What  he  saw 
was  the  Colorado  River  with  its  gigantic  canon  walls  and 
wealth  of  architectural  grandeur  and  beauty.  The  bewilder- 
ing sight  naturally  astonished  him  as  it  does  every  beholder. 
Think  of  a  fissure  in  the  earth  over  a  mile  deep  !  But  the 
Grand  Canon  of  Arizona  is  more  than  a  simple  fissure  in  the 
earth.  It  is  composed  of  many  canons  which  form  a  seem- 
ingly endless  labyrinth  of  winding  aisles  and  majestic  avenues 
— fit  promenades  for  the  Gods. 

The  land  of  the  Moquinos  is  full  of  surprises  and,  although 
they  are  not  all  as  startling  as  the  Grand  Canon,  they  are 
sufficiently  striking  to  make  Arizona  a  wonderland  that  is 
second  to  none  on  the  continent. 

The  Moquis  live  in  seven  towns  or  pueblos  which  are  built 


186  ARIZONA  SKETCHES 

upon  three  rocky  mesas  that  are  many  miles  apart.  The 
mesas  are  about  seven  thousand  feet  above  sea  level  and  from 
six  to  eight  hundred  feet  higher  than  the  surrounding  plain. 
Upon  the  first  or  eastern  mesa  are  located  the  three  towns  of 
Te-wa,  Si-chom-ovi  and  War-pi.  Tewa  is  the  newest  of 
the  three  towns  and  was  built  by  the  Tehuan  allies  who  came 
as  refugees  from  the  Rio  Grande  after  the  great  rebellion  of 
1680.  They  were  granted  permission  to  build  on  the  spot 
by  agreeing  to  defend  the  Gap,  where  the  trail  leaves  the 
mesa,  against  all  intruders. 

Upon  the  second  or  middle  mesa  are  the  towns  of  Mi- 
shong'-novi,  Shi-pauli-ovi  and  Shong-6-pavi ;  and  on  the  third 
mesa  is  O-rai-bi,  which  is  the  largest  of  the  Moqui  villages 
and  equal  to  the  other  six  in  size  and  population.  The  entire 
population  of  the  seven  Moqui  towns  numbers  about  two  thou- 
sand souls. 

In  1583  Espejo  estimated  that  the  Moquis  numbered  fifty 
thousand,  which,  doubtless,  was  an  over  estimate,  as  he  has 
been  accused  of  exaggeration.  However,  since  their  discov- 
ery their  numbers  have  greatly  diminished  and  steadily  con- 
tinue to  decrease,  as  if  it  were  also  to  be  their  fate  to  become 
extinct  like  the  ancient  cliff  dwellers. 

The  Moqui  Pueblos  are  well  protected  by  natural  barriers 
upon  all  sides  except  towards  the  south.  Perched  upon  their 
high  mesas  the  people  have  been  safe  from  every  attack  of 
an  enemy,  but  their  fields  and  flocks  in  the  valley  below 
were  defenseless.  The  top  of  the  several  mesas  can  only  be 
reached  by  ascending  steep  and  difficult  trails  which  are  hard 
to  climb  but  easy  to  defend.  The  paths  on  the  mesas  have 
been  cut  deep  into  the  hard  rock,  which  were  worn  by  the 
soft  tread  of  moccasined  feet  during  centuries  of  travel,  num- 
bering, perhaps,  several  times  the  four  hundred  years  that 
are  known  to  history. 


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THE  MOQUI  INDIANS  189 

The  houses  are  built  of  stone  and  mortar,  and  rise  in  ter- 
races from  one  to  five  stories  high,  back  from  a  street  or  court 
to  a  sheer  wall.  Some  of  the  remodeled  and  newly  built 
houses  have  modern  doors  and  windows.  The  upper  stories 
are  reached  from  the  outside  by  ladders  and  stone  stairways 
built  into  the  walls.  The  rooms  are  smoothly  plastered  and 
whitewashed  and  the  houses  are  kept  tidy  and  clean,  but  the 
streets  are  dirty  and  unsanitary. 

In  these  sky  cities  the  Moquis  live  a  retired  life  that  is 
well  suited  to  their  quiet  dispositions,  love  of  home  life  and 
tireless  industry.  The  men  are  kind,  the  women  virtuous 
and  the  children  obedient.  Indeed,  the  children  are  un- 
usually well  behaved.  They  seldom  quarrel  or  cry,  and  a 
spoiled  child  cannot  be  found  among  them.  The  Moquis 
love  peace,  and  never  fight  among  themselves.  If  a  dis- 
pute occurs  it  is  submitted  to  a  peace  council  of  old  men, 
whose  decision  is  final  and  obeyed  without  a  murmur. 

They  are  shy  and  suspicious  of  strangers,  but  if  addressed 
by  the  magic  word  lolomiy  their  reserve  is  instantly  gone.  It 
is  the  open  sesame  to  their  hearts  and  homes,  and  after  that 
the  house  contains  nothing  too  good  to  bestow  upon  the  wel- 
come guest.  They  are  true  children  of  nature,  and  have  not 
yet  become  corrupted  by  the  vices  of  white  civilization.  The 
worst  thing  they  do  is  that  the  men  smoke  tobacco. 

Their  industries  are  few,  but  afford  sufficient  income  to 
provide  for  their  modest  needs.  They  are  primarily  tillers 
of  the  soil,  and  as  agriculturists  succeed  under  circumstances 
that  would  wholly  baffle  and  discourage  an  eastern  farmer. 
Several  years  ago  a  man  was  sent  out  from  Washington  to 
teach  the  Moquis  agriculture,  but  before  a  year  had  passed 
the  teacher  had  to  buy  corn  from  the  Indians. 

They  make  baskets  and  pottery,  weave  cloth  and  dress 
skins  for  their  own  use  and  to  barter  in  trade  with  their 


190  ARIZONA  SKETCHES 

neighbors.  They  like  silver  and  have  skilled  workmen  who 
make  the  white  metal  into  beads  and  buttons  and  various 
trinkets  for  personal  adornment.  They  care  nothing  for 
gold,  and  silver  is  their  only  money.  Chalchihuitl  is  their 
favorite  gem  and  to  own  a  turquoise  stone  is  regarded  as  an 
omen  of  good  fortune  to  the  happy  possessor. 

Just  how  the  Spaniards  got  the  notion  that  the  Moquis 
loved  gold  and  possessed  vast  stores  of  that  precious  metal 
is  not  apparent  unless  it  be,  as  Bandelier  suggests,  that  it 
originated  in  the  myth  of  the  El  Dorado,  or  Gilded  Man.* 
The  story  started  at  Lake  Guatanita  in  Bogota,  and  trav- 
eled north  to  Quivera,  but  the  wealth  that  the  Spaniards 
sought  they  never  found.  Their  journey  led  them  over 
deserts  that  gave  them  but  little  food  and  only  a  meager 
supply  of  water,  and  ended  in  disaster. 

The  mesas  are  all  rock  and  utterly  barren,  and  their  sup- 
plies are  all  brought  from  a  distance  over  difficult  trails. 
The  water  is  carried  in  ollas  by  the  women  from  springs  at 
the  foot  of  the  mesa ;  wood  is  packed  on  burros  from  distant 
forests  ;  and  corn,  melons  and  peaches  are  brought  home  by 
the  men  when  they  return  from  their  work  in  the  fields.  A 
less  active  and  industrious  people,  under  similar  circum- 
stances, would  soon  starve  to  death,  but  the  Moquis  are  self- 
supporting  and  have  never  asked  nor  received  any  help  from 
Uncle  Sam. 

In  the  early  morning  the  public  crier  proclaims  in  sten- 
torian tones  from  the  housetop  the  program  for  the  day, 
which  sends  everyone  to  his  daily  task.  They  are  inured  to 
labor  and  do  not  count  work  as  a  hardship.  It  is  only  by  in- 
cessant toil  that  they  succeed  at  all  in  earning  a  living  with 
the  scanty  resources  at  their  command,  and  the  only  surprise 
is  that  they  succeed   so  well.     There  is  scarcely  an   hour 

*  The  Gilded  Man,  by  A.  F.  Bandelier,  1893. 


MESA  TRAIL  WORN  BY  MOCCASIXED  FEET. 


MOQUI    CORNFIELD,    WAL -PI   IN    THE   DISTANCE. 


THE  MOQUI  INDIANS  193 

during  the  day  or  night  that  men  and  women  are  not  either 
coming  or  going  on  some  errand  to  provision  the  home. 

The  men  travel  many  miles  every  day  going  to  and  from 
their  work  in  the  fields.  If  a  man  owns  a  burro  he  some- 
times rides,  but  usually  prefers  to  walk.  What  the  burro 
does  not  pack,  the  man  carries  on  his  back.  He  often  sings 
at  his  work,  just  as  the  white  man  does  in  any  farming  com- 
munity, and  his  song  sounds  good. 

The  burro  is  the  common  carrier  and,  because  of  his  ster- 
ling qualities,  is  a  prime  favorite  in  all  of  the  pueblos.  If  he 
has  any  faults  they  are  all  condoned  except  one,  that  of 
theft.  If  he  is  caught  eating  in  a  corn  field  he  is  punished 
as  a  thief  by  having  one  of  his  ears  cut  off ;  and  if  the  offense 
is  repeated  he  loses  his  other  ear  in  the  same  manner. 

The  area  of  tillable  land  is  limited  and  is  found  only  in 
small  patches,  which  cause  the  farms  to  be  widely  scattered. 
The  soil  is  mostly  sand  which  the  wind  drifts  into  dunes 
that  sometimes  cover  and  destroy  the  growing  crops.  The 
peach  trees  are  often  buried  in  sand  or  only  their  top  bran- 
ches remain  visible.  There  are  no  running  streams  of  water 
and  rains  are  infrequent. 

Corn  is  the  principal  crop  and  support  of  the  Moquis.  If 
there  is  a  good  crop  the  surplus  is  stored  away  and  kept  to 
be  used  in  the  future  should  a  crop  fail.  The  corn  is  planted 
in  irregular  hills  and  cultivated  with  a  hoe.  It  is  dropped 
into  deep  holes  made  with  a  stick  and  covered  up.  There 
is  always  enough  moisture  in  the  sand  to  sprout  the  seed 
which,  aided  by  an  occasional  shower,  causes  it  to  grow  and 
mature  a  crop.  The  corn  is  of  a  hardy,  native  variety  that 
needs  but  little  water  to  make  it  grow.  The  grain  is  small 
and  hard  like  popcorn  and  ripens  in  several  colors. 

It  is  carried  home  from  the  field  by  the  men,  and  ground 
into  meal  by  the  women.     The  sound  of  the  grinding  is  heard 


194  ARIZONA  SKETCHES 

in  the  street  and  is  usually  accompanied  by  a  song  that  sounds 
weird  but  musical.  The  meal  is  ground  into  different  grades 
of  fineness  and  when  used  for  bread  is  mixed  with  water  to 
form  a  thin  batter  which  is  spread  by  the  hand  upon  a  hot, 
flat  stone.  It  is  quickly  baked  and  makes  a  thin  wafer  that 
is  no  thicker  than  paper.  When  done  it  is  removed  from  the 
stone  by  the  naked  hand  and  is  rolled  or  folded  into  loaves 
which  makes  their  prized  pici  bread.  It  is  said  to  be  only 
one  of  fifty  different  methods  which  the  Moquis  have  of  pre- 
paring corn  for  the  table,  or  about  twice  the  number  of  styles 
known  to  any  modern  chef. 

The  Moqui  woman  is  favored  above  many  of  her  sex  who 
live  in  foreign  lands.  As  a  child  she  receives  much  attention 
and  toys  galore,  as  the  parents  are  very  fond  of  their  children 
and  devote  much  time  to  their  amusement.  They  make  dolls 
of  their  Katcinas  which  are  given  to  the  children  to  play 
with.  A  Katcina  is  the  emblem  of  a  deity  that  is  represented 
either  in  the  form  of  a  doll  carved  out  of  wood,  woven  into 
a  plaque  or  basket,  or  painted  on  tiles  and  pottery.  There 
are  between  three  and  four  hundred  Katcina  dolls  each  one 
representing  a  different  divinity.  When  a  doll  is  given  to  a 
child  it  is  taught  what  it  means,  thus  combining  instruction 
with  amusement.  The  method  is  a  perfect  system  of  kinder- 
garten teaching,  which  the  Moquis  invented  and  used  centuries 
before  the  idea  occurred  to  Froebel. 

When  the  girl  is  ten  years  old  her  education  properly  be- 
gins and  she  is  systematically  inducted  into  the  mysteries  of 
housekeeping.  At  fifteen  she  has  completed  her  curriculum 
and  can  cook,  bake,  sew,  dye,  spin  and  weave  and  is,  indeed, 
graduated  in  all  the  accomplishments  of  the  finished  Moqui 
maiden.  She  now  does  up  her  hair  in  two  large  coils  or 
whorls,  one  on  each  side  of  the  head,  which  is  meant  to  re- 
semble a  full-blown  squash  blossom  and  signifies  that  the 


NOTICE  ON  SNAKE  KIVA,  REQUESTING  VISITORS  TO  BEHAVE. 


SNAKE  PRIESTS,  ORAIBI. 


THE  MOQUI  INDIANS  197 

wearer  is  of  marriageable  age  and  in  the  matrimonial  market. 
It  gives  her  a  striking  yet  not  unbecoming  appearance,  and, 
if  her  style  of  coiffure  were  adopted  by  modern  fashion  it 
would  be  something  unusually  attractive.  As  represented 
by  Donaldson  in  the  eleventh  census  report  the  handsome 
face  of  Pootitcie,  a  maiden  of  the  pueblo  of  Sichomovi,  makes 
a  pretty  picture  that  even  her  white  sisters  must  admire. 
After  marriage  the  hair  is  let  down  and  done  up  in  two  hard 
twists  that  fall  over  the  shoulders.  This  form  represents  a 
ripe,  dried  squash  blossom  and  means  fruitfulness. 

Her  dress  is  not  Spanish  nor  yet  altogether  Indian,  but  is 
simple,  comfortable  and  becoming,  which  is  more  than  can  be 
said  of  some  civilized  costumes.  She  chooses  her  own  hus- 
band, inherits  her  mother's  name  and  property  and  owns  the 
house  in  which  she  lives.  Instead  of  the  man  owning  and 
bossing  everything,  as  he  so  dearly  loves  to  do  in  our  own 
civilization,  the  property  and  labor  of  the  Moqui  husband  and 
wife  are  equally  divided,  the  former  owning  and  tending  the 
fields  and  flocks  and  the  latter  possessing  and  governing  the 
house. 

The  Moquis  are  famous  for  their  games,  dances  and  festi- 
vals, which  have  been  fully  described  by  Dr.  J.  Walter  Fevvkes 
in  various  reports  to  the  Smithsonian  Institution.  They  have 
many  secret  orders,  worship  the  supernatural,  and  believe  in 
witchcraft.  Their  great  fete  day  is  the  Snake  Dance,  which 
is  held  in  alternate  years  at  Walpi  and  Oraibi,  at  the  former 
place  in  the  odd  year  and  at  the  latter  place  in  the  even  year, 
some  time  during  the  month  of  August.  It  is  purely  a  reli- 
gious ceremony,  an  elaborate  supplication  for  rain,  and  is  de- 
signed to  propitiate  the  water  god  or  snake  deity. 

Preliminary  ceremonies  are  conducted  in  the  secret  Kiva 
several  days  preceding  the  public  dance.  The  Kiva  is  an 
underground  chamber  that  is  cut  out  of  the  solid  rock,  and 


198  ARIZONA  SKETCHES 

is  entered  by  a  ladder.  It  has  but  a  single  opening  on  top 
on  a  level  with  the  street,  which  serves  as  door,  window  and 
chimney.  The  room  is  only  used  by  the  men,  and  is,  in  fact, 
a  lodge  room,  where  the  members  of  the  several  secret  or- 
ders meet  and  engage  in  their  solemn  ceremonials.  It  is  a 
sacred  place,  a  holy  of  holies,  which  none  but  members  of  a 
lodge  may  enter,  and  is  carefully  guarded. 

The  snakes  used  in  the  dance  are  all  wild,  and  captured 
out  on  the  open  plain.  Four  days  prior  to  the  dance  the 
snake  men,  dressed  in  scanty  attire  and  equipped  with  their 
snake-capturing  paraphernalia,  march  out  in  squads  and  scour 
the  surrounding  country  in  search  of  snakes.  One  day  each 
is  spent  in  searching  the  ground  towards  the  four  points  of 
the  compass,  in  the  order  of  north,  west,  south  and  east,  re- 
turning at  the  close  of  each  day  with  their  catch  to  the  Kiva, 
where  the  snakes  are  kept  and  prepared  for  the  dance.  The 
snakes  caught  are  of  several  varieties,  but  much  the  largest 
number  are  rattlesnakes.  Respect  is  shown  for  serpents  of 
every  variety  and  none  are  ever  intentionally  harmed,  but  the 
rattlesnake  is  considered  the  most  sacred  and  is  proportion- 
ately esteemed.  Its  forked  tongue  represents  lightning,  its 
rattle  thunder  and  its  spots  rain-clouds.  The  number  of 
snakes  they  find  is  surprising,  as  they  catch  from  one  to  two 
hundred  during  the  four  days'  hunt  on  ground  that  might  be 
carefully  searched  by  white  men  for  months  without  finding 
a  single  reptile. 

The  snake  men  are  very  expert  in  catching  and  handling 
serpents,  and  are  seldom  bitten.  If  one  is  bitten  it  is  noth- 
ing serious,  as  they  have  a  secret  medicine  which  they  use 
that  is  both  prophylactic  and  curative,  and  makes  them  im- 
mune to  the  poison  so  that  no  harm  ever  results  from  a  bite. 
The  medicine  is  taken  internally  and  also  applied  locally. 
Efforts  have  been  made  to  discover  its  composition  but  with- 


THE  SNAKE  DANCE  AT  ORAIBI. 


WASHING    CEREMONY,    AFTER    THE    SNAKE    DANCE. 
Photo  by  p.  I.  Mousen, 


THE  MOQUI  INDIANS  201 

out  success.  If  a  snake  is  located  which  shows  fight  by  the 
act  of  coiUng  it  is  tickled  with  a  snake-whip  made  of  eagle's 
feathers,  which  soon  soothes  its  anger  and  causes  it  to  un- 
coil and  try  to  run  away.  It  is  then  quickly  and  safely 
caught  up  and  dropped  from  the  hand  into  a  bag  carried  for 
that  purpose. 

Visitors  who  attend  the  dance  are  under  no  restrictions, 
but  are  free  to  come  and  go  as  they  please,  either  sight- 
seeing or  in  search  of  curios.  If  the  visitor  has  a  supply 
of  candy,  matches  and  smoking-tobacco  to  give  away  he  finds 
frequent  opportunities  to  bestow  his  gifts.  The  children  ask 
for  "  canty,"  the  women  want  "  matchi,"  and  the  men  are 
pleased  with  a  "  smoke." 

On  the  morning  of  the  dance  both  the  men  and  women 
give  their  hair  an  extra  washing  by  using  a  mixture  of  water 
and  crushed  soap-root.  The  white  fibers  of  the  soap-root  get 
mixed  with  the  hair,  which  gives  it  a  tinge  of  iron  gray.  The 
children  also  get  a  bath  which,  because  of  the  great  scarcity 
of  water,  is  not  of  daily  occurrence. 

To  the  Moquis  the  snake  dance  is  a  serious  and  solemn 
affair,  but  to  the  visitors  it  is  apt  to  be  an  occasion  for  fun 
and  frohc.  Owing  to  a  misunderstanding  of  its  true  meaning, 
and  because  of  misconduct  in  the  past  on  similar  occasions, 
notice  is  posted  on  the  Kiva  asking  visitors  to  abstain  from 
loud  laughing  and  talking.  In  other  words  it  is  a  polite  re- 
quest made  by  the  rude  red  man  of  his  polished  (})  white 
brother  to  please  behave  himself. 

The  dance  begins  late  in  the  afternoon  and  lasts  less  than 
one  hour,  but  while  it  is  in  progress  the  action  is  intense. 
The  snakes  are  carried  in  a  bag  or  jar  from  the  Kiva  to  the 
Kisa,  built  of  cotton-wood  boughs  on  one  side  of  the  plaza, 
where  the  snakes  are  handed  out  to  the  dancers.  After 
much  marching  and  countermarching  about  the  plaza,  chant- 


202  ARIZONA  SKETCHES 

ing  weird  songs  and  shaking  rattles,  the  column  of  snake 
priests,  dressed  in  a  fantastic  garb  of  paint,  fur  and  feathers, 
halts  in  front  of  the  Kisa  and  breaks  up  into  groups  of  three. 
The  carrier  takes  a  snake  from  the  Kisa  puts  it  in  his  mouth 
and  carries  it  there  while  dancing.  Some  of  the  more  am- 
bitious young  men  will  carry  two  or  more  of  the  smaller 
snakes  at  the  same  time.  The  hugger  throws  his  left 
arm  over  the  shoulder  of  the  carrier  and  with  his  right  hand 
fans  the  snake  with  his  feather  whip.  The  gatherer  follows 
after  and  picks  up  the  snakes  as  they  fall  to  the  ground. 

After  the  snakes  have  all  been  danced  they  are  thrown  into 
a  heap  and  sprinkled  with  sacred  corn  meal  by  the  young 
women.  The  scattering  of  the  meal  is  accompanied  by  a 
shower  of  spittle  from  the  spectators,  who  are  stationed  on 
convenient  roofs  and  ladders  viewing  the  ceremony.  Fleet 
runners  now  catch  up  the  snakes  in  handfuls  and  dash  off  in 
an  exciting  race  over  the  mesa  and  down  rocky  trails  to  the 
plains  below  where  the  snakes  are  returned  unharmed  to  their 
native  haunts. 

While  the  men  are  away  disposing  of  the  reptiles  the 
women  carry  out  large  ollas,  or  jars,  filled  with  a  black  liquid, 
which  is  the  snake  medicine  that  is  used  in  the  final  act  of 
purification  by  washing.  When  the  men  return  to  the  mesa 
they  remove  their  regalias  and  proceed  to  drink  of  the  snake 
medicine  which  acts  as  an  emetic.  With  the  remainder  of 
the  concoction,  and  assisted  by  the  women,  they  wash  their 
bodies  free  from  paint.  After  the  men  are  all  washed  and 
puked  they  re-enter  the  Kiva,  where  the  long  fast  is  broken  by 
a  feast  and  the  formal  ceremonies  of  the  snake  dance  are 
ended. 

The  snake  dance  is  annually  witnessed  by  many  visitors 
who  gather  from  different  sections  of  the  country  and  even 
foreign  lands.     As  there  are  no  hotels  to  entertain  guests 


THE  MOQUI  INDIANS  205 

every  visitor  must  provide  his  own  outfit  for  conveyance,  eat- 
ing and  sleeping.  Even  water  is  scarce.  Local  springs 
barely  furnish  enough  water  to  supply  the  native  population  ; 
and  when  the  number  of  people  to  be  supplied  is  increased 
from  one  to  two  hundred  by  the  visitors  who  attend  the 
dance,  the  water  question  becomes  a  serious  problem. 

On  the  lower  portion  of  the  road  which  leads  up  from  the 
spring  to  the  gap  at  Walpi  on  the  first  mesa,  the  trail  is 
over  drifted  sand  which  makes  difficult  walking.  To  remedy 
this  defect  in  the  trail,  a  path  has  been  made  of  flat  stones 
laid  in  the  sand,  which  shows  that  the  Moquis  are  quick  to 
recognize  and  utilize  an  advantage  that  contributes  to  their 
convenience  and  comfort. 

The  Santa  Fe  Pacific  is  the  nearest  railroad,  which  runs 
about  one  hundred  miles  south  of  the  Moqui  villages.  The 
tourist  can  secure  transportation  at  reasonable  rates  of  local 
lii^erymen  either  from  Holbrook,  Winslow,  Canon  Diablo  or 
Flagstaff.  The  trip  makes  an  enjoyable  outing  that  is  full 
of  interest  and  instruction  from  start  to  finish. 

Some  years  ago  the  government,  through  its  agents,  began 
to  civilize  and  Christianize  these  Indians  and  established  a 
school  at  Ream's  Canon,  nine  miles  east  of  the  first  mesa, 
for  that  purpose.  When  the  school  was  opened  the  requisi- 
tion for  a  specified  number  of  children  from  each  pueblo  was 
not  filled  until  secured  by  force.  As  free  citizens  of  the 
United  States,  being  such  by  the  treaty  made  with  Mexico 
in  1848  and,  indeed,  already  so  under  a  system  of  self- 
government  superior  to  our  own  and  established  long  before 
Columbus  discovered  America,  they  naturally  resented  any 
interference  in  their  affairs  but,  being  in  the  minority  and 
overpowered,  had  to  submit. 

When  the  object  of  the  school  was  explained  to  them,  they 
consented  to  receive  secular  instructions  but  objected  to  any 


206  ARIZONA  SKETCHES 

religious  teaching.  They  asked  to  have  schools  opened  in 
the  pueblos  on  the  plan  of  our  public  schools  where  the 
children  could  attend  during  the  day  and  return  home  at 
night,  and  their  home  life  be  not  broken  up,  but  their  prayer 
was  denied. 

The  reservation  school  was  opened  for  the  purpose  of 
instructing  the  Moqui  children  in  civilization,  but  the  results 
obtained  have  not  been  entirely  satisfactory.  The  methods 
employed  for  enforcing  discipline  have  been  unnecessarily 
severe  and  have  given  dissatisfaction.  As  recently  as  the 
year  1903  the  children  of  this  inoffensive  and  harmless  peo- 
ple were  forcibly  taken  from  their  homes  and  put  into  the 
schools.  The  time  selected  for  doing  the  dastardly  deed  was 
during  the  night  in  midwinter  when  the  weather  was  cold 
and  the  ground  covered  with  snow.  Under  the  orders  of 
the  superintendent  the  reservation  police  made  the  raid  with- 
out warning  or  warrant  of  any  kind.  While  the  people  slept, 
the  police  entered  their  houses,  dragged  the  little  children 
from  their  comfortable  beds  and  drove  them  naked  out  into 
the  snow  and  cold,  where  they  were  rounded  up  and  herded 
like  cattle. 

The  indignity  and  outrage  of  this  and  other  similar  acts 
have  embittered  the  Moquis  until  they  have  lost  what  little 
respect  they  ever  had  for  Christianity  and  civilization.  The 
policy  of  the  government  is  to  make  them  do  whatever  they 
do  not  want  to  do,  to  break  up  the  family  and  scatter  its 
members.  The  treatment  has  created  two  factions  among 
the  Moquis  known  as  the  "  hostiles  "  who  are  only  hostile  in 
opposing  oppression  and  any  change  in  their  religious  faith 
and  customs  ;  and  the  **  friendlies  "  who  are  willing  to  obey 
the  boss  placed  over  them  and  comply  with  his  demands. 

Religion  is  the  dearest  treasure  of  mankind,  and  when  as- 
sailed always  finds  ready  defenders.     Possessed  by  this  in- 


TOM    POLAKI. 
Photo  by  F.  I.  Monsen. 


ON    THE    MOQUI    TRAIL. 


THE  MOQUI  INDIANS  209 

nate  feeling  of  right  and  rankling  with  the  injustice  of  the 
past,  is  it  surprising  that  they  shouM  spurn  any  proffered 
help  ?  They  remember  what  they  have  suffered  in  the  past 
and  do  not  care  to  repeat  the  experiment.  To  this  day  the 
Moquis  hold  the  mission  epoch  in  contempt  and  nothing 
could  induce  them  to  accept  voluntarily  any  proposition  that 
savored  ought  of  the  old  regime.  Every  vestige  of  that 
period  has  been  obliterated  from  the  pueblos  that  nothing 
tangible  should  remain  to  remind  them  of  their  undeserved 
humiliation. 

They  are  a  highly  religious  people  worshiping  after  their 
own  creed,  and  are  sincere  and  conscientious  in  their  devo- 
tions. Almost  everything  they  do  has  some  religious  signifi- 
cance and  every  day  its  religious  observance.  Their  religion 
satisfies  them  and  harms  no  one,  then  why  not  leave  them  in 
peace  ?  We  believe  that  we  can  benefit  them,  which  is 
doubtless  true,  but  might  they  not  also  teach  us  some  useful 
lessons  ?  It  would  sometimes  be  more  to  our  credit  if  we 
were  less  anxious  to  teach  others,  and  more  willing  to  learn 
ourselves. 

Next  to  their  religion  they  love  their  homes  most.  The 
rocks  upon  which  they  live,  are  they  not  dear  from  associa- 
tions ?  Is  it  not  the  land  of  their  birth  and  the  home  of 
their  fathers  during  many  generations  ?  They  cling  with 
stubborn  tenacity  to  their  barren  mesas  and  nothing  thus  far 
has  succeeded  in  driving  them  away ;  neither  war,  pestilence 
nor  famine.  Repeated  attempts  have  been  made  to  induce 
them  to  leave,  but  without  success. 

Tom  Polaki,  the  principal  man  of  Tewa,  was  the  first  man 
to  respond  to  the  call  to  come  down.  He  left  the  mesa 
several  years  ago,  and  went  to  the  plain  below  to  live.  Hav- 
ing captured  the  bell  wether  it  was  presumed  that  the  balance 
of  the  flock  would  soon  follow,  but  the  contrary  proved  to  be 


210  ARIZONA  SKETCHES 

true.  At  the  foot  of  the  bluff  near  a  spring  on  the  road  that 
leads  up  to  the  gap  Tom  built  a  modern  house  and  tried  to 
imitate  the  white  man.  But  the  change  did  not  suit  him, 
and  after  living  in  his  modern  house  for  a  number  of  years, 
he  finally  sold  it  and  returned  to  his  old  home  on  the  mesa. 
A  few  others  at  different  times  have  tried  the  same  experi- 
ment with  no  better  success.  The  man  would  stay  for  a 
short  time  in  the  house  provided  for  him,  but  never  made  it 
a  permanent  home  for  his  family. 

That  the  Moquis  are  changing  is  best  illustrated  by  refer- 
ence to  one  of  their  marriage  customs.  It  is  the  custom  when 
a  youth  contemplates  matrimony  to  make  a  marriage  blanket. 
He  grows  the  cotton,  spins  the  yarn  and  weaves  the  cloth, 
which  requires  a  year  or  more  of  time  to  finish.  Since  the 
children  have  gone  to  school  it  is  not  deemed  necessary  for 
a  young  man  to  go  to  so  much  trouble  and  expense  as  to 
make  a  marriage  blanket,  but  instead,  he  borrows  one  from 
a  friend  in  the  village,  and  after  the  ceremony  is  over  returns 
it  to  the  owner.  Even  now  it  is  not  easy  to  find  such  a 
blanket,  and  very  soon  they  will  be  priceless  as  no  more 
such  garments  will  be  made. 

The  only  reasonable  explanation  why  any  people  should 
select  a  location  like  that  of  the  Moquis  is  on  the  hypothesis 
of  choice.  There  is  much  of  the  animal  in  human  nature 
that  is  influenced  by  instinct,  and  man,  like  the  brute,  often 
unconsciously  selects  what  is  most  congenial  to  his  nature. 
Thus  instinct  teaches  the  eagle  to  nest  on  the  highest  crag 
and  the  mountain  sheep  to  browse  in  pastures  which  only 
the  hardiest  hunter  dare  approach.  For  no  better  reason, 
apparently,  do  the  Moquis  occupy  their  barren  mesas  ;  they 
simply  prefer  to  live  there  above  any  other  place. 

Safety  has  been  urged  as  a  motive  for  their  conduct  but 
it  alone  is  not  a  sufficient  reason  for  solving  the  problem. 


THE  MOQUI  INDIANS  211 

Their  position  is  safe  enough  from  attack  but  in  the  event 
of  a  siege  their  safety  would  only  be  temporary.  With  their 
scant  water  supply  at  a  distance  and  unprotected  they  could 
not  hold  out  long  in  a  siege,  but  would  soon  be  compelled 
either  to  fight,  fly  or  famish. 

Again,  if  safety  was  their  only  reason  for  staying,  they  could 
have  left  long  ago  and  had  nothing  to  fear,  as  they  have  been 
for  many  years  at  peace  with  their  ancient  enemy  the  pred- 
atory Navajo.  But  rather  than  go  they  have  chosen  to  re- 
main in  their  old  home  where  they  have  always  lived,  and 
will  continue  to  live  so  long  as  they  are  left  free  to  choose. 

The  modern  iconoclast  in  his  unreasonable  devotion  to 
realism  has,  perhaps,  stripped  them  of  much  old  time  romance, 
but  even  with  all  of  that  gone,  enough  of  fact  remains  to  make 
them  a  remarkable  people.  Instead  of  seeking  to  change 
them  this  last  bit  of  harmless  aboriginal  life  should  be  spared 
and  preserved,  if  possible,  in  all  of  its  native  purity  and  sim- 
plicity. 


212  ARIZONA  SKETCHES 


CHAPTER  XIV 


A  FINE  CLIMATE 


THE  climate  of  Arizona  as  described  in  the  local 
vernacular  is  "  sure  fine." 
The  combination  of  elements  which  make  the 
climate  is  unusual  and  cannot  be  duplicated  elsewhere  upon 
the  American  continent.  The  air  is  remarkably  pure  and 
dry.  Siccity,  indeed,  is  its  distinguishing  feature.  That  the 
climate  is  due  to  geographical  and  meteorological  conditions 
cannot  be  doubted,  but  the  effects  are  unexplainable  by  any 
ordinary  rules. 

The  region  involved  not  only  embraces  Arizona,  but  also 
includes  portions  of  California  and  Mexico  and  is  commonly 
known  as  the  Colorado  Desert.  Yuma,  at  the  junction  of 
the  Gila  and  Colorado  rivers,  is  approximately  its  geographical 
center.  The  general  aspect  of  the  country  is  low  and  flat 
and  in  the  Salton  sink  the  dry  land  dips  several  hundred  feet 
below  the  level  of  the  ocean.  Only  by  extreme  siccity  is 
such  land  possible  when  more  water  rises  in  evaporation  than 
falls  by  precipitation.  There  are  but  few  such  places  in  the 
world,  the  deepest  one  being  the  Dead  Sea,  which  is  about 
thirteen  hundred  feet  lower  than  the  ocean. 

The  Colorado  Basin  is  the  dry  bed  of  an  ancient  sea  whose 
shore  line  is  yet  visible  in  many  places  upon  the  sides  of  the 


SAN  FRANCISCO  MOUNTAINS. 


CAMPING  ON  THE  COLORADO  PLATEAU 


A  FINE  CLIMATE  215 

mountains  which  surround  it.  Its  floor  is  composed  of  clay 
with  deposits  of  sand  and  salt.  Strong  winds  sometimes 
sweep  over  it  that  shift  and  pile  up  the  sand  in  great  dunes. 
The  entire  region  is  utterly  bare  and  desolate,  yet  by  the  use 
of  water  diverted  from  the  Colorado  river  it  is  being  reclaimed 
to  agriculture. 

The  rainfall  is  very  scant  the  average  annual  precipita- 
tion at  Yuma  being  less  than  three  inches.  The  climate  is 
not  dry  from  any  lack  of  surface  water,  as  it  has  the  Gila 
and  Colorado  rivers,  the  Gulf  of  California  and  the  broad 
Pacific  Ocean  to  draw  from.  But  the  singular  fact  remains 
that  the  country  is  extremely  dry  and  that  it  does  not  rain  as 
in  other  lands. 

Neither  is  the  rainfall  deficient  from  any  lack  of  evapora- 
tion. Upon  the  contrary  the  evaporation  is  excessive  and 
according  to  the  estimate  of  Major  Powell  amounts  fully  to 
one  hundred  inches  of  water  per  annum.  If  the  vapors  aris- 
ing from  this  enormous  evaporation  should  all  be  condensed 
into  clouds  and  converted  into  rain  it  would  create  a  rainy 
season  that  would  last  throughout  the  year. 

The  humidity  caused  by  an  abundant  rainfall  in  any  low, 
hot  country  is  usually  enough  to  unfit  it  for  human  habita- 
tion. The  combined  effect  of  heat  and  moisture  upon  a  fer- 
tile soil  causes  an  excess  of  both  growing  and  decaying  vege- 
tation that  fills  the  atmosphere  with  noxious  vapors  and 
disease  producing  germs.  The  sultry  air  is  so  oppressive 
that  it  is  more  than  physical  endurance  can  bear.  The  par- 
ticles of  vapor  which  float  in  the  atmosphere  absorb  and  hold 
the  heat  until  it  becomes  like  a  steaming  hot  blanket  that  is 
death  to  unacclimated  life.  All  of  this  is  changed  where  sic- 
city  prevails.  The  rapid  evaporation  quickly  dispels  the  vapors 
and  the  dry  heat  desiccates  the  disease  creating  germs  and 
makes  them  innocuous. 


216  ARIZONA  SKETCHES 

The  effect  of  heat  upon  the  body  is  measured  by  the  dif- 
ference in  the  actual  and  sensible  temperatures,  as  recorded 
by  the  dry  and  wet  bulb  thermometers.  When  both  stand 
nearly  together  as  they  are  apt  to  do  in  a  humid  atmosphere, 
the  heat  becomes  insufferable.  In  the  dry  climate  of  Arizona 
such  a  condition  cannot  occur.  The  difference  in  the  two 
instruments  is  always  great,  often  as  much  as  forty  degrees. 
For  this  reason,  a  temperature  of  ii8°  F.  at  Yuma  is  less 
oppressive  than  98°  F.  is  in  New  York.  A  low  relative 
humidity  gives  comfort  and  freedom  from  sunstroke  even 
when  the  thermometer  registers  the  shade  temperature  in 
three  figures. 

A  dry,  warm  climate  is  a  stimulant  to  the  cutaneous  func- 
tion. The  skin  is  an  important  excreting  organ  that  is  fur- 
nished with  a  large  number  of  sweat  glands  which  are  for 
the  dual  purpose  of  furnishing  moisture  for  cooling  the  body 
by  evaporation  and  the  elimination  of  worn  out  and  waste 
material  from  the  organism.  As  an  organ  it  is  not  easily  in- 
jured by  over  work,  but  readily  lends  its  function  in  an  emer- 
gency in  any  effort  to  reUeve  other  tired  or  diseased  organs  of 
the  body.  By  vicarious  action  the  skin  is  capable  of  perform- 
ing much  extra  labor  without  injury  to  itself  and  can  be  har- 
nessed temporarily  for  the  reUef  of  some  vital  part  which  has 
become  crippled  until  its  function  can  be  restored. 

A  diseased  kidney  depends  particularly  upon  the  skin  for 
succor  more  than  any  other  organ.  When  the  kidneys  from 
any  cause  fail  to  act  the  skin  comes  to  their  rescue  and  throws 
off  impurities  which  nature  intended  should  go  by  the  renal 
route.  For  this  reason  diabetes  and  albuminuria,  the  most 
stubborn  of  all  kidney  diseases,  are  usually  benefited  by  a 
dry,  warm  climate.  The  benefit  derived  is  due  to  an  increase 
of  the  insensible  transpiration  rather  than  to  profuse  perspira- 
tion.    The  air  of  Arizona  is  so  dry  and  evaporation  so  rapid 


DEPOT  HOTEL,  YUMA. 


LAVA  BEDS. 


A  FINE  CLIMATE  219 

that  an  increase  in  perspiration  is  scarcely  noticeable  except 
when  it  is  confined  by  impervious  clothing.  The  disagree- 
able feehng  of  wet  clothes  which  accompanies  profuse  per- 
spiration in  a  damp  climate  is  changed  to  an  agreeable  sensa- 
tion of  coolness  in  a  dry  one. 

The  atmosphere  of  Arizona  is  not  only  dry  but  also  very 
electrical,  so  much  so,  indeed,  that  at  times  it  becomes  al- 
most painful.  Whenever  the  experiment  is  tried,  sparks  can 
be  produced  by  friction  or  the  handling  of  metal,  hair  or 
wool.  It  affects  animals  as  well  as  man,  and  literally  causes 
"  the  hair  to  stand  on  end."  The  writer  has  on  various  oc- 
casions seen  a  string  of  horses  standing  close  together  at  a 
watering-trough,  drinking,  so  full  of  electricity  that  their 
manes  and  tails  were  spread  out  and  floated  in  the  air,  and 
the  long  hairs  drawn  by  magnetic  attraction  from  one  ani- 
mal to  the  other  all  down  the  line  in  a  spontaneous  effort  to 
complete  a  circuit.  There  are  times  when  the  free  electricity 
in  the  air  is  so  abundant  that  every  object  becomes  charged 
with  the  fluid,  and  it  cannot  escape  fast  enough  or  find  "  a 
way  out  "  by  any  adequate  conductor.  The  effects  of  such 
an  excess  of  electricity  is  decidedly  unpleasant  on  the  nerves, 
and  causes  annoying  irritability  and  nervousness. 

The  hot  sun  sometimes  blisters  the  skin  and  burns  the 
complexion  to  a  rich,  nut-brown  color,  but  the  air  always  feels 
soft  and  balmy,  and  usually  blows  only  in  gentle  zephyrs. 
The  air  has  a  pungent  fragrance  which  is  peculiar  to  the  des- 
ert, that  is  the  mingled  product  of  a  variety  of  resinous 
plants.  The  weather  is  uniformly  pleasant,  and  the  elements 
are  rarely  violently  disturbed. 

In  the  older  settled  sections  of  our  country,  whenever 
there  is  any  sudden  or  extreme  change  in  the  weather  of 
either  heat  or  cold,  wet  or  dry,  it  is  always  followed  by  an 
increase  of  sickness  and  death.     The  aged  and  invalid,  who 


220  ARIZONA  SKETCHES 

are  sensitive  and  weak,  suffer  mostly,  as  they  feel  every 
change  in  the  weather.  There  is,  perhaps,  no  place  on  earth 
that  can  boast  of  a  perfect  climate,  but  the  country  that  can 
show  the  fewest  and  mildest  extremes  approaches  nearest  to 
the  ideal.  The  southwest  is  exceptionally  favored  in  its 
chmatic  conditions,  and  is  beneficial  to  the  majority  of  chronic 
invalids. 

Atmospheric  pressure  is  greatest  near  the  earth's  surface, 
and  exerts  a  controlHng  influence  over  the  vital  functions. 
Atmospheric  pressure  is  to  the  body  what  the  governor  is  to 
the  steam  engine,  or  the  pendulum  to  the  clock.  It  regu- 
lates vital  action,  insures  safety  and  lessens  the  wear  and  tear 
of  machinery.  Under  its  soothing  influence  the  number  of 
respirations  per  minute  are  diminished,  the  heart  beats  de- 
creased in  frequency,  and  the  tired  brain  and  nerves  rested. 
It  is  often  better  than  medicine,  and  will  sometimes  give  re- 
lief when  all  other  means  fail. 

Arizona  has  a  diversity  of  altitudes,  and  therefore  furnishes 
a  variety  of  climates.  The  elevations  range  from  about  sea 
level  at  Yuma  to  nearly  thirteen  thousand  feet  upon  the  San 
Francisco  mountains.  By  making  suitable  changes  in  alti- 
tude to  fit  the  season  it  is  possible  to  enjoy  perpetual  spring. 

Because  Arizona  is  far  south  geographically  it  is  only  natu- 
ral to  suppose  that  it  is  all  very  hot,  which  is  a  mistake.  In 
the  low  valleys  of  southern  Arizona  the  summers  are  hot, 
but  it  is  a  dry  heat  which  is  not  oppressive,  and  the  winters 
are  delightfully  pleasant.  In  northern  Arizona  the  winters 
are  cold  and  the  summers  cool.  There  is  no  finer  summer 
climate  in  the  world  than  is  found  on  the  high  plateaus  and 
pine-topped  mountains  of  northern  Arizona.  Prescott,  Wil- 
liams and  Flagstaff  have  a  charming  summer  cHmate,  while 
at  Yuma,  Phoenix  and  Tucson  the  winter  weather  is  simply 
perfect. 


NAVAJO  SHEPHERD. 


A  NAVAJO  COURIER. 


A  FINE  CLIMATE  223 

A  mountain  residence  is  not  desirable  for  thin,  nervous 
people  or  such  as  are  afflicted  with  any  organic  disease.  A  high 
altitude  is  too  stimulating  for  this  class  of  patients  and  tends 
to  increase  nervousness  and  aggravates  organic  disease.  Such 
persons  should  seek  a  coast  climate  and  a  low  altitude,  which 
is  sedative,  rather  than  risk  the  high  and  dry  interior.  Any 
coast  climate  is  better  than  the  mountains  for  nervous  people, 
but  the  Pacific  Coast  is  preferable  to  any  other  because  of 
its  freedom  from  electrical  storms  and  every  other  form  of 
disagreeable  meteorological  disturbance  that  tries  the  nerves. 

The  nervousness  that  is  produced  by  a  high  altitude  does 
not,  as  a  rule,  develop  suddenly,  but  grows  gradually  upon 
the  patient.  Those  of  a  sensitive  nature  feel  it  most  and 
women  more  than  men.  After  making  a  change  from  a  low 
to  a  high  altitude  sleep  may  be  sound  for  a  time,  but  it  soon 
becomes  fitful  and  unrefreshing. 

It  has  been  discovered  that  altitude  increases 
of  hemoglobulin  and  thus  enriches  the  blood  and  is  particul- 
arly beneficial  to  pale,  thin  people.  It  also  sharpens  the 
appetite  and  promotes  digestion  and  assimilation. 

Persons  suffering  from  rheumatism,  neuralgia,  advanced 
pulmonary  consumption,  organic  heart  disease  and  all  disor- 
ders of  the  brain  and  nerves  should  avoid  a  high  altitude. 
Patients  that  are  afflicted  with  any  of  the  above-mentioned 
diseases  are  more  comfortable  in  a  low  altitude  and  should 
choose  between  the  coast  of  California  and  the  low,  dry  lands 
of  the  lower  Gila  and  Colorado  rivers,  according  to  the  season 
of  the  year  and  the  quality  of  climate  desired. 

The  diseases  which  are  especially  benefited  by  the  climate 
of  Arizona  are  consumption,  bronchitis,  catarrh  and  hay 
fever.  Anyone  going  in  search  of  health  who  has  improved 
by  the  change  should  remain  where  the  improvement  took 
place  lest  by  returning  home  and  being  again  subjected  to 


'■\^MP 


224  ARIZONA  SKETCHES 

the  former  climatic  conditions  which  caused  the  disease  the 
improvement  be  lost  and  the  old  disease  re-established  with 
increased  severity. 

Most  sick  people  who  are  in  need  of  a  change  live  in  a 
humid  atmosphere  where  the  winters  are  extremely  cold 
and  the  summers  uncomfortably  hot,  and  to  be  benefited  by 
a  change  must  seek  a  climate  in  which  the  opposite  condi- 
tions prevail.  The  climate  of  the  southwest  furnishes  just 
what  such  invalids  require.  The  sick  who  need  cold  or 
damp  weather,  if  there  be  any  such,  can  be  accomodated 
almost  anywhere,  but  those  who  want  a  warm,  dry  climate 
must  go  where  it  can  be  found.  Not  every  invalid  who  goes 
in  search  of  health  finds  a  cure,  as  many  who  start  on  such 
a  journey  are  already  past  help  when  they  leave  home.  When 
a  case  is  hopeless  the  patient  should  not  undertake  such  a 
trip,  but  remain  quietly  at  home  and  die  in  peace  among 
friends. 

As  already  intimated  the  climate  of  the  Colorado  basin  is 
ideal  in  winter,  but  becomes  very  hot  in  summer.  Its  low 
altitude,  rainless  days,  cloudless  skies  and  balmy  air  form  a 
combination  that  is  unsurpassed  and  is  enjoyed  by  all  either 
sick  or  well.  The  heat  of  summer  does  not  create  sickness, 
but  becomes  monotonous  and  tiresome  from  its  steady  and 
long  continuance.  Many  residents  of  the  Territory  who  tire 
of  the  heat  and  can  afford  the  trip  take  a  vacation  during  the 
summer  months  and  either  go  north  to  the  Grand  Canon  and 
the  mountains  or  to  the  Pacific  Coast.  Every  summer  wit- 
nesses a  hegira  of  sun  baked  people  fleeing  from  the  hot 
desert  to  the  mountains  or  ocean  shore  in  search  of  coolness 
and  comfort. 

Life  in  the  tropics,  perhaps,  inclines  to  indolence  and  lan- 
guor, particularly  if  the  atmosphere  is  humid,  but  in  a  dry 
climate  like  that  of  Arizona  the  heat,  although  sometimes 


WINNER  OF  THE  FOOT  RACE. 


STREET    SCENE    IN    OLD    TUCSON. 


A  FINE  CLIMATE  227 

great,  is  never  oppressive  or  debilitating.  It  has  its  lazy- 
people  like  any  other  country  and  for  the  same  reason  that 
there  are  always  some  who  were  bom  tired  and  never  outgrow 
the  tired  feeling,  but  Arizona  climate  is  more  bracing  than 
enervating. 

The  adobe  house  of  the  Mexican  is  a  peculiar  institution 
of  the  southwest.  It  may  be  interesting  on  account  of  its 
past  history,  but  it  is  certainly  not  pretty.  It  is  nothing 
more  than  a  box  of  dried  mud  with  its  roof,  walls  and  floor 
all  made  of  dirt.  It  is  never  free  from  a  disagreeable  earthy 
smell  which,  if  mingled  with  the  added  odors  of  stale  smoke 
and  filth,  as  is  often  the  case,  makes  the  air  simply  vile.  The 
house  can  never  be  kept  tidy  because  of  the  dirt  which  falls 
from  the  adobe,  unless  the  walls  and  ceilings  are  plastered 
and  whitewashed,  which  is  sometimes  done  in  the  better  class 
of  houses.  If  the  house  is  well  built  it  is  comfortable  enough 
in  pleasant  weather,  but  as  often  as  it  rains  the  dirt  roof 
springs  a  leak  and  splashes  water  and  mud  over  everything. 
If  by  chance  the  house  stands  on  low  ground  and  is  sur- 
rounded by  water,  as  sometimes  happens,  after  a  heavy  rain 
the  walls  become  soaked  and  dissolved  into  mud  when  the 
house  collapses.  The  adobe  house  may  have  been  suited  to 
the  wants  of  a  primitive  people,  but  in  the  present  age  of  im- 
provement, it  is  scarcely  worth  saving  except  it  be  as  a  relic 
of  a  vanishing  race. 

In  order  to  escape  in  a  measure  the  discomforts  of  the 
midday  heat  the  natives  either  seek  the  shade  in  the  open  air 
where  the  breeze  blows,  or,  what  is  more  common,  close  up 
tight  the  adobe  house  in  the  morning  and  remain  indoors  un- 
til the  intense  heat  from  the  scorching  sun  penetrates  the 
thick  walls,  which  causes  the  inmates  to  move  out.  In  the 
cool  of  the  evening  they  visit  and  transact  business  and  when 
the  hour  comes  for  retiring  go  to  bed  on  cots  made  up  out  of 


228  ARIZONA  SKETCHES 

doors  where  they  sleep  until  morning,  while  the  house  is  left 
open  to  cool  off  during  the  night.  This  process  is  repeated 
every  day  during  the  hot  summer  months  and  is  endured 
without  complaint. 

The  natives,  also,  take  advantage  of  the  dry  air  to  operate 
a  novel  method  of  refrigeration.  The  cloth  covered  army 
canteen  soaked  in  water  and  the  handy  water  jug  of  the 
eastern  harvest  field  wrapped  in  a  wet  blanket  are  familiar 
examples  of  an  ineffectual  attempt  at  refrigeration  by  evapora- 
tion. But  natural  refrigeration  find  its  bests  illustration  in 
the  arid  regions  of  the  southwest  by  the  use  of  an  olla,  which 
is  a  vessel  made  of  porous  pottery,  a  stout  canvas  bag  or  a 
closely  woven  Indian  basket.  A  suitable  vessel  is  selected, 
filled  with  water  and  suspended  somewhere  in  midair  in  the 
shade.  If  it  is  hung  in  a  current  of  air  it  is  all  the  better,  as 
any  movement  of  the  atmosphere  facilitates  evaporation.  A 
slow  seepage  of  water  filters  through  the  open  pores  of  the 
vessel  which  immediately  evaporates  in  the  dry  air  and  lowers 
the  temperature.  The  water  in  the  olla  soon  becomes  cold 
and  if  properly  protected  will  remain  cool  during  the  entire 
day. 

The  dry  air  also  acts  as  a  valuable  preservative.  During 
the  winter,  when  the  weather  is  cool  but  not  freezing,  if  fresh 
meat  is  hung  out  in  the  open  air,  it  will  keep  sweet  a  long 
time.  A  dry  crust  soon  forms  upon  its  surface  which  her- 
metically seals  the  meat  from  the  air  and  keeps  it  perfectly 
sweet.  In  the  summer  it  is  necessary  to  dry  the  meat  more 
quickly  to  keep  it  from  spoiling.  It  is  then  made  into 
** jerky"  by  cutting  it  into  long,  thin  strips  and  hanging 
them  up  in  the  sun  to  dry.  After  it  is  thoroughly  dried,  it  is 
tied  up  in  bags  and  used  as  needed,  either  by  eating  it  dry 
from  the  pocket  when  out  on  a  tramp,  or,  if  in  camp,  serving 
it  in  a  hot  stew. 


A  FINE  CLIMATE  229 

Even  the  carcass  of  a  dead  animal  that  is  left  exposed 
upon  the  ground  to  decompose,  does  not  moulder  away  by 
the  usual  process  of  decay,  but  what  is  left  of  the  body  after 
the  hungry  buzzards  and  coyotes  have  finished  their  feast, 
dries  up  into  a  mummy  that  lasts  for  years. 

Climate  everywhere  unquestionably  influences  life  in  its 
evolution,  but  it  is  not  always  easy  to  determine  all  of  its 
effects  in  detail.  In  Arizona,  which  is  but  a  comparatively 
small  corner  of  our  country,  live  several  races  of  men  that 
are  as  different  from  each  other  as  nature  could  make  them, 
yet  all  live  in  the  same  climate. 

The  Pueblo  Indian  is  in  a  manner  civilized,  peaceable  and 
industrious.  He  is  brave  in  self-defense,  but  never  seeks  war 
nor  bloodshed.  Quite  different  is  his  near  neighbor,  the 
bloodthirsty  Apache,  who  seems  to  delight  only  in  robbing 
and  kiUing  people.  Cunning  and  revenge  are  pronounced 
traits  of  his  character  and  the  Government  has  found  him 
difficult  to  conquer  or  control.  The  Mexican  leads  a  shift- 
less, thriftless  life  and  seems  satisfied  merely  to  exist.  He 
has,  unfortunately,  inherited  more  of  the  baser  than  the  bet- 
ter qualities  of  his  ancestors,  and,  to  all  appearance,  is  des- 
tined to  further  degenerate.  The  American  is  the  last  comer 
and  has  already  pushed  civilization  and  commerce  into  the 
remotest  corners  and,  as  usual,  dominates  the  land. 

As  diverse  as  are  these  several  races  in  many  respects, 
each  one  of  them  furnishes  splendid  specimens  of  physical 
manhood.  The  Indian  has  always  been  noted  for  his  fine 
physique,  and  is  large  bodied,  well  muscled  and  full  chested. 
One  advantage  which  the  southwest  has  over  other  countries 
is  that  the  climate  is  mild  and  favorable  to  an  outdoor  life, 
which  is  conducive  to  health  and  physical  development. 

No  single  race  of  men  flourish  equally  well  everywhere, 
but  each  one  is  affected  by  its  own  surroundings ;  and,  what 


230  ARIZONA  SKETCHES 

is  true  of  a  race,  is  also  true  of  an  individual.  The  pioneer 
in  any  country  is  always  an  interesting  character,  but  he  dif- 
fers in  peculiarities  according  to  his  environment  of  moun- 
tain, plain  or  forest.  Occupation  also  exerts  an  influence 
and  in  time  develops  distinct  types  like  the  trapper,  miner, 
soldier  and  cowboy,  that  only  the  graphic  pencil  of  a  Rem- 
ington can  accurately  portray.  The  eccentricities  of  charac- 
ter which  are  sometimes  met  in  men  who  dwell  on  the  fron- 
tier are  not  always  due  alone  to  disposition,  but  are  largely 
the  product  of  the  wild  life  which  they  live,  that  inclined 
them  to  be  restless,  reckless  and  even  desperate. 

There  is  no  better  field  for  observing  and  studying  the 
effects  of  environment  upon  human  life  than  is  furnished  by 
the  arid  region  of  the  southwest. 


:;iM 


